Blew my motor! :(
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So if someone "blows their motor" and does not do catastrophic damage and can rebuild, say to just put it back together and redo the rods, what is the ballpark price of this work? It's a question I have been curious to know the answer to for awhile...
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
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So if someone "blows their motor" and does not do catastrophic damage and can rebuild, say to just put it back together and redo the rods, what is the ballpark price of this work? It's a question I have been curious to know the answer to for awhile...
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
Last edited by cjv; Oct 27, 2009 at 03:50 AM.
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It depends upon where you are located as labor rates vary. A rebuild would be anywhere from 6 to 8K. Then you have the cost of a new set of steel rods which depending on what you use could be an additional $1,200 (low) to $3,300 (high). To give you an idea a set of Pauter or Carillo's use to be about $1,600.
when most motors "blow" do they seem to be rebuildable? I would think the most common issue with higher power levels is rod bending, and therefore rebuildable, vs spitting out parts and damaging the block/casing/etc?
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Chad, I know about Pauter and Carillo's but what are the $3,300 dollar rods? Who are they made by and why do they cost twice as much as the Pauter and Carillo's? I'm guessing the $3,300 rods are made from titanium?
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I gave up on manual boost controllers years ago (on Japanese cars). Back then there was a lot more shooting the dark and we did;t have the tools to data log properly, etc... We'd set the boost via a manual and/or electronic boost controller and hope it worked.
The problem with that setup is that overtime there is a tendency to want to boost it up. 1/4 PSI at a time. next thing you know you're 3 psi over the suggested limit, get into a quick rave with someone. By this time you are thinking that 3 over the original boost pressure is OK (it's probably not) but you crank it another 1/4 just for this run....
Manual boost controllers are very conducive to over exuberance and take away many safeguards built into this ECU to protect itself.
Please do not take this as an insult to anyone personally. In truth I don't even know if the OP even has a boost controller at all or claiming that he is to blame. Just wanted to share my story with someone if it can keep them from grief down the road.
I'm a fan of ECU boost control for the reasons stated above.
I do have a question: what is generally thought of as a safe modded rev limit? The first gear in these cars can use all the help it can get.
The problem with that setup is that overtime there is a tendency to want to boost it up. 1/4 PSI at a time. next thing you know you're 3 psi over the suggested limit, get into a quick rave with someone. By this time you are thinking that 3 over the original boost pressure is OK (it's probably not) but you crank it another 1/4 just for this run....
Manual boost controllers are very conducive to over exuberance and take away many safeguards built into this ECU to protect itself.
Please do not take this as an insult to anyone personally. In truth I don't even know if the OP even has a boost controller at all or claiming that he is to blame. Just wanted to share my story with someone if it can keep them from grief down the road.
I'm a fan of ECU boost control for the reasons stated above.
I do have a question: what is generally thought of as a safe modded rev limit? The first gear in these cars can use all the help it can get.
Just playing devils advocate here. How do you go past 1.5 bar without an EBC? The EBC will override all safety controls, but if you are looking to go past 1.5 is there another way? I did not think there was.
apparently there is much speculation about what might have happened...oil pump, rods, oil dilution from meth etc but there is a datalog that shows what did happen, at least for a brief snapshot during that parrticular pull. I guess we can assume the datalog is from a dyno pull since it clearly ran to redline which the op said did not happen at the point of failure. Why would there be 36 degrees of timing? That seems excessive especially at those high rpms. I know what my timimg numbers are as well as joe's and they are a far,far cry from 36 degrees. Also, why run a stock motor with a basic 18g kit to 7500 plus? The turbos are dead long before redline and the extra revs seem redundant. I don't understand this one and i wish the op well....
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I gave up on manual boost controllers years ago (on Japanese cars). Back then there was a lot more shooting the dark and we did;t have the tools to data log properly, etc... We'd set the boost via a manual and/or electronic boost controller and hope it worked.
The problem with that setup is that overtime there is a tendency to want to boost it up. 1/4 PSI at a time. next thing you know you're 3 psi over the suggested limit, get into a quick rave with someone. By this time you are thinking that 3 over the original boost pressure is OK (it's probably not) but you crank it another 1/4 just for this run....
Manual boost controllers are very conducive to over exuberance and take away many safeguards built into this ECU to protect itself.
Please do not take this as an insult to anyone personally. In truth I don't even know if the OP even has a boost controller at all or claiming that he is to blame. Just wanted to share my story with someone if it can keep them from grief down the road.
I'm a fan of ECU boost control for the reasons stated above.
I do have a question: what is generally thought of as a safe modded rev limit? The first gear in these cars can use all the help it can get.
The problem with that setup is that overtime there is a tendency to want to boost it up. 1/4 PSI at a time. next thing you know you're 3 psi over the suggested limit, get into a quick rave with someone. By this time you are thinking that 3 over the original boost pressure is OK (it's probably not) but you crank it another 1/4 just for this run....
Manual boost controllers are very conducive to over exuberance and take away many safeguards built into this ECU to protect itself.
Please do not take this as an insult to anyone personally. In truth I don't even know if the OP even has a boost controller at all or claiming that he is to blame. Just wanted to share my story with someone if it can keep them from grief down the road.
I'm a fan of ECU boost control for the reasons stated above.
I do have a question: what is generally thought of as a safe modded rev limit? The first gear in these cars can use all the help it can get.
Well said Ari,
but I have one and I never go over the suggested limit... neither did I on my 800 hp Evo...
Another thing to consider... most guys run the car with upgraded turbos that come with WG springs... like the 1 bar which I am not a fan of... and during colder weather they overboost considerably and cannot control the psi at all... many posts have been made about problems with overboosting after the aftermarket WGs springs were put on or after the temps dropped...
On stock springs I could not agree with you more... but on aftermarket springs I believe its important to have... or alt least have a method that keeps the PSi where they should be...
but I have one and I never go over the suggested limit... neither did I on my 800 hp Evo...
Another thing to consider... most guys run the car with upgraded turbos that come with WG springs... like the 1 bar which I am not a fan of... and during colder weather they overboost considerably and cannot control the psi at all... many posts have been made about problems with overboosting after the aftermarket WGs springs were put on or after the temps dropped...
On stock springs I could not agree with you more... but on aftermarket springs I believe its important to have... or alt least have a method that keeps the PSi where they should be...
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The cold weather can increase the charge but only when the car is also cold. So the first few time you peg the gas to the floor keep a keen eye on the boost gauge. It may happen a few times early on.
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So if someone "blows their motor" and does not do catastrophic damage and can rebuild, say to just put it back together and redo the rods, what is the ballpark price of this work? It's a question I have been curious to know the answer to for awhile...
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
I know you can go crazy and really start spending money fast once inside the motor (and many do!) but I am talking the bare minimum to just address the weak spot in the factory motor (rods) at higher power levels than stock.
i have a list here in my service history that includes LWFW and new rods and complete engine overhaul stock heads pauter x-beams 20,800 but its not from a shop that posts on here
it had these better then stock parts on the list
pauter x-beams
GT2 oil pump
upgraded intercoolers
LWFW
bending the rods is serious if you run it one second too long the rod breaks and takes out the case and everything in it path that is not rebuildable =)
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wg springs is not what happened here. timing was way advanced from the beginning
Well said Ari,
but I have one and I never go over the suggested limit... neither did I on my 800 hp Evo...
Another thing to consider... most guys run the car with upgraded turbos that come with WG springs... like the 1 bar which I am not a fan of... and during colder weather they overboost considerably and cannot control the psi at all... many posts have been made about problems with overboosting after the aftermarket WGs springs were put on or after the temps dropped...
On stock springs I could not agree with you more... but on aftermarket springs I believe its important to have... or alt least have a method that keeps the PSi where they should be...
but I have one and I never go over the suggested limit... neither did I on my 800 hp Evo...
Another thing to consider... most guys run the car with upgraded turbos that come with WG springs... like the 1 bar which I am not a fan of... and during colder weather they overboost considerably and cannot control the psi at all... many posts have been made about problems with overboosting after the aftermarket WGs springs were put on or after the temps dropped...
On stock springs I could not agree with you more... but on aftermarket springs I believe its important to have... or alt least have a method that keeps the PSi where they should be...