any special tools to do brakes
 

I am thinking about changing my own rotors and pads on my 2002 996TT
I have never done them before on a Porsche, done many on other vehicles thou.
Is this smart? Do I need any special tools? Do the calipers push in with clamp or do I need a special tool to turn them in.

Thanks :)

here's what i needed
 

I upgraded to the UMW brakes (which are incredible on the track) and needed:

A 10mm Hex key (old caliper bolts)
A T55 Torx bit (new caliper bolts)
A flare end wrench 10mm
Anti Seize compound


good diy on either rennlist or renntech, can't remember which

dave

do calipers just push in with clamp?? or turn in with tool

I think Dave has covered everything....I fitted my big brakes (UMW sourced) just before Christmas....yes pistons just push back.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...1/P1010119.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y52...1/P1010118.jpg

Since you're not replacing calipers, this job is very easy. The only other items not listed that I'd recommend are some long Zip ties (You'll use these to hold up the caliper and zip it to a suspension point while removing the rotor) and a piston compression tool from any parts store:

http://rover.ebay.com/ar/1/711-53200...4&toolid=10001 http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7317A-Disc-Brake-Caliper/dp/B0002SQUJK/ref=pd_bbs_11?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1230815088& sr=8-11

That is a nicer version of the one I have and if you do a lot of your own work, it will pay for itself over time.

Just remember not to let the calipers "hang" suspended from the brake hose. The stress can cause the line to fail and leak... If the master cylinder is to full, you might have to remove some of the brake fluid. The reason for this is simple... If you push the pistons back into the caliper, that fluid has to go somewhere. You can create a bit of a mess in the trunk, so to avoid that, just remove some fluid... You can "dab a rag" into the master to draw out some fluid, (be careful not to get any on the paint) or use a mityvac tool like the one listed below!

http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp

This is also a good time to bleed your brake system, and I'd also recommend a decent clear catch bottle and of course the Motiv brake bleeder... You can buy every tool you'll need to do your brakes for less than $200, and you'll be set for life! FYI, Pelicanparts sells all of the tools I just mentioned or linked...
Mike

Thanks guys that was definatley helpful. I feel very comfortable now after that info in doing them my self...
is this the bleeder you are talking about?
http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Do I have to make sure and put in the exact brake fluid caus I have no idea what the old guy used...

o i just saw the link to the vacumm system u are talking about. same idea thou?

The Motive brake bleeder works great....as Mike mentioned, catch bottles are needed. I used the ones with magnets included (just stick them on the disc). Total brake bleed took < 30 minutes. I also used the ATE Super Blue brake fluid (purged the complete system with 2 litres).

As Mike said, this is a pretty easy job. You need an allen wrench on a socket to remove the calipers. Please, Please, Please!!! do not overtorque the caliper bolts when you put them back in: 63 ft-lbs. Otherwise, you'll be buying a new spindle. Don't ask me how I know.

I push the pads back a little differently. After removing the retaining rod, tak a pair of channel lock pliers, and put one jaw on the ear of the pad, the other on the caliper where the retaining rod goes through. Put a piece of rubber between the jaw and the caliper to avoid scratching the paint. Then squeeze the pliers until the pistons are fully retracted. If you are just changing pads, replace the one on the side you just compressed before going to the other side, ot else the pistons will expand into the gap where the pad was when you squeeze the other side.

Good luck!

Jon

+1 torque wrench is a must. Aluminum is easy to strip.