996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Help Please,,Cold Start Up Problem

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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 09:52 AM
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is that a "soft code"? meaning it cleared itself?

my wag of the morning! 02 sensors bad?! who knows. no leaks, coils and plugs good. umm... geez, frustrating situation..i hate *unknown* cels.. argh. btw did you replace the battery.. ( yet? )
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:42 PM
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HI,, Yes battery was changed ,,read above posts..Thanks.


Hmm,, Now I was told to look a the secondary air pump and or its module..
But now that it is warm out its not doing the warning lights but still idles rough for the first 1 minute or so on cold overnight start up only.
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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i apologize john as it must appear to you i dont read them before i reply. i do and have, it's just i dont re-read them lol sorry.
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
i apologize john as it must appear to you i dont read them before i reply. i do and have, it's just i dont re-read them lol sorry.

HI,,No problem,,I appreciate the input. Thanks
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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did you check the coolant temp sensor ?Cold start fueling goes off the coolant temperature sensor.
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:02 PM
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HI,Thanks for your input.
It was brought up above on another members post. I was hoping it was the vacuum leaks..
Because of the weather getting warmer its not as bad to set the lights and memo off But still a rough idle for first minute or two.
I guess that would be the next logical place to try and hopefully the easiest to do?
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:36 PM
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Coolant temp sensor will effect overall fueling, you'll want to make sure it's okay even if it warms up and feels okay if that's the problem.
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 07:47 PM
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The car runs and idles perfect after 2 mins..Data logged the car when warmed up and it showed everything thing was fine..Runs great and strong and pulls 1.4 bar peaks
 
Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:23 PM
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Have you seen this regarding the throttle body gasket?

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ing-stall.html
 
Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cab83_750
Have you seen this regarding the throttle body gasket?

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ing-stall.html

HI,thanks for input.
Markski pressure tested and had throttle body off when checking and fixing vacuum leaks.
 
Old Apr 3, 2015 | 11:45 PM
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HI,,Does anyone know if the secondary air pump is suppose to make noises?
I hear short bursts of humming noises coming from the back of the engine bay on the passenger side also.
 
Old Apr 4, 2015 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by johnspeed
HI,,Does anyone know if the secondary air pump is suppose to make noises?
I hear short bursts of humming noises coming from the back of the engine bay on the passenger side also.
When the pump runs it makes noise. I can barely hear it in my 2003 Turbo. The one in my Boxster is more noticeable -- sounds like someone running a hoover vacuum off a ways. The pump runs and shuts off about the same time the idle speed drops and smooths out.

The secondary air injection system may have a problem but so far you have not reported any codes associated with the secondary air injection system.

Misfiring at cold start can be a coil problem -- my Turbo does this when I leave it out on the rain overnight. (Next time I have it in I'll have the coils replaced.) For your car you report the coils were replaced not too long ago, so unless the coils were not installed correctly or are not the correct ones it is not likely to be the coils.

Misfiring at cold start but not when warm can be a temp sensor problem. Either the engine temperature (coolant temperature) sensor is reporting too high a temperature or the intake air temperature sensor (part of the MAF) is reporting too high a temperature.

AFAIK, you have not yet checked the temp sensor readings right at cold start while the engine is acting up. You want to look for readings that differ from each other and from ambient.

Just a heads up: It is important to when the check engine light comes on to read the active and pending codes and write these down. You should have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer plugged and ready to read the codes at all times. When I was trouble shooting what proved to be bad O2 sensors in my Boxster the sensor was only bad for a few moments after 30 minutes of driving. I had a heck of a time trying to catch the thing acting up. And if I shut off the engine then restarted it the sensor seemed to require another 30 minutes of driving.

Oh, if you suspect O2 sensors, with the proper OBD2 code reader/data viewer you can activate O2 sensor tests and possibly ID any questionable ones. Back in Jan this year on a drive back from the mid-west my Turbo was throwing CEL codes (well, one) and it was pointing to a sensor. I didn't bother with the test though. All I did was when I got home was to book the car in for 4 new sensors. Then a day or so later took the car to get smog checked. It passed with flying colors.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Macster
When the pump runs it makes noise. I can barely hear it in my 2003 Turbo. The one in my Boxster is more noticeable -- sounds like someone running a hoover vacuum off a ways. The pump runs and shuts off about the same time the idle speed drops and smooths out.

The secondary air injection system may have a problem but so far you have not reported any codes associated with the secondary air injection system.

Misfiring at cold start can be a coil problem -- my Turbo does this when I leave it out on the rain overnight. (Next time I have it in I'll have the coils replaced.) For your car you report the coils were replaced not too long ago, so unless the coils were not installed correctly or are not the correct ones it is not likely to be the coils.

Misfiring at cold start but not when warm can be a temp sensor problem. Either the engine temperature (coolant temperature) sensor is reporting too high a temperature or the intake air temperature sensor (part of the MAF) is reporting too high a temperature.

AFAIK, you have not yet checked the temp sensor readings right at cold start while the engine is acting up. You want to look for readings that differ from each other and from ambient.

Just a heads up: It is important to when the check engine light comes on to read the active and pending codes and write these down. You should have an OBD2 code reader/data viewer plugged and ready to read the codes at all times. When I was trouble shooting what proved to be bad O2 sensors in my Boxster the sensor was only bad for a few moments after 30 minutes of driving. I had a heck of a time trying to catch the thing acting up. And if I shut off the engine then restarted it the sensor seemed to require another 30 minutes of driving.

Oh, if you suspect O2 sensors, with the proper OBD2 code reader/data viewer you can activate O2 sensor tests and possibly ID any questionable ones. Back in Jan this year on a drive back from the mid-west my Turbo was throwing CEL codes (well, one) and it was pointing to a sensor. I didn't bother with the test though. All I did was when I got home was to book the car in for 4 new sensors. Then a day or so later took the car to get smog checked. It passed with flying colors.

Hi,,Thank you for your input.
The secondary air pump sound seems to kick on intermediately when it is warmed up .
Yes the dealer and Markski kept track of the codes during there checking it out when they arised,,Misfire in all cylinders.
The temp sensor will be the next swap..BUT I do have a question in regards to it in my situation,, since it only idles rough/bad when in the first 1 to 2 minutes of complete cold start up at high idle then when it drops in idle speed after that its as smooth as silk>> SO does the coolant really get that warmed up in that 1 to 2 minute window?
Of course when its colder out, 30s it does idle longer worse to set lights off most of the time.
Thank You.. Happy Easter to you and yours.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by johnspeed
I do have a question in regards to it in my situation,, since it only idles rough/bad when in the first 1 to 2 minutes of complete cold start up at high idle then when it drops in idle speed after that its as smooth as silk>> SO does the coolant really get that warmed up in that 1 to 2 minute window?
Of course when its colder out, 30s it does idle longer worse to set lights off most of the time.
Thank You.. Happy Easter to you and yours.
what i believe is happening when it idles down and in your case smoothing out is the ecu is switching fueling maps probably to something leaner which is why it most likely idles better.
 
Old Apr 5, 2015 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by joetwint
what i believe is happening when it idles down and in your case smoothing out is the ecu is switching fueling maps probably to something leaner which is why it most likely idles better.
Thanks.. Question though , wouldn't it be worse then if it was rich when its warmer and not an overnight cold start?
Its only trips the cells and memo message when its cold out,,30s and under.Thats when its idles the worse ..If it was rich that would help that cold start better?
So do you still think , since I explained it better in the above post that it still could be the Temp Sending sensor..
Thank again..
 


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