30K Service before or after winter?
#1
30K Service before or after winter?
My car will be under a cover for the next 6 months or so. It's also time for the 30k service.
It's been about 2000 miles since the last oil change.
Just curious if there would be any benefit to getting the service done and then packing it away? Or would it be more beneficial to wait for spring to get it all done.
Also, anything else I should be doing for winterization? I have a battery trickle charger that it will be hooked up to.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks,
M
It's been about 2000 miles since the last oil change.
Just curious if there would be any benefit to getting the service done and then packing it away? Or would it be more beneficial to wait for spring to get it all done.
Also, anything else I should be doing for winterization? I have a battery trickle charger that it will be hooked up to.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks,
M
#2
it's up to you...
I just had my 30K service done on my 2003TT for $1200 an indy, included oil change. Mainly, you get the spark plugs replaced, brakes bled and the car checked over. Since you won't be driving yours, you could defer the cost until spring. On the other hand, it never hurts to get it scoped out by the mechanics and fix whatever might be unseen at that mileage. If you have the P-car ready for spring, you can also rouse it before Puxatawny Phil issues his seasonal prediction.... also, you might consider some fuel stabilizer in advance of 6 month of hibernation....
#3
Most write ups I see on winterization/storage include the oil change prior to storage.
I also add about 10-15 lbs above normal tire pressure, mark the side wall with chalk on one tire where the tread is meeting the floor and every 2 weeks move the car forward or backwards about a foot to minimize the chance of flat spots on the tires.
Additionally, fill the gas tank, use Stabil following the directions on the label, open one window a crack, leave the handbrake off and car in neutral (I place a wooden block on either side of one tire).
Some write ups also say to put a rag in the exhaust to fight off mice, remembering to remove at start up time.
Hope this helps.
I also add about 10-15 lbs above normal tire pressure, mark the side wall with chalk on one tire where the tread is meeting the floor and every 2 weeks move the car forward or backwards about a foot to minimize the chance of flat spots on the tires.
Additionally, fill the gas tank, use Stabil following the directions on the label, open one window a crack, leave the handbrake off and car in neutral (I place a wooden block on either side of one tire).
Some write ups also say to put a rag in the exhaust to fight off mice, remembering to remove at start up time.
Hope this helps.
#4
Good stuff. I don't really have to worry about mice at my house.
I will have to move the car from time to time anyway just depending on if I need something out of the garage thats being blocked by the car, so I'm not too concerned about the tires.
Good point about not using the hand brake, but why not just leave the car in 1st?
Thanks again,
M
I will have to move the car from time to time anyway just depending on if I need something out of the garage thats being blocked by the car, so I'm not too concerned about the tires.
Good point about not using the hand brake, but why not just leave the car in 1st?
Thanks again,
M
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