Second gear pop out doesn't happen from flooring it. It happens on deceleration in second gear. Go to a decline hill and put it in second gear and let off the gas and let the rpm drop down.

 

From Cervelli Tech Services:

Great news! The car appears to be in wonderful shape. As of right now my tech doesn't see anything that the vehicle needs.

Couple of notes on the car:

-Front brake pads: 8MM
-Rear brake pads: 9MM
-Alignment appears to be in good shape, the tires look fairly new and do not have any signs of odd wear.
-We checked the pinion for the output shaft of the transmission (the reason we are rebuilding the other 996TT's transmission) and it looks like it's in great shape, no play.
-We pulled faults and there were none stored.
-Fluid level and condition all look great
-Serpentine belt is in good shape.
-Suspension is night and tight, no play in any of the joints or bushings.

Overall the car is in great shape, minus the dent that you had noted we can't find anything wrong with it at this time!

 

Over revs and type?

 

They didn't find any codes.
Seems this car has been babied. Only issue is the spoiler failure light. I'm hoping that can be fixed with new micro switches. I'm not seeing any fluid leak

 

Well, congratulations. It's a heck of a 1st Porsche. Hoping the inevitable little post-purchase surprises are small.

 

just based upon their language it sounds as if you have a reputable/knowledgeable shop helping you. the over revs would've been readout from the dme. it gives you some idea as to how many times the car has hit the rev limiter or been over redline ( type two ) etc. it;s helpful to know as it also records the "hours" and time of the over rev "events" ( when ) and length of time in "over rev" territory.

your spoiler needs to be re-bled at the minimum, but if that didn't work, ( for one reason or another..) you should look into dave's "e-ram" kit @ rennkit.com which as more and more people learn of, is sure to be a huge success. it's ( as i understand it? ) a brand new and recently patented device, that eliminates the necessity of messing with ( as this will be continual over the life of ownership..) and will fully eliminate the "hydraulic" features and components of the original equipment, which ( basically ) su*ks.

gl w the car! sounds like a winner.

 

Cervelli has a good name here for sure. They are more of a race shop than service.
I did see those e ram kits. They look nice, price is decent too. I am going to try the switchs and possibly bleed the system. I hear of some people adding stop leak. Any thoughts on the stop leak?

 

Well I did pull the trigger today and drove her home even with snow covered side streets ( feeling a little guilty about that )

She is all tucked away in the garage until this stuff melts off.

Thanks for all the imput.

 

x'lnt. i use a shop much like that here also when stuff can't be done in my driveway at night with beer. but daves rennkit is the bomb. i am particularly enamored of the 4" lift kit with the extra fast deploy ( there is actually a choice available! ) and i WILL end up with one simply because it's "the thing to do".

having said that, in 8+ years of owning two 996 turbo's i have rebled my spoiler(s) twice, the last time as recently as two weeks ago, and the last one lasted five years with nary an error light. so, what do i think about "rebleeding" them? well, if my roughly 749 posts on the topic won't help answer that? then, perhaps this will:

1. Open rear deck-lid with spoiler in down position
2. Put towels/plastic over the engine to keep fluids from dripping onto engine or body parts.
3. Remove approx. one dozen bolts that retain shroud/fan to deck-lid
4. Loosen and remove 4 retaining acorn style nuts that hold pump onto shroud
5. Cut tie wraps that retain electrical wires and hydralic lines so pump can be removed
6. Lift pump off shroud, loosen and remove banjo fittings on driver's side of pump watch for fluid to leak out and catch in a paper towel or rag. I held pump with channel locks for a good hold while loosening
7. Remove the positiive and negative wires on the opposite end of the pump.
8. Unplug sensors on passenger side ram carefully as they are sensitive. They are under a plastic cover that pulls off
9. Turn pump upside down in proper waste recepticle to empty the fluid remaining
10. With 12 volt power source, connect positive and negative to pump connectors. You will feel the torque and hear the pump motor turning, have a towel ready to catch any remaining fluids
11. With pump in hand, slowly add fluid. The Lucas product has a snout that you can cut and place into recpticle. This took approx. 20 minutes of adding, waiting for it to seep into pump, add more, wait, add more, etc...until bubbles stop coming up. Pump should then be full
12. Carefully attach banjo fittings with pump held upright. A small amount of fluid will seep when attaching banjo bolts
13. Torque the banjo bolts snug
14. Place pump onto shroud, tighten acorn nuts and connect wires
15. Connect sensors to ram (I used a tie wrap to hold sensors in place)
16. Place shroud in position on deck lid and snug up the dozen bolts
17. Tie wrap the electrical wires to the shroud
18. Actuate spoiler from dash with key on to see if you get the warning light


lol. gl with the car if you get it, and welcome! if it's your first!

 

Congratulations!
One day with the car before putting it away, what a tease. Hopefully you weren't on the boost too much so you won't know what your missing.
I literally have separation anxiety from mine right now.

 

Well that sounds fun. Haha. I think I'll try the switches 1st (with fingers crossed)

 

oh yeah, barrel of laughs hah..but good luck. if it doesn't do it? try dave's e-ram kit here @rennkit.com

enjoy the car, congrats. heck of an xmas gift!

 

Haha. I did drive it today to meet with a PDR guy. Fixed no problem. Now since I don't really want to drive it, I'll get to work on the spoiler.

 

Amazing car for the money!!! You Sir got a GREAT deal. Enjoy to the fullest.

 

Thank you. I will. I'm already looking into some mods. ☺