How about PAGID Grey?
RS-15 Gray - Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes.
How this will work in our cars?

 

Resurrecting this old thread.

All of you experiencing fade and shuddering, are you ending up with dark brown calipers? Mine are complete burnt and brown. I use Pagid orange or black, SRF and GT3 cooling ducts.

 

Are you using the stock Big Reds? Some folks have noticed the "Porsche" lettering turning yellow which is a sign of your set up heating up too much. I run Yellows in front and Oranges in back with Cup ducts and ATE on OEM rotors and have had good luck. I used Oranges in front before and got pad transfer causing alot of shuddering that couldn't be cleared with several hard braking sessions. However, that was before the cup ducts so not sure if I kept the oranges, whether that would've helped with the issue.

Have your shop paint on this ceramic paint stuff in different temp gradients before you go to the track next time...they can tell how hot the rotors get by the color of the paint that remains.

 

I am using stock Big Reds. I'm WAAAAY past the yellowing of the letters and now the calipers are literally brown. Not very pleasing to the eye. Depending on the track I also experience significant fade, not just shuddering. I just added the GT3 ducts so I think I'll try the Yellow's and see what happens.

 

Try the Yellow RS29's. I found those to be much better than Orange's or Blacks. Last longer, etc... My stock big reds, even with GT3 brake ducts and extra cooling added to my TechArt front bumper they turned brown very quickly, actually caught on fire one time when they first opened the 3.1 at MSR (being from Highland Village I assume that is the track you go to most), etc. When I switched to the 997 GT3 brake kit it was much better. You may need to upgrade the Turbo brakes considering how heavy the car is... Or, change your driving style which is no fun

 

Thanks. Who do you get your RS29's from?

Yep, MSR is one of the tracks I go to. It was the 3.1 that first showed the standard brakes weaknesses. But it was Eagles Canyon that completely overwhelmed them. I had to flush my brakes overnight with SRF just so I could get partial run sessions out of them and even then they were gone way before the end of the session.

I've since added the GT3 ducts and hopefully the Yellows will be better at handling the heat then the Blacks were even if they don't stop quite as well.

 

Oranges are JUNK GARBAGE CRAP for track use on a 996TT.

Why?
1) Pad transfer.
2) High wear rate
3) 996TT brakes are too small (! yes) and do not have the thermal capacity to handle the use of a weker pad such as the Oranges

Get Pagid Yellows as mentioned above, I got mine at www.Rennstore.com; Craig will answer your questions with a depth of knowledge and easy conversation - and great prices.

Plese do not make the mistake of using anything else.
Ive BTDT with my GT2, GT3 and now the 996TT.

 

+1 ... Hey Turbo, how do you REALLY feel?

Agree totally with the yellows being the best option...I have racing fluid, Cup Ducts and Yellows on stock rotors. I am running in Black in some events, white in others and have not had any issues although if I advance a bit more, the brakes will need upgrading I would imagine since the car is way too heavy (either that or start ripping crap out). I have been braking harder and quicker/shorter lately which seems to work out well in preserving function - also try not to go too crazy on shorter tracks where there is less time between corners to cool the brakes.

 

What fluid?

 

I upgraded to the 6 piston GT3 brakes with 997TT 350mm discs at all 4 corners. The system does control the car's weight better. I also use Pagid yellows up front with Pagid blacks on the rears to help with front to rear brake bias. The stock front rotors degrade quickly and I think this coming season I will try some AP slotted front rotors with aluminium hats. Anyone else use these? Coleman Brothers is also an option.

 

Turbo...brake fluid was what I was referring to.

 

this is spot on. once you are really driving hard the bottom line is the turbo is too heavy and the brakes too small, period. the calipers change color do to the heat and anyone who tracks their TT will experience that.

my brake set up can be found elsewhere, but includes BIGGER rotors and calipers and guess what they stay red even at night with the rotors glowing red.




old vs new calipers

 

Tom & Larry - EXACTLY.

And exactly the changes I've made to mine - identical to Larry, right down to the pad choice.

ZERO problems and never expect any, ever again.

 

then you are already ahead of the curve!! congrats and nice to see another guy on the forum adding info and experience about track driving

 

Been doing track days for quite a few years with a ton of different Porsches.
Hate to see internet BS / baloney get in the way of practical, real world things that WORK LIKE THEY OUGHT TO.

These bloody cars weigh 3,400 lbs!