Bah.. Porsche designed this car for "drivers". I doubt the engineers that designed it would be worried that it can be pushed too hard. I would think that even if you drive it real hard within the first few hundred miles as long as you serviced it appropriately Porsche would give you a hard time. Granted new parts do need to wear in a little before being heavily abused but a few hundred miles is all that takes. Really its the heat cycles that break everything in. I did a road trip from Omaha to Chicago for clear bra install and took it easy during the road trip manually shifting PDK so I wasn't always at one RPM- after that pedal to the floor in Sport Plus. I'm doing another track day next weekend... hopefully the new set of tires will last longer than 5 hours this time.....

 

may i ask a simple&stupid question, do we need to change oil after break in period completed or just wait for service alert?

 

Depends who you ask.... and how hard you drive it. My car took a hell of a beating on the race track so I figured for $200 its worth giving it new oil. I think its more of a preference more than anything. After significant hard driving... I'd recommend it. Keep in mind for 5-6 hours my car was shifting at the rev limiter and not a second before. I was also holding 6K RPM in corners so...

 

My salesman recommended cutting the oil change interval in half if you track the car. Don't know how knowledgeable he his though....

 

Did you really only pay $200 for the oil change?

ChuckJ

 

Yea.. it was like $200.00. Too much? What do they normally run? First time Porsche owner? My old C63 was usually $300.00 for service (oil change).

 

Here's my opinion on break in...and its ONLY my opinion.....

Break in is about heat cycling parts so new "metal" seats properly- and that goes for the whole car. There are several things you must always do:

1. Let the entire car warm up before "getting on it". That includes the drive train.

2. When beating on it significantly- when your done don't just shut it off. Let it idle for a few minutes so all the fluids can naturally cool. For example- every time I got off the track; I let the car idle for 10 minutes before shutting it off so the oils naturally cooled and it wasn't just cooling off with no lubrication flowing through the parts.

3. "Miles" aren't as important as proper heat cycling. In the beginning when new, always warm the entire car up (chassis, motor, brakes, etc) slowly to full temp, then always let it cool all the way off. Short drives aren't necessarily good for this because the chassis may not always get to temp.

4. Never hold an RPM for a long period of time. If on the freeway, manually shift gears so you are always at a different RPM after a few minutes and don't worry about getting to the rev limiter- its a rev limiter for a reason... to protect the motor. Even at 80 miles on the ODO.... I hit the limiter here and there.

5. Change the fluids more often and service early if you drive the car hard when its new. Drive hard = constant high RPM and high speed. Tooling around town and using launch control once doesn't = hard driving. Holding the RPM at 6,000 on every corner does though.

I don't think there is such a thing as a "right" way to break in a car. I think you should treat it just like you do your body. If your running for an hour at the gym... you do a cool down walk right?

Just my $0.02

 

I agree with 911...Omaha

I did all he said when I got my new engine including an oil change after the first hard track weekend. I went to an indy and it cost only $100 around 3 years ago.

 

I paid $229 for my 2009S last time I changed it at Park Place in Dallas and they tell me that the 991 is about the same.

ChuckJ

 

I know Porsche has the ability to see over rev's like I was able to on my 2008 997 with the diagnostic tool but are they actually able to see how you broke the car and what rpm's were hit prior to hitting redline or over rev's ?

 

what an imagery! She's definitely hot hot hot!

 

I bought my 2007 used and wanted to know if it had been mistreated. The chief tech that took care of my car showed me one day how he could check RPMs / miles. Fortunately, they found only level one overruns.

ChuckJ

 

I guess an advantage to the PDK is that it won't let the driver go past red-line.

 

I think I remember you can get level 1 infringement and I'm not sure if that's all, but that's the basic idea (assuming everything is working properly).

ChuckJ

 

I have the Durametric diagnostic tool (for my old 997) which tells you about the over-rev's so I am familiar with what your are talking about. I am just wondering if the Dealer can tell how much you have revved normally ...

For example let's say you hit 6500 rpm when you only have 300 miles on your car, is the dealer able to tell this and can they use this information that you didn't properly break in your car to deny a warranty.