Clutch questions
Clutch questions
Hi
Did the sachs2.5 clutch but kept my dual mass fw, the shop did say that the fw wasnt great. I didnt have any noticable issues prior to the upgrade so I decided to just keep the fw as is.
But with the new clutch I have an annoying issue, clutch engagement is "uneven" and its worse if I reverse.
Is this just my fw or is there something else that can explain this?
I dont want to pay for labour and new fw and still have issues...
Did the sachs2.5 clutch but kept my dual mass fw, the shop did say that the fw wasnt great. I didnt have any noticable issues prior to the upgrade so I decided to just keep the fw as is.
But with the new clutch I have an annoying issue, clutch engagement is "uneven" and its worse if I reverse.
Is this just my fw or is there something else that can explain this?
I dont want to pay for labour and new fw and still have issues...
Hi
Did the sachs2.5 clutch but kept my dual mass fw, the shop did say that the fw wasnt great. I didnt have any noticable issues prior to the upgrade so I decided to just keep the fw as is.
But with the new clutch I have an annoying issue, clutch engagement is "uneven" and its worse if I reverse.
Is this just my fw or is there something else that can explain this?
I dont want to pay for labour and new fw and still have issues...
Did the sachs2.5 clutch but kept my dual mass fw, the shop did say that the fw wasnt great. I didnt have any noticable issues prior to the upgrade so I decided to just keep the fw as is.
But with the new clutch I have an annoying issue, clutch engagement is "uneven" and its worse if I reverse.
Is this just my fw or is there something else that can explain this?
I dont want to pay for labour and new fw and still have issues...
Before you do anything else if the brake and clutch hydraulic systems share fluid have the brake and clutch fluid flushed and bled. While the brakes probably won't show any improvement the clutch's action could show dramatic improvement, based on my experience with one of my cars.
Brake/clutch fluid be flushed/bleed every 2 years regardless of miles.
If the brake and clutch hydraulic systems do not share fluid if the clutch system can be bled, is supposed to be bled periodically, have this done.
If the clutch action is still uneven then the clutch is probably grabbing. This can be due to a flywheel that got overheated and from this develops hard spots. These hard spots have a different coefficient of friction so the clutch's engagement is uneven.
This is often worse in reverse because the reverse gear is not as low as 1st and it generally requires more clutch slipping when moving the car backwards.
The only cure for a grabby clutch I know of is to remove the transmission and the flywheel and resurface the flywheel if it is still basically good -- if not then it has to be replaced -- and possibly replace the clutch disc and pressure plate if they need to be replaced. In fact if either one needs replacing I'd just replace the entire clutch hardware with new. This includes the release bearing and any other hardware "in there" that needs replacing at clutch time. (For instance the 996 Turbo's the clutch control shaft needle bearings should be replaced.)
Thanks, the car is a 997.1 tt, but when doing some work on her I realised that the workshop had not connected the air tubing after the MAF housing, so it ran crappy especially at low rpms.
But your experience just reinforces the saying: Last thing touched is the first thing suspected.
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