Seems to be the common Myth.. I crank mine up and go.. I use the same common sense with steel and aluminum rods.. oil temps much be right before i step on any built motor car.. As far as stretch I can leave the Aluminum Rods we use Flush with the Deck and not have an issue..

Only 1 way to find out how they work in the Porsche is to try them..

Mike

 

No thats a steel rod from the same company that does aluminum rods for us as well.. Just used the pic from that company..

The clearances of aluminum can be an issue.. Sometimes we have to notch the block to make them work.. It might be a issue on the 996, well see.. Ill keep you informed when we start to assemble ours.. Thanks for the insight..

Mike

 

Everyone has there own opinion on aluminium rods. I'v run GRP for years nice rod, R&R will build anything you can draw btw, I was a WD for them for years.

 

I like dealing with Mike @ R&R.. He will build anything you ask which is cool.. Im going to give it a shot.. As they say, never know til you try right??

Mike

 

Heck yeah, it is possible on the shorter rods there life may be very good. If you can run zero deck with no hitting issues clearly the rod does not move much in that application.

 

Sorry to be so late to the party - just weighed a stock 996tt rod with bolts and nuts no bearings - 565 grams - my carrillos were 35 grams lighter than that (yes you need to clearance the oil pump) and the Pauters that i used in Don Greenwoods motor were about 1 to 1.5 grams lighter than that (bolt right in) - make sure that what ever studs that you do use, red locktite them - set them to the correct height and use a sleeve over the stud and torque the stud to about 10 ft lbs - this will seat the stud against the threads and allow the loctite to set up so later when you torque the heads the studs wont move or settle when the final torque is set or you run high boost and the studs pull/stretch in the case - EVO studs will not need this procedure - sounds like a pain in the a@# to do but trust me - do it

 

As you know 1 application might not apply to the next so im hoping they can work.. Id like to know if anyone can tell me what the weight is on avg for the 3.6 pistons and something with a full skirt not 1/2 skirt all motor type pistons?? I find that in the V8 applications with BIG HEAVY pistons thats where you might see more of the stretch issues..

Mike

 

Wish i had a 3.6 piston to weigh here at the shop - sorry

 

In the car ........ no. On the engine dyno ....... yes. The last test, upon tear down we found an issue with the clevite bearings. Nothing wrong with the bearings other than wrong bearing for application. Clevite does not recommend their stock Porsche bearing for Porsche motors producing the power we are producing. I noted this in our thread as a red flag to others.

In addition, to the last test we upping the injectors to 2650 cc's per cylinder along with replacing the single 90 mm throttle body with six 48 mm throttle bodies, dual injectors and new distribution plenum.

The motor will be in the car before the end of summer.

 

I have a question. When you design a motor do you allow a manufacturer to vary the weight of the piston from the design? The numbers presented do not make sense to me if the stock piston weight was actually 565. That would place the Carrillo's at 530 grams which 5 unplanned grams would in my opinion be a dangerous variance from a designed motor. Can or should Carrillo's or any manufacturer's published weight per rod deviate that much?

Another explanation may be the scale being used. You said there was a 35 gram difference between the Carillo's and stock which which computes closely with my measurement of 571 grams and Carrillo's advertised weight of their lightest rod of 535. If this is the case than adding 5 grams to each number for scale variance would come into line with what Carrillo advertises and what my scale says the stock rod weighs.

I am not looking for an argument, just attempting to make sense of the information.

 

The tightest clearance you will have to contend with is the oil pump. The walls of the oil pump are only so thick and to take too much off the oil pump could lead to failure. I have the number for what can safely be left for wall thickness is you would like to know it. Otherwise you need to do your own design calcs and that would be the wise thing to do as anyone can make a mistake.

Here is a pic of clearances when we were using Pauter rods. Note the rod to the left and the clearance tolerance to the case. Even if aluminum rods would provide longevity, clearance for the aluminum rod's larger dimensions will make for a good challenge. Looking forward to hearing about your journey.

 

Havent posted for a while, figured I was due for an update... I don't remember where I left off but dropped my turbo off at Protomotive before leaving for Afghanistan, Todd , Cyn and company were awesome hosts and very patient showing me and my buddy Pete around their facilities.

During the tear down to replace the rods, we found a few problems, the lifters literally fell apart when they were pulled out.. we were aware of the issues with the earlier years and had planned to use the new part number (there are a few posts about the early 996tt lifters). Someone also overtorqued the camhousing bolts and pulled some threads... I'll post some pics later but why the hell would someone overtorque the cam housing?

Later on during the teardown the exhaust valves were in bad shape, they were so pitted that they would be unable to be dressed up and would probly overheat with the higher power I am looking for, they and the guides will be replaced.

My oil pump also had some stiffness and the gears looked like something went through it at some time, I'll replace it with a GT3 model, I am told not much difference but an additional pickup.

I also planned on cleaning up the heads a little bit, new Alpha turbos, the infamous protomotive 5" intecoolers, intake and exhaust, the 997tt intake manifold, e85 fuel system and a few other go faster tricks that will get us somewhere between 800-1000hp.

We should be doing the build up in the near future and will be posting more as it happens. Cant wait to drive the Proto-monster when I am back home sometime this summer :-)

 

Congrats on the build, do you know the new lifter part numbers?

 

I dont, but let me see what I can find.

 

I was wondering what ever happened to your car? Thanks for the update!
GL
Robert