As the title says, I am intermittently getting durametric code P1349 cam shaft bank 1 out of adjustment. I have searched and not found very much on this particular code. There appears to be no rhyme or reason, ie going over bumps, car wash, short trips. Sometimes after I clear it with the durametric scanner it will stay out for two weeks, sometimes it comes back in a few miles. The car runs great, and I personally cannot tell a difference when the check engine light illuminates. Car is a 2001 with 25000 miles on it. Mostly stock except for a speedtech exhaust and EPL tune. The code would pop intermittently before the mods, so I would preclude they are not the issue. As always thanks for any insight.

 

Could be the sensor or the connector on camshaft solenoid. Your durametric has the ability to capture an actual value on that solenoid. Hook it up and see what kind of reading you are getting in comparison to the right bank.

 

0-155.2

Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 – Below Limit

Diagnosis conditions

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Possible fault cause

Solenoid hydraulic valve is triggered, camshaft does not switch into
early position

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Affected terminals

Diagnosis/Troubleshooting

Note!
Work instruction Display OK If not OK

1 Check solenoid hydraulic
valve camshaft adjustment

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→End

 

Note: P1349 is a type 3 fault and the reading is below minimum....

 

Thanks a lot guys, I'll hooknthe durametric tomorrow and check the parameters, should in mirror bank 2 or just be similar? I will also check the connectors. If everything their checks out would the next step be to replace the solenoid. Also what's a type three fault? Rep to all for your help.

 

Type 3 can be consider as advisory. Frank (Sunnyside) already gives you the troubleshooting, you can start from there. IMo connector cleaning and good wiring inspection before solenoid replacement. But this solenoid is not easy to reach.... There is a guy on Renntech, (iceyankee-tsi), who did the troubleshooting by switching the solenoid with the other side, but in his case, it did not fix his fault....

 

"Porsches # 1 recommendation for cam actuator faults is to change the oil a few times. Making sure the oil is very clean.
After you’ve done that, you can swap the solenoids from left bank to right bank. If the bank 1 now has an error, then it’s the solenoid and you can change it. If bank 2 still shows an error, it’s the cam adjuster not the solenoid."

Similar to what everyone else is recommending.

 

DJM, I am with you on this, experiencing the same issue, same bank. Have not taken the steps to personally troubleshoot yet due to time constraints.

How has your car been running aside from the code?

Please keep us posted on what you try. I for one will be watching this thread very close.

Justin

 

Car runs great, no difference between when cel is illuminated and when it is out. I'm gonna change the oil twice and reseat all the connectors before I go further. Call me crazy but the Porsche troubleshooting posted above is helpful but a little Greek for a amateur like myself. What can be done if you dont have a oscope or special tool? My local Porsche dealer said they couldn't trouble shoot because I had a flash. Apparently a laymen like me is able to get further with durametric tool then a franchised dealer. No surprises there.

 

IIRC you can open and close that valve with Durametric when the engine is running. I would try cycling the valve open and closed a few times just to see if you can free it. ( might be a bit of dirt stopping the valve working)
The scope is used to show the ramping voltage ( back emf) when the oil pushes against the spring and more current is drawn to operate the valve
The scope just shows the effect of pressure V back emf ( induced voltage).
The display has to look like the one in the w.shop manual.

If cycling the valve doesn't work, do as already suggested and change the solenoid to the other bank and see if the fault moves to that bank. If so its the solenoid. If not it could be a bad wire/connector or a sticking cam mechanism.
Just a few ideas.

 

Thanks for the suggestions I appreciate it, I'll let you guys know what I find I should have time Tuesday

 

Pull your top cam actuator on that side and look for any metal stuck to the end of it. If there is any trace of metal, then the oil rings on the end of the camshaft are coming apart. Not a good scenerio. I've had a 996TT apart on my blog with a 1325 code which is a bank 1 signal implausible code.....not a pretty picture. The oiling feeds up to the top actuator.

 

I changed the oil, and only got about 60 miles on it so far, I wnet with pennzoil 5w-40 ultra because of their advertised cleaning properties. I will change it out when I get a couple hundred miles on it. I hooked up the durametric and I could activate the soleniod and detect aydible change in engine, so I think the solenoid works or at least most of the time. The CEL stayed off on my 50 mile drive but came on as I pulled into my neighbor hood. I exported it to excel for your review. I am thinking I might have to pull that cam cap off like doc has pictures and check to see if there is any metal. Does anyone know if I can does this with the engine in the car?

 

The durametric file is .xls or excel file and wont upload as an attachment, if anybody can help with that it would be much appreciated.

 

convert to pdf then upload? use dopdf, or other free tools to perform conversion.