996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

996tt - MAF (or not?)

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Old 08-14-2011, 03:57 PM
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996tt - MAF (or not?)

Hi All,

I have just signed up with the hope that the combined technical knowledge here may be able to help me.

I have a 2001 996 Turbo in the UK.

I went out in my car on Friday, it was running fine. On Saturday I decided to give it a wash and needed to move it on the drive. I started it fine, and then as I reversed and then stopped the tickover increased to 2000 rpm for a few seconds and then the ABS and PSM warnings came up on the dashboard. It then started to tickover really lumpy and was hunting a little. I stopped the engine and started it again, it started pefectly and for 1-2 seconds idled normally, then the ABS / PSM warnings came on and the tickover went really lumpy, the car was almost stalling. It didn't rev cleanly with small presses of the accelerator and did stall a couple of times. It also smelt very "rich" from the exhausts.

I have plugged in my Durametric and have a fault code P0102 (Porsche fault code 115 - Hot film MAF sensor) which when cleared immediately re-appears. I also have a code 5525:Incorrect data transfer with DME master control unit on the ABS module which will not clear.

I checked all of the visible cables to the MAF and all seem good with no visible damage. I also removed and cleaned the MAF with IPA solvent as this is something I have done in the past with other cars and it can improve them. However this morning it still has the faults when I put the MAF back in.

I have logged some values with the durametric on tickover and small throttle blips this morning. The values were.....

Mass air flow (HFM) - Sat at 0, never moved
Mass air flow (KG/H) - 32 at tickover, up to 110-115 at I blipped teh throttle to approx 1900-2000 rpm
Hot Film MAF (Volts) - Sat at 0.4 and never moved

Does this signify a dead MAF?

Are there any other things I should check for before throwing £200+ at a new MAF? Whilst its not a fortune to spend I would like to know that it isn't anything else that I can easily check before ordering one.

I have a multimeter and am capable of using it, is there be anything specific I could check to ensure its not a wiring fault etc?

- Do they really just "die" like this?

- Are there any fuses worth checking?

- Could it be an air leak that is drawing in air post MAF, or would some air still pass the MAF?

- Is there any reason that withn Durametric one of the MAF values increases / decreases with revs, but the other stays static?



Cheers
Darren
 
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