It was a pretty constant sound, but more pronounced at higher RPM's in lower gears, especially first and second gear at 4krpm+. The noise changed with pedal, but did not go away. It's been making a belt whine since I bought it with 29k miles. I'm at 31.5k miles now and its progressively gotten worse until theres now occasionally a mechanical clinking sound, almost like a popcan is being kicked around in there. That mechanical sound is only at idle really though, and goes away when driving, but the other whine is still there and worsening. The noise was the only symptom, still seemed to drive fine to me.

Unfortunatley, I don't know of any indy shops in my area (Columbus OH), but if anyone can help me out on this one, I'd really appreciate it!

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ETW 360, as for the ride quality with the 19'' wheels, I really didn't notice a difference at all. The car was already stiff and bumpy before with 18''s and its still stiff and bumpy with 19's. Can't say I picked up a difference in anything other than the PSM wanting to set off around high speed turns (reset steering sensor already, Porsche charged me $50 for probalby 3 minutes of work, have not had a chance to see if this fixed it).

 

Welcome to the club!

These cars are pretty damn reliable, but when something goes wrong it can get expensive. My advice, dont cheap out on proper maintenance. A good indy shop is great, but be wary of a DIY or a low quality shop that can make things WORSE.

Consider it part of the great deal you got on the car, get it fixed right and move on.

Even though the car "drives fine" - I probably would not drive it any more until its fixed.

 

What kind of warranty did you get and how much was it?

I paid $3300 for a bumper to bumper warranty good for 4 years or 40k miles with a $100 deductible from Fidelity. It's already paid for itself with a blown head unit ($2k or so) plus a bad O-ring on the oil cooler that they had to drop the engine for ($3600 I think). No problems at all from the warranty company.

 

The prior owner bought the warranty for $4k on this 02. Term was 3 years and its the "comprehensive" (BS) package. It was transferred to me with 2 years 3 months remaining for a $2k higher sticker price on the car. I'm sure my warranty would cover the repairs you mention there, just not things that are anywhere close to maintenance. They denied my ignition switch/lock issue claim (but I was able to DIY switch only for $17 and 90 minutes of my own labor; Porsche wanted $525 to replace switch/lock). They also denied a claim to fix the weather proofing strip on the driver's window that was letting in air at highways speeds in one little spot (I fixed it myself with a small rubber wedge that is not visable).

Its not that big of a deal, and I suppose my claims arn't supposed to be covered, but its just that when I paid $2k for a warranty with the car I imagined any $2k+ repairs would likely be covered. Just false expecatations on my part is all.

In the mean time, at least they gave me a loaner (VW 2.0T something or other; boring dad's 4 door ) that I can use to get all my errands done until I can get my Infiniti up here also when I move into a new apt next weekend and parking is free, not $70 a month per car. The first Porsche dealership I had an appointment acted surprised when I asked for a loaner the day I took the car in and they told me they didnt' haev any, and that would require booking 3 weeks out, so I told them to screw off.

 

So this has all been resolved..

It took 5 phone calls from me and 2 from Porsche, but I got my warranty company to issue me a check for $755 less $100 deductible. Total repair bill for the belt/tensioner was $1900. I saw the tensioning roller that was the problem, it lost about 5 ball bearings and was the noise culprit. I'm tickled to death that my warranty actually paid out something here, despite thier insistance that this wasn't covered during the first series of phone calls. The only thing I'm concerned about now is the labor. Porsche charge $1012 in labor for the belt/tensioner repair, citing 8.5 hours at $120 an hour. I know they had to take the exhaust off to do this, but the warranty company said this should have only taken 3.5 hours (which is all they are covering at $70 an hour, thier max rate), and more importantly, I know Porsche did this entire repair in one day as I know the required parts showed up the same day they did it, and I'm doubting 8.5 hours was involved that day. Any thoughts on this labor figure? I'm leaning toward letting it go, as I dont' want to jeopardize relationships and realize dealers are expensive, but the bill is not itemized for labor and I feel like at $120 an hour I should know how they are spending thier time.

 

Porsche dealers in US charges high prices for labor

 

Thanks for keeping us informed. This is path I'm likely to take if I decide on a used TT (not to replace the R35).

 

No doubt the stealer doubled the hours it actually took...this is very common.

Expect to pay $90=100 and hour labor if you can find a good indy.

 

Congrads! What cat bypass did you go with? Curious if anyone here has EP ST2 Quiet w/cat bypass? if so is it much louder?? performance?

 

My exhaust is Dr. Jitsu's old EP ST2 Loud w/cat bypass pipes. Maybe he can correct me on this, but it looks like the cats were gutted after delivery by Europipe, as they are definately EP cat casings but are hollow, and Europipe does not make cat bypass pipes.

The CEL for O2 sensors on the exhaust came on for two days, then went away over the 6 weeks or so I've had the exhaust on. I'm about to head out of town again, but when i get back on Aug 10th, I'm finally going to get around to using this flash cable I bought from Switzer a few weeks ago . I'm going to delete the second O2 sensors with this flash just as a precaution anyway .

Finally, I'm still having steering angle sensor problems at high speed cornering as I previously mentioned. I had Porsche reset the steering sensor ($60, o joy), and of course that did nothing. I'm hoping this can also be remedied in the upcoming flash as I'm not getting rid of these beautiful 997tt wheels despite this nuisance.

 

You are using stock 997TT tire sizes on an AWD 996TT?

Isn't that a 'front diff destroying mismatch'?

A

 

The cats were deleted by none other than the Mad Scientist himself, Todd K.

 

No, not stock 997tt tire sizes, I'm using 315/25/19 and 235/35/19 tires. See on page one of this thread for details. There's also some "997tt wheels on 996tt threads" where its discussed. You just need to be under 25.5'' diameter and with 3/12'' difference from front to back.

 

Car looks great!


Anyone need a set of 997 TT wheels/tires + RSS 7/15mm spacers (3months old)? I have a complete set in perfect shape _ and I mean perfect for sale for $2500 + shipping or if you are around NJ, pick up.

These are from 2008 TT with 6k miles. Tires are in great shape too.



https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/automotive-parts-accessories-sale-wanted/218650-fs-2008-997turbo-wheels-tires-tpms.html

 

The car has been flashed (by Switzer) and its seriously great. The boost seems so much quicker and more aggressive. I definately agree that you'll wanna have both hands on the wheel at WOT and 1.2 bar. Anyway, the flash is highly recommended, and I got great service from Switzer so would highly recommend them.

Does anyone here have 996tt with a EP Stage 2 Loud (catless) exhaust with flash and have it dyno'd for an official HP/torque reading? I'm not real interested in doing it myself, but curious to get a more precise performance reading for my car's power now. From what I've read, I'm guessing its 500-525hp with these two performance mods.

Now if I can just figure out how to fix this steering angle sensor problem that triggers PSM around fast/aggressive corners due to the 997tt wheels even when they are not slipping at all. Tym at Switzer said that he had another customer have the same PSM steering angle sensor problem with 997tt wheel upgrades, and no solution has been found; although I know this is such a common mod and I haven't read much about the problem elseware. I had Porsche reset the sensor ($60) and that didn't change anything. The car still applys breaking to the inside wheels when cornering on highway exit ramps at speeds over ~45-50mph, even though there is definately no slip. I do have mismatched tires (PS2 in front, Nitto Invos in back), but they are only .3 inch off in diameter which should not be the problem, and I really don't want to buy new tires prematurely. The problem isn't that big of one, but occasionally its an annoyance since I can't really push the car's handeling capabilities. Please let me know if you have any thoughts on the matter.