27,000 Range 1 ignitions on a 45k mile car, should I worry?
Yes. That's my understanding
Whether it's flashed today or not, I bet it was at one time.
Call GIAC. Most cars flashed a few years ago all have GIAC flashes.T ey keep a vin database. You may be entitled to a reflash fro a few hundred $$.
Whether it's flashed today or not, I bet it was at one time.
Call GIAC. Most cars flashed a few years ago all have GIAC flashes.T ey keep a vin database. You may be entitled to a reflash fro a few hundred $$.
Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; May 22, 2009 at 12:44 AM.
As far as the type 2, it could easily happened if the person tried to powershift (no-lift-shift) ,and missed a gear. THe momentum/torque could slam the revs straight through the rev limit - i have seen it many times on my 3000GT when missing a gear at the strip.
To my understanding, this is correct, and these would be Type 2s (right?).
To my understanding, this is correct, and these would be Type 2s (right?).
The type 2's you're looking at are not enough to worry about. According to Chad, the type 2's would be higher than 600 for every second the car is overrevved. During a misshift it is going to be atleast a half second or 349+(assuming a 7000RPM rev limit for type 2's) type 2's in order for the car to wind itself up and the driver to get the clutch disengaged. JMHO.
Do you actually know WHAT is inspected in a PPI?!?!?!
Most people haven't a clue, jsut say "I want a PPI". Dealer looks out the window, says "looks clean, pay be $200 for my PPI I just performed".
DO NOT think that a PPI is thorough, honest or precise- unless you know EXACTLY what they are inspecting and what criteria they are using. (ie paint meter? Compression/leakdown? etc) You have zero recourse if they miss something- people think that somehow a Porsche PPI is some kind of 'porsche official approval'. Not!
I'm not overly concerned with the overrevs- only 76 type 2s and those were what, 28 hrs or 500-1000 miles ago.
A
Most people haven't a clue, jsut say "I want a PPI". Dealer looks out the window, says "looks clean, pay be $200 for my PPI I just performed".
DO NOT think that a PPI is thorough, honest or precise- unless you know EXACTLY what they are inspecting and what criteria they are using. (ie paint meter? Compression/leakdown? etc) You have zero recourse if they miss something- people think that somehow a Porsche PPI is some kind of 'porsche official approval'. Not!
I'm not overly concerned with the overrevs- only 76 type 2s and those were what, 28 hrs or 500-1000 miles ago.
A
To me, a PPI is the initial glance at the car which either: 1) warrants me going/flying out and checking the car myself, or 2) established that the car is not worth looking at.
I agree with you, the 2s are not my worry, but I don't like the 27,000 Range 1 number. From my research, this is about 3x the average for this mileage/hrs of operation.
Thanks for a heads up on PPI though, hopefully new buyers will read this and be cautious about the PPI!
Yes, it is cumulative with the last event being being displayed.
I'm not an expert but, when I purchased my car it had, IIRC, ~500 type 1's and very few type 2's. I chipped it, raised the bar, and when Powell and I checked it with his Durametric 6 months ago, I had ~25000 or so Type 1's and ~50 Type 2's. The car is still strong as hell and doesn't have any issues. This was clearly because of the rev limit increase.
Yes, type 2's can occur by disengaging the clutch at or near the rev limiter without lifting off the gas, and other assorted ways as you describe. Mostly due to flywheel momentum at or near the stock rev limiter.
The type 2's you're looking at are not enough to worry about. According to Chad, the type 2's would be higher than 600 for every second the car is overrevved. During a misshift it is going to be atleast a half second or 349+(assuming a 7000RPM rev limit for type 2's) type 2's in order for the car to wind itself up and the driver to get the clutch disengaged. JMHO.
I'm not an expert but, when I purchased my car it had, IIRC, ~500 type 1's and very few type 2's. I chipped it, raised the bar, and when Powell and I checked it with his Durametric 6 months ago, I had ~25000 or so Type 1's and ~50 Type 2's. The car is still strong as hell and doesn't have any issues. This was clearly because of the rev limit increase.
Yes, type 2's can occur by disengaging the clutch at or near the rev limiter without lifting off the gas, and other assorted ways as you describe. Mostly due to flywheel momentum at or near the stock rev limiter.
The type 2's you're looking at are not enough to worry about. According to Chad, the type 2's would be higher than 600 for every second the car is overrevved. During a misshift it is going to be atleast a half second or 349+(assuming a 7000RPM rev limit for type 2's) type 2's in order for the car to wind itself up and the driver to get the clutch disengaged. JMHO.
i hate to be a noob, but can somebody explain what this means exactly?
TVR4 - is this why you passed on this car? did it in fact previously have an ECU upgrade done?
TVR4 - is this why you passed on this car? did it in fact previously have an ECU upgrade done?
I test drove this car today, honest seller, and the car drove great. can anyone take a minute to give me an honest opinion of these results? Obviously there are alot of options out there, and I dont want to settle on a car with potential problems. but I'd imagine every 996TT that's 8 years old has been ran hard a few times...
If I am not mistaken, isn't that why there is a rev limiter? I always thought that the rev limiter kicked in at the redline on the tach, but that was not the actual grenade point for the engine. The grenade point would probably be several hundred rpm above the tach redline. In other words, the type 1's could occur, but the rev limiter is there to "idiot proof" or "nanny" the car and protect it from what could really hurt it. So, if it is stock, type 1's should be of no concern, since the rev limiter won't allow the car to actually rev to the danger point.
On the other hand, if the car has been flashed to raise the point where the nanny rev limiter kicks in, the type 1's could be more of a concern.
As someone said earlier, can some tuners chime in here?
On the other hand, if the car has been flashed to raise the point where the nanny rev limiter kicks in, the type 1's could be more of a concern.
As someone said earlier, can some tuners chime in here?
If I am not mistaken, isn't that why there is a rev limiter? I always thought that the rev limiter kicked in at the redline on the tach, but that was not the actual grenade point for the engine. The grenade point would probably be several hundred rpm above the tach redline. In other words, the type 1's could occur, but the rev limiter is there to "idiot proof" or "nanny" the car and protect it from what could really hurt it. So, if it is stock, type 1's should be of no concern, since the rev limiter won't allow the car to actually rev to the danger point.
On the other hand, if the car has been flashed to raise the point where the nanny rev limiter kicks in, the type 1's could be more of a concern.
As someone said earlier, can some tuners chime in here?
On the other hand, if the car has been flashed to raise the point where the nanny rev limiter kicks in, the type 1's could be more of a concern.
As someone said earlier, can some tuners chime in here?
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