I use ATE blue. My car tech says that Motul is equal in performance to the ATE, but costs more.

 

Your tech is wrong -- they are in fact very close though.

The problem I (and many others) have experienced with Motul is that it loves to wick up moisture and requires you flush it on a more frequent basis than some others.

Boiling points of various fluids (higher is better).

Fluid DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
Motul Racing 600 585 421

 

When it comes down to it, no one will really notice a difference unless the vehicle is tracked for a significant amount of time. Most of us will probably get pad fade before we will get BF boiling.

 

Actually odds are you will notice -- and the fluid is more likely to boil before anything else gives.

 

I got BF boiling before pad fade at Watkins Glen.

Switched to SRF and it never happened again. I'd recommend bleeding the old fluid out of the ABS unit when changing to SRF.

 

Here i flush all cars at service intervals w/ ATE Super Blue- for track cars, for MOST people, it works fine and boiling point is 14 to 65 degrees less that the much more expensive motul or castrol and it doesn't have silicone. For those that ARE getting boiling before pad fade and you run your car that agressively, a good racing brake duct set up i think should see you brake temps come down well below SBR max. Your rotors will last longer and will be perfect with a set of sport or racing pads (Pagid for instance).

 

Please check out our website for some good info on fluid, bleeding, etc.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/brakefluid1a.htm