why does my car seem slow off the line?
Up till now I've never looked at 1st gear boost; too busy watching the road and the tach. But next time I get a chance I'm going to watch it on a WOT 1st gear pull.
I do get a consistant 0.8 bar peak in second gear pulls, with Europipe Stage 2.
I do get a consistant 0.8 bar peak in second gear pulls, with Europipe Stage 2.
Originally posted by MBailey
I tried some runs on the way to work. I got 0.7 bar in first, 0.9 bar in second and 1.0 bar in third. My car is a stage 1 GIAC.
I tried some runs on the way to work. I got 0.7 bar in first, 0.9 bar in second and 1.0 bar in third. My car is a stage 1 GIAC.
I went out this morning with a friend who has the EVO Stage 2 Hammer upgrade, Bailey DV's, and a 100 cell cat exhaust. It was 70 degrees and we ran through 1st and 2nd on a flat road burning 93 octane.
With PSM off he launched from a roll starting at ~1000 RPM and went WOT slow enough to avoid wheel spin. At the 1-2 shift (about 6200-6400 RPM) the boost was at 0.5 bar. After the 1-2 shift, the WOT run to ~6400 RPM in 2nd gear was at 1.0 bar.
The Turbo without question has always lagged on the cockpit tach RPM versus the real engine RPM when WOT in 1st gear...it just winds up too fast to allow the analog tach to give an accurate reading. The boost reading has to be the same case because we were accelerating VERY hard in 1st gear; we were not accelerating at anything close to what 0.5 bar would ever produce.
We also did a 2nd gear pull starting at a steady 3000 RPM (level road). The boost climbed to 1.1 which it held to the 2-3 shift at ~6400 RPM.
With PSM off he launched from a roll starting at ~1000 RPM and went WOT slow enough to avoid wheel spin. At the 1-2 shift (about 6200-6400 RPM) the boost was at 0.5 bar. After the 1-2 shift, the WOT run to ~6400 RPM in 2nd gear was at 1.0 bar.
The Turbo without question has always lagged on the cockpit tach RPM versus the real engine RPM when WOT in 1st gear...it just winds up too fast to allow the analog tach to give an accurate reading. The boost reading has to be the same case because we were accelerating VERY hard in 1st gear; we were not accelerating at anything close to what 0.5 bar would ever produce.
We also did a 2nd gear pull starting at a steady 3000 RPM (level road). The boost climbed to 1.1 which it held to the 2-3 shift at ~6400 RPM.
dock, was it x-50 or non x-50? im scared i will push the engine and turbo's too hard after programming the chip. i drive my cars very hard, and i just want to make sure that the chip i add will not kill my car
Originally posted by OKHJOON190
was it x-50 or non x-50? im scared i will push the engine and turbo's too hard after programming the chip. i drive my cars very hard, and i just want to make sure that the chip i add will not kill my car
was it x-50 or non x-50? im scared i will push the engine and turbo's too hard after programming the chip. i drive my cars very hard, and i just want to make sure that the chip i add will not kill my car
I don't think you would kill your car with a Stage 2 upgrade. Will it last as long as a stock Turbo driven the same way? Probably not...parts will naturally wear out quicker with the added stress of the added power. But wear out right away? No.
In my opinion, the Stage 2 would be a very good way to go. I don't see another Porsche from the factory anytime soon that would compete with the performance, so if something did fail it would be worth it to have it fixed and keep the car.
I'm not an expert on anything, but here are my open opinions.
If I'm not mistaken the boost chart being displayed in this thread, and many other threads, has nothing to do with what your boost gauge reads in the car. Wouldn't it relate to boost right after the turbo before pressure loss? The 1600 hPa is 1.6 bar or over 23 psi, around what a Stage 4 would be dishing out. LOL The pressure being displayed in the car is manifold pressure. That's quite different.
Here's a conversion link to check out.
Pressure conversion link
We are questioning the off the line performance of a car that's probably over 4000 lbs with driver and after modifications. Hasn't it been in the 90F to 100F range in Los Angeles? More than likely the engine is heat soaked with all those stop lights in LA. It seems the car is pretty much being rolled off the line bogging the start too. The traction control is probably on as well adding to performance loss and likelihood of turbo boggage.
My thought would be, wait till winter and give the start another try.
If I'm not mistaken the boost chart being displayed in this thread, and many other threads, has nothing to do with what your boost gauge reads in the car. Wouldn't it relate to boost right after the turbo before pressure loss? The 1600 hPa is 1.6 bar or over 23 psi, around what a Stage 4 would be dishing out. LOL The pressure being displayed in the car is manifold pressure. That's quite different.
Here's a conversion link to check out.
Pressure conversion link
We are questioning the off the line performance of a car that's probably over 4000 lbs with driver and after modifications. Hasn't it been in the 90F to 100F range in Los Angeles? More than likely the engine is heat soaked with all those stop lights in LA. It seems the car is pretty much being rolled off the line bogging the start too. The traction control is probably on as well adding to performance loss and likelihood of turbo boggage.
My thought would be, wait till winter and give the start another try.
HOLY CRAP BATMAN!!!!
Tonto would beat the crap out of the lone ranger for doin the same thing to Silver!
U guys cannot do that 5K clutch/ebrake launch without first capitializing your mechanic's bankroll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Having replaced many 996 turbo clutch's I can say for sure that you will need more than a simple clutch
BTW-better get a respirator in the cockpit because you may die of cancer before you limp that poor beast home!havefundriveporschetakechances-Mark-FORMULA MOTORSPORTS
Tonto would beat the crap out of the lone ranger for doin the same thing to Silver!
U guys cannot do that 5K clutch/ebrake launch without first capitializing your mechanic's bankroll!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Having replaced many 996 turbo clutch's I can say for sure that you will need more than a simple clutch
BTW-better get a respirator in the cockpit because you may die of cancer before you limp that poor beast home!havefundriveporschetakechances-Mark-FORMULA MOTORSPORTS
Originally posted by greg schroeder
The 1600 hPa is 1.6 bar or over 23 psi, around what a Stage 4 would be dishing out.
The 1600 hPa is 1.6 bar or over 23 psi, around what a Stage 4 would be dishing out.
Two questions... As for the reading in 1st gear, was it initiated from a roll (and if so what was your RPM when you went WOT) or from a stop... and what was the grade of the road you were on.
Ok. Got my baby back today with a new tranny, clutch, and flow meter. 01TT with no ecu upgrade. Did the test in ~80 weather. Grade was 20-25 deg.
1st: .5 bar if WOT @1000rpm
1st: .7 bar if WOT @3000
2nd: .7 bar WOT @2000
3rd: .7 bar WOT @2200
4th: .8 bar WOT @2200
1st: .5 bar if WOT @1000rpm
1st: .7 bar if WOT @3000
2nd: .7 bar WOT @2000
3rd: .7 bar WOT @2200
4th: .8 bar WOT @2200
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