Saw a post that says NOT to bleed GT2 converted clutch by pumping the pedal.
What is the correct way?

Assume:
Attach Motive power bleeder to reservoir
Pump motive to ~10psi
Crack open bleeder valve (maybe 7 or 8mm) with hose and catch container attached
Let fluid drain until done.
Tighten bleeder valve and remove hose
Remove Motive bleeder and top off fluid in reservoir
Done

DOT3/4 fluid

Where is bleeder valve located? I was looking up front - couldn't see ****. Is it in the rear?
Thanks

 

i used the motive bleeder with NO fluid in it. connect it to the reservoir when full pump it up to 10 psi and then at the slave is the bleeder. 8mm i think. the motive filled with air will push the fluid thru the master to the slave. i attached a hose to a catch can and open the bleeder for a few seconds. close it go back up front and check the level. refill as needed. do this until no bubbles come out. then depress the pedal a few times and recheck the bleed for air.

hopefully BEFORE you installed the master cyl OR the slave you ran a pint or so of dot 4 fluid thru the lines to push any residual petosin out of the system.if not it can damage the new parts down the road as petosin is corrosive to the dot 4 seals. dot 4 NOT dot 3 should be used

 

Thanks!
Will try the Motive, dry
Gotcha on the DOT4, good catch.
Previous owner had the conversion done - hopefully they did a good flush (as I am the 'down the road' owner). Have been smelling some burning clutch smell a few times the last week and my clutch pedal feels 'gritty' at times now. Hoping a flush will take care of it.
Based on the crap work the previous owners shop had done with other components, I am expecting the worst.

 

since the slave only purpose is to engage and disengage the pressure plate and clutch assy via the clutch fork its unlikely this is the cause of burnt smell. once you let out the pedal the slave is no longer in use. burnt smell= burnt clutch but i think you know that already

remember the reservoir is small so dont bleed for to long or all you will do is introduce more air into the system. i do about 5 secs then close it and check the level. shampoo rinse and repeat as much as needed

 

You can use the standard pump and bleed method. The only reason they say not to is because the line is super long due to the rear engine, it is a pain in the *** to get it primed when empty. If your line is allready full of fluid then go ahead and do it the old school way.