seems like a good idea to replace the f hose as well

any sugestion for which one to use ?

 

I purchased my baileys from mike @ AWE board sponser.
good idea to change out the F-pipe while your in there.
http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shar...IL=BaileyValve

I went with Evo hoses when they had a sale.

Awe sells Samco hoses which are also good. Not sure if they sell the hoses separately..
http://www.awe-tuning.com/pages/shar...&IL=996TTsamco

 

I kinda feel obligated to chime in here for Vivid racing and the Agency Power DVs they sell. I have them on my car and replaced at the same time with the F-hose. They're much higher quality then the plastic stockers and once you're seeing 0.9 Bar and higher, they're not going to bleed.

If you call Dan at vivid, he'll give you a deal when you buy along with the F-hose.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...5-p-53979.html

The install is kind of a pain as the rear DV is a little tricky to get to and the aftermarket DVs are just a bit larger than the stock ones.

Some people have no issues with the install, other have sworn that they'd never do it again.

Let me know if you have any questions.

There is also install instructions at vivid's website.

 

ttboost: Thanks, seems pretty easy; also a good time to swap out the F hose with a silicone one.

 

The ones Tony at EPL installed are the Bosch plus new F hose.

 

I also have the upgrated Bosch ones and they work perfect.Before I had 2 aftermarket ones and they both failed after a year.

 

The DVs Tony reccomends are the Bosch 0 280 142 114. It is the upgraded factory 710N diverter valve from the Audi TT 225.(Audi part #06A 145 710N) Also known as the Bosch Motorsport unit. They are very reasonable ... I paid $66 per through a dealer.

Here is a link: http://shop.achtuning.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=586

BierGut

 

The uprated Bosch ones are the 110 valves (Bosch Part # 0 280 142 110). I have never heard of the membrane ripping out and getting inhaled by the turbo (even if it did, we're talking about a sliver of rubber, not the type of thing that'll take out an impeller blade. When the stock valve (old part) fails, the membrane develops a tear and air leaks across (hence the honking geese sound which is really basically the same thing that happens with a whoopy cushion). That tear is a small leak, I've never seen a separated valve membrane.

Any valve that uses a piston in cylinder design (baily, forge (NOTE, NOT "FORGED" - pet peeve), hyperboost, etc.) can seize. It doesn't matter if the manufacturer calls it "serviceable" or "lifetime" or whatever. You've got a lubricated piston in a cylinder with small clearances. When the lube dries out, the valve will seize. It doesn't matter what the name brand is.

Discussed at length here (starting on page 3):
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ve-best-5.html

 

I really like the Bosch unit.

The lubricated cylinder is a simple cnc design which might work but I'd reather have something that resembles OEM with improved performance.

The question is does the Bosch unit need to be modified in any way to hold higher boost? What's the deal with Changing Springs in some of the units I'm seeing?

 

I don't think the Bosch unit would need upgrading as thats the whole point of the unit, it's already "an upgraded internal diaphragm which is more heat resistant and stiffer than other OEM diverter valves".

This being said, if you're going to upgrade your DVs, don't do it half asssed. I'd look for some CNC valves that will give you the piece of mind in the future as they will be able to handle any upgrades you do without worry of leakage.

I'm not sure what you're seeing with changing springs. There are many out there that do not require maintenance.

 

I have these upgraded DV's and I've been running 1.4 for while with no issues.

 

Hopnestly I feel that the whole billet vs diagramph argument/war is bogus.

In my opinion, truth of the matter is that both are mechanical parts that experiance wear and tear and will fail over time. There is no question about it. Another thing I've learned is the fact that if something comes with a lifetime warranty, it is just calculated into the cost that if it fails you get a new part and it will fail.

 

I'm sure you're right about the whole lifetime guarantee thing.

I just think that something that is CNC will have higher tollerances than something that is plastic. The metal (aluminium) will take longer to wear than the plastic unit.

I think either will probably work fine. It's not like the plastic ones have been exploading or anything. Just under higher boost pressures, the plastic is more prone to leakage due to seal failure. Could this be because plastic has a higher potential for bending or warping under higher pressures? I have no idea.

From what I've read, people are just as happy with the Bosch units as they are with the CNC stuff. Just a preference I guess and ultimately what you'll be using it for.

 

Well, correct me if I'm wrong but the CNC units consist of a CNC body, CNC piston and probably an o-ring on the piston and a spring.- which explains why they are so easy to manufacture in aftermarket vs the Plastic units which have more materials which is ultimatelly harder to source.

 

thanks everyone. Just ordered two of the saab/ bosch 110s for $99 shipped. now where do I look at a cheap price for the f hose?