996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

30 series sidewalls on 19" wheels

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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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30 series sidewalls on 19" wheels

Ok guys, I have f***ed up both of my 25 series rear tires in 7K miles. One has small bubble in the sidewall presumably from entering a driveway and damaging teh sidewall the other has small cracks on the inside sidewall (I'm told from being run without enough pressure). I check pressure regularly and actually run 40 PSI...

I think I'm really careful, but obviously not. Next time I'm going with 30 sidewalls, even if I have to stay RWD. Might be a good excuse to take out the AWD components. Right now I'm sans driveshaft only.

Anyone know what I can do for the front to match 305/30 19s? Is it even necessary to change from the 235/35s?
 

Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; Aug 15, 2009 at 06:12 PM.
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Nobody?
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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If you are sans AWD, then it doesn't matter what diameter you have- the 'mismatch' is only an issue when the front to rear differential is connected...
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:40 PM
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Sorry for the OT question...but do you notice an improvement with the drive shaft out? Do you plan to commit to the removal of the rest of the AWD?
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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What about PSM? Will it kick in at weird times?

Originally Posted by ard
If you are sans AWD, then it doesn't matter what diameter you have- the 'mismatch' is only an issue when the front to rear differential is connected...
 
Old Aug 16, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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The thing grips hard either way. I've alternated with the drive shaft on and off for 6 month stints. It's a bit faster, but with a bit less grip and can be a little more squirrelly on hard 1-2 shifts. Especially as the tires wear. Not too bad though. If you can drive the car, you can drive it either way. Lose 70lb, an gain some frictional losses. Of course something like this kills resale value and I would plan on putting the AWD back in if I was to sell it (which I don't) All you need are some new stub axles as they come apart when you go RWD).

To be honest, I like it when I take it off and then like it when I put it back on. It's just a slightly different experience.

I guess one option is to go with another set of 315/25s and just get the road hazard warranty on them. These things are so easy to damage. I really though I was being super careful and with over $1,000 for two tires... It's not the end of the world, but that's $1,000 for no reason IMO.

It's a 15 minute job to remove the drive shaft and try it. I recommend you try it.

Originally Posted by ttboost
Sorry for the OT question...but do you notice an improvement with the drive shaft out? Do you plan to commit to the removal of the rest of the AWD?
 
Old Aug 17, 2009 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ari
The thing grips hard either way. I've alternated with the drive shaft on and off for 6 month stints. It's a bit faster, but with a bit less grip and can be a little more squirrelly on hard 1-2 shifts. Especially as the tires wear. Not too bad though. If you can drive the car, you can drive it either way. Lose 70lb, an gain some frictional losses. Of course something like this kills resale value and I would plan on putting the AWD back in if I was to sell it (which I don't) All you need are some new stub axles as they come apart when you go RWD).

To be honest, I like it when I take it off and then like it when I put it back on. It's just a slightly different experience.

I guess one option is to go with another set of 315/25s and just get the road hazard warranty on them. These things are so easy to damage. I really though I was being super careful and with over $1,000 for two tires... It's not the end of the world, but that's $1,000 for no reason IMO.

It's a 15 minute job to remove the drive shaft and try it. I recommend you try it.

Thanks Ari, I think I will.
 
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