the engine red warning light on my 1996 911 stays on. I've had it in the shop five or six times. air flow problem I'm told. engine must be pulled to correct they say. Must be a better way.

 

Lee, What light are you refering to? The engine temp? oil pressure? belt warning lamp? If the engine is actually running hot and has an air flow problem, the first and easiest thing to do is remove the alternator and see if there is something that is blocking the cylinders, possilble a rag or roddent nest (very common). The intake manifold and shroud can be removed with the engine in the car if that becomes necessary. I would also check to make sure the external oil thermostat is opening. The oil temp can go very high if that is the situation. Make sure the oil cooler fan is operating also. Good luck. Thom

 

Thank you Thom! This is the report I got the first time I took the car in. Verified dtc at secondary air bank. Checked switch over valvevalve ok. Determined plugged parts on heads. Possible too much playon valve guides. To start, needs to remove and disassembled engine to determine the plugging of cylinder heads. At the moment customer decline. I declined because they said it would cost $15,000 to $20,000 to remove and disassemble the engine. I have been driving the car for a year since I got that bad news. The car drives as if there is nothing wrong with it. It's just that CHECK ENGINE red light bugs the hell out of me. I have had it in the shop several times since the first time, the light stays off for a week and returns again. Here is what was done the last two times. Stored fault memory for voltage (abs), misfire (chedk engine). Found alternator belt broken, jammed under a/cbelt. Replaced all three belts w/ alternator pulley halves, adjusted as nec. - also noted tension sensor damaged by broken belt, replaced as nec. Had the car for a week and the engine light back. Next time -- Stored fault memory for secondary air injection system, both cylinder banks. Performed short test, pump activates ok, no air flow to either cylinder bank (02 levels remain static when pumps cycles). Replaced one way check valve and switchover valve for air system (both carbon fouled and corroded to engine), injected compressed air through passageways to test flow (no obvious obstruction, could hear air going through engine); reassembled and re-ran system short tests, 02 sensors now registering airflow into exhaust. Noted flow to cylinder bank #2 slower to register than bank #1, probably cause carbon blockage inside passageways in heads, If faults returns (probably for bank #2 only), will be nec to remove heads, clean passageways, and replace valve guides for permanent repair. A week later it was back. I've spent a lot of money ($2434.00), but that CHECK ENGING light is still there. HELP!

 

Lee, First thing is to make sure that the dtc is the same as before. It is possible the light is on for some other fault code. If it is due to the air injection again, you may need to have the valve quides replaced. There is no way this should cost $15,000 to $20,000. That is way out of line. I would say somewhere in the $7000 range is more realistic. It is sometimes possible to get the ports clean using GM engine top cleaner. The check valve is removed and the top cleaner is pored in the tubes. This does not always work, but it is possible. You didn't say if this is a turbo or not. Turbo prices would be higher than the non turbo. Also the check engine light should be yellow not red. If you are the original owner and the milage is low enough, you might consider contacting PCNA and see if they will assist in the repair. Can't hurt to ask. Also did your car qualify for the harness recall? That would be the time to try the "engine top cleaner" if it wasn't done yet. Good luck.