The reason I disassembled mine was to fix a leak. I found the gasket between the rear case and the transmission ripped around the locating pin. I also replaced the rubber "o" rings on the tube between the rear case and the transmission. It will pull out of case pretty easily and it is a good idea to replace them because if they leak you have to tear it all the way back down. I got the torque specs for the case bolts by reasearching like fasteners on the manual gearbox because there is not a shop manual for the TIP. I torqued the gear retention bolts to 50 Nm and the case bolts to 25 Nm(in three steps 10, 15 then 25). It took 2.5 Liters of trans fluid to top it off. Yours will probably take less due to the fact mine was leaking. I have put about 3k miles on it since and no leaks and no gear noise. The only Parts blow out is in the PET with no part numbers given for most of the internals.

 

Adam,
Not to hijack the thread but....
How do you like the DIY you did on the mount? (noise, play, etc.)
Mine is ripped and I am thinking of going that route.
Thanks
Mikey

 

I fabricated a fill tool using 1/4 od steel brake line bent in a small radius 170 degree bend with flare fitting hooked up to suction/fill tool. You have to monitor fluid temp while filling it has to be between 30-40 deg C. you can do this one of two ways monitor thru Software(Durametric etc.) or with portable thermometer with remote probe (probe on wire). I did it with portable thermo. I would push a liter into it first then start it up and watch temp when it starts nearing 30c start topping it off till it weeps out.(like filling a differential) if it exceeds 40c shut down and cool for a min because at temps above 40c it will start dumping out the fluid prematurely leading to low fluid level. I then test drove around block and topped it back off there was a slight drop of about half a liter from the trans case being dry.

 

[quote=MikeyinAZ;2907047]I fabricated a fill tool using 1/4 od steel brake line bent in a small radius 170 degree bend with flare fitting hooked up to suction/fill tool. You have to monitor fluid temp while filling it has to be between 30-40 deg C. you can do this one of two ways monitor thru Software(Durametric etc.) or with portable thermometer with remote probe (probe on wire). I did it with portable thermo. I would push a liter into it first then start it up and watch temp when it starts nearing 30c start topping it off till it weeps out.(like filling a differential) if it exceeds 40c shut down and cool for a min because at temps above 40c it will start dumping out the fluid prematurely leading to low fluid level. I then test drove around block and topped it back off there was a slight drop of about half a liter from the trans case being dry.[/quote

Thanks Mikey,
It sounds quite complicated. I was hoping you had a "Magic Refill " procedure. I read the w/shop manual which sound even worse than your description.LOL
Frank.

 

It is actuall not that difficult (to top it off) A complete change would not be fun at all.
The bend in the tubing is so you can get into fill port there is a plastic baffle just inside and the bend allows you to get in (like factory tool) and you can just hang fill tube there and use both hands on suction/fill tool. The attached picture shows the fill port (yellow arrow) and the red arrows was where all the fluid was dripping.

 

Hi Mikey,
That's interesting. I have a few issues with my Tip. It slips on full power 3rd to 4th. Poss a clutch pack so I was going to change the filter and fluid at some point. It supposedly helps.
Frank

 

Frank, how much power are you putting down? The 3-4 gear clutch pack is the smallest in diameter and it seems to fail first. Sounds like you need to dial your power back or replace your clutch packs..

 

I dont think I'm putting out all that much compared to the monsters on here.
This is what I run
I had a Revo stage 1 standard car 0.9 bar = extra 65 bhp
Then 100 cell Miktex Sports exhaust poss another 20 to 30 bhp( I have used 20 to be conservative)
Then a Revo stage 2 which is they say another 10-15% (I have used 7 % to be conservative) of the total so far.
so= 420 + 65= 485( dyno Printout)SBHP + 20= 505 + 7% =540 SBHP could be a bit more @ 1.0 bar steady on 99 octane fuel.
The Slip is very minor ,the revs go up by about 400 then a clonk and the drive takes. no other issues in other gears.
However I forgot to say even with just the Revo stage 1 the Torque printout on the dyno was 540 ft lbs. That's before any other mods so the torque could be near the Tip limit.
Frank

 

Yes, that torque is pretty strong. Mine would start to slip at 525-550lbs torque.

 

I have just realised you said a DIY Clutch Pack. Is it possible to do it yourself??
Or send it away to MKB in Germany.
Frank

Sorry it was Elegant Performance, still the question stands???

 

No sir, I never said that. I wouldn't recommend a DIY tip rebuild..

 

Sorry I meant to ask Elegant Performance. My mistake.
But you would not advise a Tip rebuild. Is that the case??

 

DIY clutch pac would be digging in to a tip pretty deep. I guess if it goes well you save 8k replacement cost. MKB? new parts installed? or are they pieced together like other places i have heard of.

 

Mercedes-Benz of El Dorado Hills will rebuild your tiptronic for under $2k.

 

I have heard some good things about MKB.
In the future I,m thinking K24 18g . I have the exhaust & Cats so a Revo Stage 3, GT2 intercoolers and a 5 bar FPR and I recon I will be well over the Tip Limit. so its going to have to be done.
Frank