Tyres Or Brakes?
I had to say the sitting on brakes thing, see too many new guys come off the track holding the car on brakes in the pits 
Haven't heard of someone heat treating used brake discs before...don't think it would be a solution for you anyhow.
Haven't heard of someone heat treating used brake discs before...don't think it would be a solution for you anyhow.
I went to a simple organised event on a fast canyon road. Stayed on street tyres. Pirelli P Zero’ Rosso - newish. Also, newish brake discs as well (8K miles on them). Brakes superb but on my third application (coming from 120mph to 60mph) I got a slight vibration through the steering wheel only (no pedal vibration). Few braking applications later it got worse. Then after a fast no braking section of the road on next 2 applications I got no vibration only to return on the next application again.
So this vibration comes and goes!
On the way back home I tried hard braking on the motorway and I’ve had no vibration on three attempts. On fourth it manifested this time only slightly again.
Tyres or brakes? Am I overheating the brakes? Warped rotor would surely vibrate all the time? Is it possible that tyres would flat spot only to return to normal 500 metres? I don’t recall this on Michelins PS2’s.
Anyone has this?
So this vibration comes and goes!
On the way back home I tried hard braking on the motorway and I’ve had no vibration on three attempts. On fourth it manifested this time only slightly again.
Tyres or brakes? Am I overheating the brakes? Warped rotor would surely vibrate all the time? Is it possible that tyres would flat spot only to return to normal 500 metres? I don’t recall this on Michelins PS2’s.
Anyone has this?
I recommend moving to a proper heavy duty race pad for track use.
If the vibration is in the pedal, there is a chance the discs are warped if they are the stock 1 piece discs.
The turbos are harder on brakes than the GT3s upgrading brakes is important on these cars.
We have good pad options for these cars so PM for more information.
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To close the thread as solved...
My tech's findings:
I had my brakes changed (OEM parts) just before I went to the Nurburgring. I only did 3 laps at 9 min plus per lap. Not super fast by all means.
1. Porsche centre in Germany changed my rotors and pads just before I've taken to the track. They did this BADLY! They had to put insert into the bottom right hand side calliper bolt hole as they ruined the thread when unbolting the calliper. This however wasn't done properly so my calliper was mounted back ever so slightly crookedly, by 1mm.
2. My pads were totally hardened from overheating the brakes on the ring and were most probably only grinding the rotors from that point onwards.
Can't be sure what cused intermittent vibration either 1 or 2 or combination of the two but the calliper hole was now properly mended, calliper mounted straight as donkey's hind leg and I am vibration free.
Careful with undoing those callipers at the rotor change. If they were overly tightened by some idiot you will strip the thread. 8nm is the proper torque value.
Ps. Stock OEM brakes are not suitable for the track. They are cooked very quickly indeed. You don't even have to try very hard.
Ps. Pad photo. 8k km (5k miles) 3 laps at the ring. Normal street driving. One spirited canyon road run. :-0.
My tech's findings:
I had my brakes changed (OEM parts) just before I went to the Nurburgring. I only did 3 laps at 9 min plus per lap. Not super fast by all means.
1. Porsche centre in Germany changed my rotors and pads just before I've taken to the track. They did this BADLY! They had to put insert into the bottom right hand side calliper bolt hole as they ruined the thread when unbolting the calliper. This however wasn't done properly so my calliper was mounted back ever so slightly crookedly, by 1mm.
2. My pads were totally hardened from overheating the brakes on the ring and were most probably only grinding the rotors from that point onwards.
Can't be sure what cused intermittent vibration either 1 or 2 or combination of the two but the calliper hole was now properly mended, calliper mounted straight as donkey's hind leg and I am vibration free.
Careful with undoing those callipers at the rotor change. If they were overly tightened by some idiot you will strip the thread. 8nm is the proper torque value.
Ps. Stock OEM brakes are not suitable for the track. They are cooked very quickly indeed. You don't even have to try very hard.
Ps. Pad photo. 8k km (5k miles) 3 laps at the ring. Normal street driving. One spirited canyon road run. :-0.
Last edited by Terminator; May 7, 2016 at 02:58 PM.
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