996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Introducing new member

Old May 1, 2013 | 07:44 PM
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Introducing new member

Hello everyone , I just signed up to the forums I'm going to start researching my hope to be next toy, I'm thinking a 996 997 , I have been away fr the car scene for a while, I was a really active member in the Supra community, had a MKIV with all the goodies 900 hp monster , I had to part w it a few years back. I want to start looking and learning about this platform so I can maybe down the road pick a new toy. I'm sure I will be asking a lot of questions and want to thank you all in advance for any guidance.
 
Old May 1, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Welcome! Good luck with your search!
 
Old May 1, 2013 | 10:14 PM
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Cheap 01 turbo, big turbos, lots if fuel, and floor it.
 
Old May 1, 2013 | 10:37 PM
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Welcome to the forum! You'll find plenty of info here and peeps who know the answers when you can't find them.
 
Old May 2, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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Welcome!!
 
Old May 2, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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Lgp927,

You will find a lot of Supra guys on this forum.

Below are some previous posts of mine that may be helpful.

A quick list of 911 turbo issues (don't let this scare you, they're just things to look for).

- The slave cylinder/accumulator failures
(If someone has replaced with 997 parts, it should be more reliable and a switch to the GT2 setup will fix this weakness permanently)

- 2nd gear pop out
(Usually caused by a missed shift. It's easy to check for when you test drive the car and if it doesn't have the problem when you buy it, it's no more likely to get the problem than any other car)

- Window regulators
(not an expensive fix, approximately $250)

- Shifter cables
(driven properly it shouldn't be a problem and there are several aftermarket solutions)

- Rear wing hydraulics
(This is what a fixed GT2 deck lid is for)

- Taillight tabs breaking
(These cars are getting old and the plastic gets brittle in the engine bay. Tail lights are approximatey $450 ea. and may only need replacement every 12 years)

- Basic oil leaks
(who's idea was it to put an oil cooler and all the associated oil lines on top of the motor under all the intake crap. They're not too bad.)

- Swaybar drop links breaking
(aftermarket drop links are around $175 rear and $250 front and you will never have to replace them again)

- Random smoking at startup (not a real failure and probably do to the fact the turbos hang below the motor, but embarrassing regardless) Replacing the small check valve usually helps the issue and they're cheap.

- Fuel tank that has issues being filled up
(It's a random issue and more of an annoyance than a real issue)

- Carbon fiber trim delaminating/cracking over time
(If it isn't an issue when you buy the car, then it's probably not going to be an issue)

- Factory NAV system in early cars basically useless due to no updates and the fact that you need a specific CD for your region of the country
(Any car with a stock headunit needs to be replace anyway)

- coilpacks/plugs
(A new set of 6 is around $350 and will probably last 60,000+ miles)

- MAF sensor
(A lot of people have no issue, but they are around $500 to replace. When you get a tune, there are more reliable sensors available)

- Front strut top bearings
(A typical wear item on any car with struts, but they are cheap)

- Damaged front diff if previous owner didnt use right size tires
(Again if the car doesn't have this issue, than normal maintenance and the right tire sizes will give you a long service life)

- Boost Leaks
(If the car is boosting to the appropriate level when you buy the car than it's at worst a minor leak, so check the boost)

- Leaking Diverter valves
(good aftermarket diverter valves can be had for $275

- Auto dimming mirror breaking intenally
(I believe you car have yours repair or buy an aftermarket replacement for $250)
 
Old May 2, 2013 | 08:11 AM
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Below is another post that my be useful.

I have owned 2 Supras. I put 40,000 miles on the first and 100,000 miles on the second. They have progressed to several different states of tune. From stock with just an exhaust, lowering springs all the way to a single turbo with full suspension, big brake kit and multiple wheel/tire setups.

I have driven these Supras on the road-course in all these different states of tune as well. As my mods were designed around a daily driver that was used 3-4 time a year on the road-course, my turbo was relatively small (63mm). The car made 540rwhp on a 93/100 octane mix and around 500rwhp on 93 octane.

I have only driven my 911 for approximately 5,000 miles, but I have already learned a lot about the car. My 911 have PSS10's with a GT3 rear swaybar, has upgraded wheels/tires and made 525rwhp, so it's pretty comparable to my Supra from a state of tune perspective and probably similar to what you have planned.

SUPRA ADVANTAGES
1. Space: Though the back seats have a little more room for kids in the 911 than the Supra, in general the Supra is a lot more spacious. Especially in the front seat area.
2. As people have stated, mods are much more reasonable
3. The Supra is easier to work on, especially after you have gone single turbo. Spark plugs can be change in 30 minutes or less.
4. Reliability: The Supra is just bullet proof. There can be issues with intercooler hoses and vacuum lines, but this is usually the case when these haven't been replaced in years. A simple upgrade to silicone intercooler hoses and vacuum lines and you not longer have anything to worry about. Though the 911 is a reliable car, it has quite a bit more issues. I know some people may disagree with this, so below is a quick list of 911 turbo issues.
- The slave cylinder/accumulator failures
- 2nd gear pop out
- Window regulators
- Shifter cables
- Rear wing hydraulics
- Taillight tabs breaking
- Basic oil leaks
- Swaybar drop links breaking
- Random smoking at startup (not a real failure and probably do to the fact the turbos hang below the motor, but embarrassing regardless)
- Fuel tank that has issues being filled up
5. You have the best Supra ever created, where as the 996 is a little bit of a 911 "red headed step child" (no offense meant to anyone).
6. Top end power: With a properly modded stock turbo wastegate spring or single turbo with an external wastegate, the Supra will pull harder and harder all the way to redline, where you can feel the 911 power tapers off.
7. Value doesn't take a hit with miles. You can actually drive the Supra and maintain the value if the car is maintained. The reputation for reliability has gone a long way. I sold my 130,000 mile Supra for $36,000.
8. Generally mods actually add to the value, where as potential 911 customers can be turned away with mods.
9. Brakes: Way more initial bites (with stock pads) and way cheaper to maintain. The 911 brakes take a lot more initial effort, though they are made from higher quality and technically better parts.

Now that everyone thinks I'm too Supra biased, here's the 911 list.

911 ADVANTAGES
1. Steering: Better feel, better weighting (though the Supra get better with 275 or 285 width front tires). The 911 really feels like a smaller, more nimble car
2. Interior materials: Though the Supra has a slightly better layout (imagine an armrest that you can actually rest your arm on. ), the 911's leather and suede with stitching etc. are much nicer and higher quality. The audio system and items like the steering wheel are much better then the Supra.
3. Looks: I know this is subjective, but I doubt even Supra owners will argue that the 911 is a classic shape that will always look good.
4. Bottom end torque: The 911 has so much more torque in the rpm range you actually use your car in (assuming it's a street car). This makes the 911 a much more entertaining daily driver. The Supra is much more of a on/off switch. Fun as a weekend toy, but not nearly as responsive as the 911.
5. Parts: There will always be parts made for a 911 as supplier know people will keep them on the road. There is also a lot more base 911's and Boxters with which we share parts than there are Supras. Getting exterior and interior parts is already starting to be a problem on the Supra and this is part of why I sold my Supra.
6. Traction: As you start making a lot of power with the Supra, traction becomes more and more of an issue. Turn up the boost and add an exhaust and 1st gear is useless. Add and small single and 2nd gear is useless. Add a big single and 3rd is useless. Rear weight bias and awd win, hands down.
7. The 911 feels like a more nimble car, partly due to it's much smaller front end dimensions. When you look out of the windshield and over through the passenger window, the 911 is just smaller and more intimate feeling.
8. Pride of ownership: With the 911, you own an automotive icon. The Supra is rare and unique, but at my age I was starting to believe people thought I was driving my sons car. You also have to spend time telling the "average Joe" how unique and fast the Supra is, where as all you have to say is 911 turbo and you're done.
9. With 3.6 liters (vs. 3.0) and 9.4:1 compression (vs. 8.5:1), the 911 will make a much better power curve on pump gas. As an example, my single turbo Supra made around 490whp and 450wtq on pump gas where my 911 made 525whp and 515wtq.
10. Weight: Though the 911 and Supra are similar in weight in stock form, the 911 appears to be a little easier to lighten up (especially if you're willing to go rwd).
11. Did I mention it's a PORSCHE.

Conclusion:

The Supra can be easily built into an amazing car with serious capabilities, but it will become more of a weekend toy and less of an enjoyable daily driver. It will also never get the respect the 911 has earned.

The 911 is just a more refined supercar with no need for heavy mods to be entertaining. The Supra is a great platform, the 911 is a great car.
 

Last edited by Steve Jarvis; May 2, 2013 at 08:20 AM.
Old May 2, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Welcome to the 6 !! The wealth of knowledge on this forum is awesome. Do lots of reading and searching, you can usually find the answer, if not just ask. Enjoy your journey, take your time and get something that you want.
 
Old May 2, 2013 | 03:44 PM
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Thanks man I really appreciate all this info !!



Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis
Lgp927,

You will find a lot of Supra guys on this forum.

Below are some previous posts of mine that may be helpful.

A quick list of 911 turbo issues (don't let this scare you, they're just things to look for).

- The slave cylinder/accumulator failures
(If someone has replaced with 997 parts, it should be more reliable and a switch to the GT2 setup will fix this weakness permanently)

- 2nd gear pop out
(Usually caused by a missed shift. It's easy to check for when you test drive the car and if it doesn't have the problem when you buy it, it's no more likely to get the problem than any other car)

- Window regulators
(not an expensive fix, approximately $250)

- Shifter cables
(driven properly it shouldn't be a problem and there are several aftermarket solutions)

- Rear wing hydraulics
(This is what a fixed GT2 deck lid is for)

- Taillight tabs breaking
(These cars are getting old and the plastic gets brittle in the engine bay. Tail lights are approximatey $450 ea. and may only need replacement every 12 years)

- Basic oil leaks
(who's idea was it to put an oil cooler and all the associated oil lines on top of the motor under all the intake crap. They're not too bad.)

- Swaybar drop links breaking
(aftermarket drop links are around $175 rear and $250 front and you will never have to replace them again)

- Random smoking at startup (not a real failure and probably do to the fact the turbos hang below the motor, but embarrassing regardless) Replacing the small check valve usually helps the issue and they're cheap.

- Fuel tank that has issues being filled up
(It's a random issue and more of an annoyance than a real issue)

- Carbon fiber trim delaminating/cracking over time
(If it isn't an issue when you buy the car, then it's probably not going to be an issue)

- Factory NAV system in early cars basically useless due to no updates and the fact that you need a specific CD for your region of the country
(Any car with a stock headunit needs to be replace anyway)

- coilpacks/plugs
(A new set of 6 is around $350 and will probably last 60,000+ miles)

- MAF sensor
(A lot of people have no issue, but they are around $500 to replace. When you get a tune, there are more reliable sensors available)

- Front strut top bearings
(A typical wear item on any car with struts, but they are cheap)

- Damaged front diff if previous owner didnt use right size tires
(Again if the car doesn't have this issue, than normal maintenance and the right tire sizes will give you a long service life)

- Boost Leaks
(If the car is boosting to the appropriate level when you buy the car than it's at worst a minor leak, so check the boost)

- Leaking Diverter valves
(good aftermarket diverter valves can be had for $275

- Auto dimming mirror breaking intenally
(I believe you car have yours repair or buy an aftermarket replacement for $250)
 
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