What makes the best shine
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: South OC
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Here's a way to test your paint for particles. Take a piece of cellophane (like around a cigarette pack) and place it over your fingers. Gently run it over your paint (after it has been washed) and you will feel the crud in your paint.
After you have cleaned your paint with the clay bar, try it again. You will be amazed at the difference.
Disclaimer: doing this will put fine scratches in your paint, so be ready to polish and wax afterwards.
After you have cleaned your paint with the clay bar, try it again. You will be amazed at the difference.
Disclaimer: doing this will put fine scratches in your paint, so be ready to polish and wax afterwards.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Florida
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This stuff is GREAT!!!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...i_sku=89013169
use a very light compound before you use the liquid glass.
-Ed
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...i_sku=89013169
use a very light compound before you use the liquid glass.
-Ed
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: In front of you right now.
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I truly respect Griots and have had some success with their polish/wax products, and while I have bought more than my share of their products, I prefer Zaino at this point. www.zainobros.com
Lasts waaaay longer, and has a deeper and wetter look. By far. You can't go to Pep Boys to get it. You need high quality microfiber towels. You need to use liquid Dawn soap to start from scratch, then clay, then Z2, Z5 etc. You won't need a Porter Cable or other random orbital since it's all easily hand applied. High humidity makes it a bit more difficult, so your location may dictate whether to go this route or traditional like Griots.
Lasts waaaay longer, and has a deeper and wetter look. By far. You can't go to Pep Boys to get it. You need high quality microfiber towels. You need to use liquid Dawn soap to start from scratch, then clay, then Z2, Z5 etc. You won't need a Porter Cable or other random orbital since it's all easily hand applied. High humidity makes it a bit more difficult, so your location may dictate whether to go this route or traditional like Griots.
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: N. California
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Griots simply repackages bulk products, with a smarmy write up and slick marketing.
People find it "safe" because all the labels are the same color, and they get hand-holding...but the underlying 'stuff' is what you get at pep boys or autopia or amazon.
Just MHO
A
People find it "safe" because all the labels are the same color, and they get hand-holding...but the underlying 'stuff' is what you get at pep boys or autopia or amazon.
Just MHO
A
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From: Portland Oregon
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I'll probably get crucified for admitting this, but I use Maguires products and I like it. I do not know enough about detailing to know what is good what isn't. The only not locally available product I use is my leather treatment.
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From: N. California
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^^ Nah. The truth is that the process (ie cleaning, clay, polish, etc) is more important than the material.
The other truth- when you go to various detailing forums and look at the videos and demo posts are that the people MAKING these are SELLING this stuff... so you see special wheel wash, special body shampoos, special windshield wiper cleaning brushes, etc, etc.
As with so many efforts, it is a game of diminishing returns once you get to the upper ends...
The other truth- when you go to various detailing forums and look at the videos and demo posts are that the people MAKING these are SELLING this stuff... so you see special wheel wash, special body shampoos, special windshield wiper cleaning brushes, etc, etc.
As with so many efforts, it is a game of diminishing returns once you get to the upper ends...
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Portland Oregon
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Here you go buy some of this wax:
Attachment 150839
Sorry its so small just keep clicking on the pic till u get a readable size.
Attachment 150839
Sorry its so small just keep clicking on the pic till u get a readable size.
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Joined: Nov 2009
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From: San Jose, CA
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NO!, the purpose of the clay bar is to pick up any small particles you can't see, only feel. Once you are done using it, throw it away. Synthetic wax like sealant glaze will give you a 'wet, mirror like shine as oppose to carnauba wax like P21S. I've read synthetic wax doesn't protect and last as long as carnauba wax. You will get a million opinions on what is best. I use both P21S and Klasse Sealant Glaze. Here is my mirror like shine with Klasse.
Nothing wrong with Meguiars.
For my usual details, if there is a little paint correction needed, I start with Meguiars #205 (Or #105 on areas with heavier swirls / scratches) using an orange buffing pad with a D.A. buffer. Gets the paint clear of swirl marks, light scratches, etc. Then a coat of Meguiars #21 Synthetic sealant. Park the car in the garage overnight, then the next day, I apply a coat of Carnauba Wax. I've been pretty happy with the P21S 100% Carnauba Wax.
I usually get my stuff from autogeek.
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My routine ... my cars are seal gray, silver, or white... (I don't own a black car anymore...) ...this is for an exterior detail only
- Wash wheels then go from top to bottom with ONR
- clay bar (I like pinnacle clay product and application lubricant, a quick detailer works as a clay lube also) .... I clay ONLY if the car needs it...it is not a mandatory step it depends on the surface contaminant content and distribution over the car's clear coat.
- All-in One application, Klasse is good for this, I am using Beckers currently, works out any light imperfections and has the depth of a hand glaze at the same time
- sealant - protect and shine, Manzerna FMJ is good here, as are Poorboys...there are several., I am using Beckers here as well
- wax if I really feel like it...this is purely for shine and depth...I like using a carnauba, pinnacle soverign is a great choice, P21S is nice also ...again several choices, once the sealant is down on the clear the wax used is an optional step (not really needed with sealant) the brand doesn't matter as much here, your protection and heavy work is done already, Mothers and Maguires are good here as well...again wax coat is simply an added step if you use a high quality sealant prior.
- Wash wheels then go from top to bottom with ONR
- clay bar (I like pinnacle clay product and application lubricant, a quick detailer works as a clay lube also) .... I clay ONLY if the car needs it...it is not a mandatory step it depends on the surface contaminant content and distribution over the car's clear coat.
- All-in One application, Klasse is good for this, I am using Beckers currently, works out any light imperfections and has the depth of a hand glaze at the same time
- sealant - protect and shine, Manzerna FMJ is good here, as are Poorboys...there are several., I am using Beckers here as well
- wax if I really feel like it...this is purely for shine and depth...I like using a carnauba, pinnacle soverign is a great choice, P21S is nice also ...again several choices, once the sealant is down on the clear the wax used is an optional step (not really needed with sealant) the brand doesn't matter as much here, your protection and heavy work is done already, Mothers and Maguires are good here as well...again wax coat is simply an added step if you use a high quality sealant prior.
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