USP Motorsports 996TT: Engine build thread
 

As most of you know, I’ve been relatively quiet on here with my 996 for pretty much all of 2011. The reason for this is because the motor has been out of the car for some time now, waiting for the opportunity to take it to the next level. Fortunately (unfortunately for my 996) we have been very busy at the shop this year and customer’s cars come first, so the project has been on hold for months. Well, I’ve finally managed to schedule in the upgrades and things are under way! I will be sharing all the pictures, progress, and results here in this thread.



My build will include the following:

Complete Ferrea Racing valve train components, including +1mm oversized intake / exhaust valves, titanium valve springs and retainers. The Ferrea gear will be complimented with a full port and polishing job on the head. The bottom end will be receiving a set of Pauter rods and we will be retaining the factory pistons. It will also be getting a complete gasket refresh while the engine is out.


For those that are unfamiliar with the car, some of the major modifications already on the vehicle are; K24/18G turbochargers, USP Motorsports turbo inlet pipes, USP Motorsports E85 Ethanol fuel system conversion, USP Motorsports intercooolers, USP Motorsports 3” performance exhaust, ported and coated manifolds, and USP/EPL tuning. Previously the car put down 720 rear wheel horsepower and ran a best quarter mile time of 10.27, and best mph of 146. Here is a little video compilation the 996 in a competition drag racing series - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVbZPSivCSs


We are going to put the car back together with the K24/18g’s on it for now, but of course I have bigger and better plans for the near future. On this setp with all the new headwork done, I am hoping to make close to 800rwhp. Stacked with the super quick spool up of the K24/18g’s, that should be a pretty deadly combination for the time being. Stay tuned for more!!


Here is a pic for reference of the car about 6 months ago in road racing form..


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images.../DSC_53981.jpg



And on to the progress and build pics..

Head work:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...413%20copy.jpg


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...431%20copy.jpg


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...435%20copy.jpg


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...462%20copy.jpg


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...479%20copy.jpg


Pauter rods:
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...515%20copy.jpg


Engine cylinders
http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...531%20copy.jpg

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...517%20copy.jpg

http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...543%20copy.jpg


http://www.uspmotorsports.com/images...711%20copy.jpg




Thanks for looking!
Chris Green

Did ya'll do the port work yourself? And something i've wondered, how do you install the second bank of cylinder and pistons with the flat 6 split case design?

Great pics!

Thanks for sharing this great build-up, this is amazing!

Looks amazing building,we'll like to see it finished is going to make good marks and numbers.

nice build and very nice vid of the races and overall class win!

Amazing!

i was wondering what you were up to lol. Good luck with you build chris and keep us udated.

I have a few questions, what did the pistons and sleeves look like when you took them out? Where any of the stock rods bent? Are you are running the stock oil pump and head studs? I also am a big fan of the stock pistons, but if you are using E85 why would you not raise the compression ratio? Nice head work, did you change to singe groove keepers?

Will you be using the stock cams? raising the rev limiter?
Good luck with the build Chris!

interested in this

This is why you needed my cores back! looking good chris!


Vinny

All the port work was done by a local machine shop. very nice work as you can see. building this motor is like a jig saw puzzle put it that way. way to much to type.

Alex, I am using stock cams for now Rev limiter will be the same 7500.

Vinny, Post up your inlet results come on!!!

Yah the work does look very good. Haha I figured it was, that's why I was so curious. Couldn't picture in my head how you would get to some of the bolts once its together.

Subscribed! This is going to be a fun machine!!!

Nice! Can't wait to see more pics/vids.

subscribing

looks good chris. i am also curious to see pics of stock rods. did you see any deformation or stress cracks from being at that power level for so long?

I am patiently waiting for the mad scientist to send me my results!

Pistons and sleeves looked good wen they came out, and 4 out of 6 rods seemed to have started bending. I'll be keeping the stock oil pump and head studs. Raising the compression would be nice, but I wanted to keep this build pretty basic.. its usually the basic setups that end up doing the best :) . Thanks for the compliment on the head work, I'm really happy with the guys work as well. Yes, I changed to single groove keepers.

Happy Wednesday gentlemen!

How long was the car abused for as in at this power level, as far as miles and etc. Eventually I want to do a basic rebuild, thanks for sharing.

Another good question for Christ from blockhead ? all this info will help us a lot.

Thank you very much Christ for your honest answers,we learn a lot from you.

+1, specifically would you recommend a possible rod bearing change interval? There is a problem with BMW S62 engine with rod bearings, seems that some people are perfectly fine, and others go out anywhere from 50-100K miles and spin a bearing. I am starting to see a trend of rod bearings needing to be replaced in higher performance engines, which only makes sense.

Chris, you mentioned raising the rev limiter to 7500rpm. When doing an engine build, how do you determine what is a safe rpm number for redline? What factors play into this determination? I know a number of tuners raise the rev limiter on stock cars when you buy their flash. Is that safe?

The 2 things one worries about when it come to RPM is the head and crank. If you switch to higher grade valves and valve springs and knife edge and lighten the crank, you will be able to increase RPM redline. I do not have the calculations to determine this directly, but most manufactures should be able to tell you what a safe redline for the valve train would be when adding the upgraded components. A raise redline is usually not a bad thing, typically manufactures will put the redline well below the actual engine threshold due to majority of people not understanding how engines work, therefore making the engines safer and more reliable. As most of you know, a lot of people have money, but not many have brains, and most manufactures know this haha.

Larry,
We rev'ed my motor to 7800 (limiter was 7850) when it was completely stock. We had no signs of broken springs or any valve float. We were surprised but it pulled ALL the way to the redline.

Looks VERY good Chris. I guess we are finally joining the cool kids crew!

you put alot of trust in that cheap table holding up your engine =)

looks good what kind of valves are those?
which bottome end bearings did you decide on? Porsche motorsports? or stock?

stock head gasket?

Im surprised that 4 of the rods were bent. How bent were they?

im not have you seen what a stock 996tt rod is? its the same as the NA 993 rod


this has been happening over and over just no one has been talking about it.

Hey Chris, I'm curious to know how your rods looked like when you opened the enngine...

Wow that is kind of scary. I wonder what mine rods look like... How much does it cost to change the rods?

hilariousi bent 5 ouf of 6 rods when i rebuilt mine:D

hilarioushilarioushilarioushilarioushilarious

1 rod angle. 2 rods and rod bolts 3 weight of valve train. I run 8000 rpm redline but shift as soon as my torque peak is ideal for the next gear

You are so right with the basic thing.

What about going from a dual mass flywheel to a LWFW, does that allow for safe higher rpm limits?

subscribed .. awsome

Makes no difference. It is piston speed. the sharper the rod angle the fast the piston accelerates in the bore. At a given speed the piston material will hit its pasty temp and stick to the sleeve. That right there is game end. No oil can save you.

Sorry, I'm not clear on what you mean. What is "pasty" temp? Also, if it depends on piston speed, wouldn't a LWFW allow for quicker piston speed?

keep up the good work Chris...I just ordered a strut bar from you guys...I'm doin my part to help on constributing to your build hilarious!!!

P2P i have a similar set up as you do,K24/18G'S Fabspeed 1' generation 200 cel cats,DV but i still am in AWD.My question is have you ever dyno your car ? .Here in El Salvador there is only one place to DYNO and is not veru thruthfull that's why i haven't done it.

Your WHP would be similar to mine,not exactly because you have RWD and another variables.

Rolando