wow great info/post. probably took longer than the install lol. rep pts.

 

update on ride height:


Using brand new OEM top hats, and KW's maximum allowable ride height in the front, results in 25.25" from the ground to the fender. In other words, these things sit pretty low. The rears are both sitting at 25.25" with 1 1/4" of exposed threads in the rear, YMMV.


I still get pops at low speed near full-lock turns, it's the sway bar drop links as others have stated. I am shopping those now and as much as I'd like the extended Taretts, I probably will steer towards something simpler and more economical since it's only a road car now. If I was tracking it, definitely would love that improved geometry.




about three and a half hours of head scratching and careful thinking on the front left... followed by one hour to do the other three corners after that!

 

If its tarret stuff I'd suggest you hit up pwdrhoud in here. Not only is his knowledge top shelf, iirc he's a dealer of some of those components so what you may still need may well be "affordable".

BTW.. A bit ot? But I noticed in your original post you mentioned some common " crunching " that has been known to occur, and you alluded to "thrust bearings"? Which has me confused as I am trying to identify/isolate a front end sound best described that way, but have never heard of any bearing other than a wheel bearing up front.

Could you possibly elaborate_clarify if you could? Appreciate any info on anything at all that crunches up front as I am experiencing some!
TIA.

 

when you turn the steering wheel and the tie rods pull on the hub/knuckle/upright, this turns the strut assembly but the top mount (hat) remains fixed to the chassis. This means that there needs to be some part that allows for articulation of the coil spring or you will get binding. The OEM Porsche top mount uses a thrust bearing which is captured between the mount and a metal plate which serves as the upper spring perch, and this allows the steering to move without binding the spring. OEM part number for this bearing is 99634350100.


Judging by numerous posts on this site and my own experience with similar bearings on other cars, it's a common point of failure due to the nature of its job (absorbing every bump, loading of the front suspension, and movement any time the steering is used). Additionally it has plastic components and road grit and grime can make its way to that location, accelerating wear. Based on my own experience with other cars, if this bearing degrades, you may feel increased steering resistance, hear crunching or scratching sounds as you turn the wheel (particularly in very low speed situations like into parking spaces, reversing out of drives, etc), or hear small clunking events as the bearings are moving in and out of the race where they shouldn't.


If you are on OEM suspension, if these bearings are bad, it's probably safe to say that your upper mounts are next. Since those bearings are ~$50 ea and the mounts no cheap bargain, it may be best to simply upgrade to a reinforced pillow ball type mount, if you can live with the extra NVH.


In KWs case they use a semi-sealed bearing integrated into the LOWER spring perch and the top remains fixed, and this problematic bearing is eliminated.

 

x'lnt info, thanks. pwdrhound is also recommending i go with pmna or taretts? mono's and if i did the added nvh is well,. its a canyon car so all i hear is noise.. but this is greatly helpful. i can't get under the car with help until next week but this seems on point and i really appreciate the input/help. i'm just afraid this will mean a re-do of ALL my suspension bits which i've been avoiding since half converting rwd. this may ( happily ) force me into gt2/3 uprights/axles and coil overs etc. it's more than i was needing since i just did ALL this to my gti last week. thankfully it was vw $ and not pcar $.. but thats what i get for having old sh*t lol

but thx again! that i understood. can't rep ya 2x one day

 

I really cant answer questions about front drop links yet because I have not done them. However based on what I can see, the issue is with short drop links (that mount to the pinch bolt). These are the ones that you need to run a curved version of... someone correct me if I am wrong. The only ones I have seen that fit this bill are the TRG and Rennline. However, my KW V3 use their own longer drop links and I am going to call Ira Tarett and see if he has any specific knowledge to my setup on an AWD car and see what he says.


I would love to convert to RWD but right now I will probably wait until I have the coin for Guards 60/40.

 

yeah, btw pmna and trg can't imagine anyone would need better parts. i'm not at the level of drop link noise, and I've been messing around with the car btw posts about it today ( what else ) and i dont think its major. not yet anyway..a pal suggested checking the lca's also.( they got bushings?! ).. i'll just drive myself crazy guessing until i get help..

and..i hear you re: rwd/costs etc. i cheaped out and went with a wavetrac tbd lsd.. mostly after calling guard and pricing etc, and the fact it might some day need rebuilding the plates? steered me away from a proper guard lsd as overkill for my daily shenanigans. but wavertrac; it's incredibly suited to the car rwd and only 1200 bucks if folks knew how dramatically it changed this car, more would use it. especially on a dual duty car, that is mostly street driven. anyway.. its funny..its as if my tt knew i just lavished the vw with all new suspension, and is paying me back days later. unbelievable ha

 

I hate bumping old topics, but since I am selling my car I want to "tie up any loose ends" I have with the projects I did with this car which I will miss so dearly. Figured I would add the final info to this thread in case anyone finds it via searching in the future.


I ended up going with the extended Tarrett drop links in front and they were awesome, perfect fit. The clunk I had was caused by a loose strut mount and was easily fixed. Car has been perfect since, no issues.

 

What ride height did you ultimately settle on F & R? Hub center to fender lip, or at Porsche chassis measuring points. I have KWV1 and like them a lot but am still sorting my ride heights since removing my front diff, shaft and axles. I went taller tires as well, F&R so I'm starting over and trying to find a good low height with proper rake for great quick handling and high speed stability too.

 

I believe I'm right around 13.5 to 13.25 from center of hub to the top of the wheel arch. I'm not sure what that translates to in terms of Porsche's ground-to-body measurements.

 

Wish I read this before installing.

 

I ended up doing this as well. At first my drop links did make contact, but I spent more time shimming the setup, and now it is perfect. I don't get any binding, nor any contact with anything lock to lock. I can grab some pics, my car is on my lift with the wheels off at the moment, but it is -2F outside. I'll wait for a thaw.