Winter & Engine Temp
And yes once I backed off and drove at 70 mph the gauge temp returned to normal pretty swiftly 15-20 secs.
Last edited by Terminator; Jan 2, 2015 at 01:50 PM.
Thought 22F is +5C not -5C, just googled 22F in celsius but didnt pay attention to the "-" in front... So my experience is at +5 maybe a bit lower... not -5, so just forget what I said, but I still doubt our engines will warm like 20C in 15seconds.. But did some pulls @ -5C till 170mph with my 335i, nothing wrong with those runs
Operating properly the thermostat will close and not allow hardly any coolant to circulate to the radiators and will instead circulate within the engine itself. You aren't going to get so much cooling from the airstream that engine temps drop like that with a properly operating thermostat IMO. Datalog your IAT, I bet it's warmer than you think. Something isn't right!
Safe? Your engine will richen the mixture thinking it's in warmup at the very least. No idea what the rest of the components might be doing but IMO it's not a great idea.
Safe? Your engine will richen the mixture thinking it's in warmup at the very least. No idea what the rest of the components might be doing but IMO it's not a great idea.
Thought 22F is +5C not -5C, just googled 22F in celsius but didnt pay attention to the "-" in front... So my experience is at +5 maybe a bit lower... not -5, so just forget what I said, but I still doubt our engines will warm like 20C in 15seconds.. But did some pulls @ -5C till 170mph with my 335i, nothing wrong with those runs
The question remains. Is it safe to keep on pushing with gauge indicated temp of 115 F albeit car being properly warmed up before it happens?
Operating properly the thermostat will close and not allow hardly any coolant to circulate to the radiators and will instead circulate within the engine itself. You aren't going to get so much cooling from the airstream that engine temps drop like that with a properly operating thermostat IMO. Datalog your IAT, I bet it's warmer than you think. Something isn't right! Safe? Your engine will richen the mixture thinking it's in warmup at the very least. No idea what the rest of the components might be doing but IMO it's not a great idea.
At 200MPH your engine should be producing plenty of heat and more than a few RPM. It's possible your pushing the thermostat open and I certainly wouldn't consider it "normal" and dismiss it. The thermostat is what regulates the engine temp and your's is falling below it's target temp.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...ensor-install/ At 200MPH your engine should be producing plenty of heat and more than a few RPM. It's possible your pushing the thermostat open and I certainly wouldn't consider it "normal" and dismiss it. The thermostat is what regulates the engine temp and your's is falling below it's target temp.
That's quite a long time to get the coolant up to operating temp. Mine gets up to temp within a few minutes with easy driving. If I had to guess, your T-stat is stuck open or partially stuck open. Should be a pretty cheap and easy repair if you DIY.
Reason I ask, is there's a chance the radiators had not seen any real heat yet and the cooling mass of the 'cold'/frontal cooling system brought the engine temps down quickly, not a thermostat fault per se, it is doing it job by opening from high-engine temp demands, but will not respond quickly enough to exactly regulate system temp at ~180*. 30L cooling system + accurate gauge= wild swing.
Hope that made sense.
Try the same run again but with milder acceleration and see what it does.
Hope that made sense.

Try the same run again but with milder acceleration and see what it does.
Reason I ask, is there's a chance the radiators had not seen any real heat yet and the cooling mass of the 'cold'/frontal cooling system brought the engine temps down quickly, not a thermostat fault per se, it is doing it job by opening from high-engine temp demands, but will not respond quickly enough to exactly regulate system temp at ~180*. 30L cooling system + accurate gauge= wild swing. Hope that made sense.
Try the same run again but with milder acceleration and see what it does.
Try the same run again but with milder acceleration and see what it does.
Temp issues is my past (not in the porsche) was caused either by:
malfunctioning thermostat
malfunctioning waterpump
air in the system
wrong coolant type or too much water in the mix.
I don't think I read any details on your coolant type or level, check all that before looking into thermostat. How many miles on the clock?
malfunctioning thermostat
malfunctioning waterpump
air in the system
wrong coolant type or too much water in the mix.
I don't think I read any details on your coolant type or level, check all that before looking into thermostat. How many miles on the clock?
UPDATE:
I observed this on the fly. I cannot talk about accuracy of the gauge. All I know is that my car runs without issues. As car was idling in the garage (warm) fans came on at the right temperature! So thermostat is working! This is an issue in below zero ambient super-fast driving condition only.
Yesterday, I went out again and did "below- zero" run again. I couldn't get to 170+ mph (traffic & not on the autobahn) but managed 150 mph. Up to 150 mph temp is rock solid at 176 F. But the needle on the gauge dips just a bit to the negative at 150 mph (I am guessing 165). So, it seems that the cold weather does something to the cooling of our cars in below-zero environment. My question still remains... is it safe to push our cars in such condition when the engine temp is reading below normal operating temperature?
I observed this on the fly. I cannot talk about accuracy of the gauge. All I know is that my car runs without issues. As car was idling in the garage (warm) fans came on at the right temperature! So thermostat is working! This is an issue in below zero ambient super-fast driving condition only.
Yesterday, I went out again and did "below- zero" run again. I couldn't get to 170+ mph (traffic & not on the autobahn) but managed 150 mph. Up to 150 mph temp is rock solid at 176 F. But the needle on the gauge dips just a bit to the negative at 150 mph (I am guessing 165). So, it seems that the cold weather does something to the cooling of our cars in below-zero environment. My question still remains... is it safe to push our cars in such condition when the engine temp is reading below normal operating temperature?
I didn't say it took 20 min. I drove for 20 minutes before I accelerated to 170 mph. Mine gets warm in 2-3 minutes in normal conditions too. But few minutes in 22 F (-5 C) :-0 ? I don't think so mate. It takes about 10. ;-).
I am thinking; thermostat temporarily stuck in open position, therefore over-cooling takes place as extra-cold air is pushing in via the rads? One of those (it-works-but-it-doesn't work) issues.
Will change thermostat first. It is 10 years old.
Will change thermostat first. It is 10 years old.
been following this, and though i also dont have much experience at sustained 170 lol while watching my temp gauge
but i would agree, keep it simple and swap out the t-stat. any 10+ year parts particularly "oft" replaceable ones such as a t-stat should begin there! you're right to swap it!..
and not for nothin. these cars are not at 178/182 op temp in a cpl minutes. thats for sure. try 7/10 mins! tell me if you can check your oil in a few minutes from a cold start esp in temps such as you've described. the gauge will tell that story. love that traffic limited you to only 150 though
nice neighborhood! lol.
but i would agree, keep it simple and swap out the t-stat. any 10+ year parts particularly "oft" replaceable ones such as a t-stat should begin there! you're right to swap it!..and not for nothin. these cars are not at 178/182 op temp in a cpl minutes. thats for sure. try 7/10 mins! tell me if you can check your oil in a few minutes from a cold start esp in temps such as you've described. the gauge will tell that story. love that traffic limited you to only 150 though
nice neighborhood! lol.




