Thanks man ordering gasket today!

 

Leak fixed! What a pain. I had to remove both coolant lines off of water pump housing to gain access. The key is ensuring no debris including coolant stays out of your chain tensioner as you compress it before bolting in.
I had to loosen the drivers side oil feed line at the turbo and the support bracket in order to reconnect to chain tensioner cover. Do not push or lever off of chain tensioner cover as you seat this oil line! I think that's how it started leaking - ooops! The two 10mm bolts are only torqued to 8-10 lbs.

 

Glad you got it. Strange that gasket failed. Let us know how you like the new setup.

 

Thanks to you and Sam for your advice! Will do my friend! I thought I was running well with the tune and Wagner's. I think I'm going to be very happy!

 

rep to you for taking on the wrenches and not giving up! we need more guys to get dirty hands and see what happens when you own a 13yr old rocket and mod it! congrats

 

Your very welcome pal! Now for the fun part!

 

Well I did a boost leak test through turbo compressor inlets and have air rushing out of drivers side pre turbo line that goes up to check valve #16.

I have ordered and will keep checking as I fix them! Is there any benefit to testing from lower IC hoses instead? I followed Markski's protocol thus far. Thanks guys for your support!

 

Ok guys this is what I've done so far...
1. Upgrade to 5 bar FPR
2. Sams Alpha k16 billet turbo upgrade- friggin awesome!
3. Oil feed pipe replacement- PITA
4. Chain tensioner gasket replacement - PITA
5. Check valve 16, n75, oil pressure sender, all new quality band clamps (oem crap leaks)
6. Replaced intake plenum after breaking a vacuum nipple - Thanks Rob!
7. Boost tested again. Replaced F pipe hose clamp to quality band clamp.

I finally got her on the road this afternoon. Boosts very solidly and rapidly. I saw 1.4-1.5 bar then it fell on its face a couple times like the ECU intervened but only at WOT at that boost level.
I let Sam know and he thinks we need to adjust the WGs a little. I saw a good diy on doing it through the control valve vacuum lines. I need clarification on exactly what line to tap in to. This pic was on the thread. Gonna use a Mighty vac.


Thanks guys for all your previous help! You and Sam helped me build this car!

 

Well your out of the woods bud! I would start with going to zero preload and then one turn past it. They are brand-new so I can tell you that's going to get you pretty darn close for now. At least we can see how it reacts to that. Who knows what the shop did. Yes you can test it with a mighty back but I'm willing to bet you Setting it at zero preload +1 mm or one full turn is going to measure out to about 13-14psi cracking pressure. I was on the dyno today but I can walk you through it tomorrow buddy.

 

Thanks Sam! That sounds good. Amazing how much better the car runs! I didn't drive for long as I was a little concerned with the overboost. Power is amazing! I'd recommend this set up to anyone that wants solid gains and reliability.