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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:41 PM
  #16  
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I always do my major paint correction work in the winter. Warm metal and waxes don't mix so I would recommend doing your hard core stuff in the winter while your child is put away and then touch up work (clay and spray wax) during warmer months.
 
Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by FLAT6KING
I always do my major paint correction work in the winter. Warm metal and waxes don't mix so I would recommend doing your hard core stuff in the winter while your child is put away and then touch up work (clay and spray wax) during warmer months.
Personally I wouldn't want to be working on my paint if it's colder than 50 degrees. Heat isn't the enemy as much as humidity - which is usually a problem in south Florida where I live, so that's somewhat geo dependant. Given good washing & drying technique, you probably don't have to compound unless really necessary and polish not more than 1x-2x a year.
 

Last edited by addysdaddy; Feb 18, 2014 at 07:50 PM.
Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by addysdaddy
Personally I wouldn't want to be working on my paint if it's colder than 50 degrees. Heat isn't the enemy as much as humidity - which is usually a problem in south Florida where I live.
Oh, I'm talking about inside my garage. Ha ha too damn cold to do that kind of work outside here in Sibeiriatlanta. It was 74 today, 5 days ago we were iced over. Lovely.
 
Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:51 PM
  #19  
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BTW invest in some good LED lighting so you can see properly in your garage.
 
Old Feb 18, 2014 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by FLAT6KING
BTW invest in some good LED lighting so you can see properly in your garage.
Agreed, and I use a Brinkmann Inspection Light to evaluate paint condition and to spot any scratches or swirls that need correcting. Can't have to much light in the garage.
 
Old Feb 18, 2014 | 08:33 PM
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I ended up using Opti-Coat 2.0 on my Platinum Satin wheels. I was nervous about messing up the Satin finish by putting a coating on the wheels. I tested the inside lip to see how it looked prior to doing the rest of the wheel. It turned a tiny shade darker, but didn't change the sheen. Being a relatively permanent coating, I shouldn't have to mess with it again. It beads water well and helps keep the dust from bonding.

I pressure wash dirt and rotors with my Kranzle Pressure washer, spray with Sonax, and let sit.

I use these tools:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?...de=ACCESSORIES

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Wheel...Kit_p_721.html

Hose off, use Adam's APC on the tires, hose off again.

Just before blow drying the car I use this awesome stuff to help with the rust.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Hydes...per_p_947.html
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 02:02 AM
  #22  
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Great info. Seems like there is lots of good stuff out there to use.
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Money2536
I ended up using Opti-Coat 2.0 on my Platinum Satin wheels. I was nervous about messing up the Satin finish by putting a coating on the wheels. I tested the inside lip to see how it looked prior to doing the rest of the wheel. It turned a tiny shade darker, but didn't change the sheen. Being a relatively permanent coating, I shouldn't have to mess with it again. It beads water well and helps keep the dust from bonding.

I pressure wash dirt and rotors with my Kranzle Pressure washer, spray with Sonax, and let sit.

I use these tools:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks

http://www.swissvax.us/merchant.mvc?...de=ACCESSORIES

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Wheel...Kit_p_721.html

Hose off, use Adam's APC on the tires, hose off again.

Just before blow drying the car I use this awesome stuff to help with the rust.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Hydes...per_p_947.html
Another autogeek - a man after my own heart.
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by addysdaddy
Another autogeek - a man after my own heart.
Speaking of Autogeek. I was just down in Stuart taking Mike's 2-day pro detailing class at Autogeek's warehouse. It was pretty awesome.
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 06:01 AM
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That's awesome. Mike P is the man - no doubt of that. Wish I knew what he's forgotten. haha. Anyway, I've considered taking the class since I'm only about 1 hour south of their offices, but I've learned so much from reading, Mike & Nick that I feel pretty good about taking care of my two cars. I've driven up there before and Nick has inspected my paint (with a Brinkmann) and gave his blessing, so I know I'm on the right track. And once you got the paint swirl free, it's a matter of good maintenance. But I've heard the class is terrific.
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 08:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kosmo69
my method:
1. wait for wheels to cool
2. hose off loose debris
3. spray foam wheel cleaner- I use Griots. Sonax and Ps21 are good but too expensive
4. clean barrel- I use daytona wheel brush
5. clean outer wheel- I use a cleaning pad that fits over my hand
6. spray on wheel protectant- I use Armor All wheel protectant
Something to keep in mind: Wheel and tire cleaners/protectors (i.e. Armor All) can contaminate your brake pucks. Apply judiciously. . .
 
Old Feb 19, 2014 | 10:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by addysdaddy
That's awesome. Mike P is the man - no doubt of that. Wish I knew what he's forgotten. haha. Anyway, I've considered taking the class since I'm only about 1 hour south of their offices, but I've learned so much from reading, Mike & Nick that I feel pretty good about taking care of my two cars. I've driven up there before and Nick has inspected my paint (with a Brinkmann) and gave his blessing, so I know I'm on the right track. And once you got the paint swirl free, it's a matter of good maintenance. But I've heard the class is terrific.
I took the class and learned a few cool tips and tricks, but I used it more of a confirmation that I have been doing the right stuff. I sure wish I took a class like that ten years ago. It would have save me a look of trial, error, and cash.
 
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