Luckily was exiting an offramp when the engine cutoff. Battery showing a little over 12v and the lights and everything still working. I tried to crank it once I stopped and it would turnover and immediately cut out again. Just replaced the spark plugs and coil packs.

Is it likely the fuel system?

 

Hows the fuel level?

 

About half full.

 

sounds like your fuel pump.

 

Wouldn't necessarily leak if it went up, correct? No leaks that I can see. What am I looking at (roughly) if that is the culprit?

 

[QUOTE=Tiptronicus;3275854 I tried to crank it once I stopped and it would turnover and immediately cut out again. Just replaced the spark plugs and coil packs.
[/QUOTE]
What do you mean by just replaced... as in same day that it happened? if so then someone probably messed up the install... it is highly unlikely that it just happened after someone had hands in there... look at it logically...

 

About a week and a half prior. After flashing the ECU, I think the 10 year-old spark plugs were pushed to the limit and I threw a CEL after some misfires. Replaced them all and it was fine under heavy acceleration/high boost until now.

Hoping it doesn't dent the wallet too much, Mark - as I really want to buy that custom exhaust of yours we discussed.

 

thats why I preach always change your plugs and coils when flashing...

you need to see of you have any codes... probably the fuel pick up lines if fuel related...

 

make sure your fuel sending unit didnt go bad , you could of simply ran out of fuel . If the fuel sending unit is broken it will not register . Ask me how I know

 

Agree with Mark - last thing messed with is often the cause. However, the new flash is making your fuel pump work harder, so that is also a frequent follow-on problem.

If you have the original fuel pump, a lot of people have had failures where one of the hoses in the tank splits. You wouldn't be able to see that or smell it externally, but it sprays fuel around the tank rather than delivering it to the motor. It is pretty easy to check:

1. Discconnect battery
2. Remove 4 cap nuts on fuel tank cover inside front just in front of battery.
3. Take cell phone picture of top of fuel tank.
4. Remove electrical connector and three fuel connections.
5. Mark location of black screw ring and white cover with a sharpie pen.
6. Loosen black screw ring. You might have to put a screwdriver on one of the tabs and tap it with a hammer to get it started.
7. Gently pry out top, and use flashlight to examine hoses on fuel pump. Look for a black hose that is split - that is the one that usually goes.

If the hose is split, do a search here to find a DIY to pull out the fuel pump. There isn't much more to that, but the pix will be useful. You can get a replacement submersible hose from Gates. If this is it, PM me for the part number and I'll see if I can find it for you. It's kind of hard to find the same kind of hose clamps that they used on the original. I had my indie shop do that for me, as they also require a special crimping tool.

Reverse the steps to reinstall. Be careful to reseat the rubber seal around the white top to make sure it goes all the way back down. You'll probably be glad that you did steps 3 and 5.

GL,

Jon

 

Turns out it was a failed fuel pump. The hose was intact - but it wasn't working altogether.

 

You've already had it replaced then? There is an update on that using a different hose. I assume that you did check the fuel pump relay...

Jon

 

Got crunched at work..had to have my indy mechanic do it. I asked him about the hose specifically and that's what he told me. Yes, I checked the relay myself the day it happened trying to diagnose it.

 

glad for ya it was just the pump. as i understand it, the pump is in the tank ( or rather the line that fails? ) so theres nothing visible when it fails. just the situation you outilned. when mine went, it went as you described.

 

Well, glad that you're back in business. As these things go, it's not the most expensive thing that can go south on you...

Jon