Stock 996TT vs tuned 996TT
 

Not the usual question of how much more power or torque.

My question is the impact on running costs.

Obviously if I use the performance to the full, it'll cost a lot more in consumables and wear will be higher, also I may end up in jail.
This will apply to the stock and tuned car.

What if I'm driving normally, perhaps on a long road trip, I don't want to end up with a car that only manages 150 miles before it needs refilling.

Will the tuned be similar to stock on fuel (when driven normally) ?

Tuned - think K16 billet turbos, free-flow ic, larger injectors and ecu map to suit. Say 600whp.

Thanks

It won't cost you any more just cruising around. You will need a new clutch. There is much more risk of breaking stuff too, you have to pay to play! If money is a concern I don't advise getting into modding cars, that is for sure.

I have a modified car w/ everyone done except turbos. I still see over 25 mpg on nice long road trips, I take the car on several thousand mile excursions and have no issues. Taken care of it will be just as reliable as stock. Just quicker to get there.

I'm looking for my first 996TT - I've seen modified ones for sale. I'm trying to ascertain the downsides. I'm going to stick with either stock or modified ones from reputable shops.


Thanks

Also, what are your thoughts on the X50 pack. Worth the extra ? Or better to save that money for a free flow exhaust and a remap ? I assume a X50 with the same mods will yield better results of course.

Agree with s65e90. I also got only a tune and exhaust and it transform the car completely! I did these mods 6 years after I bought the car and it simply feel like a new car. This hidden power has to be used and I love it!

I have a mildly modded X50. The extra umph of the K24s allowed me to get to the max HP allowed by the stock injectors easily (intercoolers, exhaust and a tune). However i think that the K24 turbos create a lot more resonance with aftermarket exhausts. I have switched back to a stock exhaust because i could not take it anymore and i am tolerating the loss of top end and spool that comes with it. the K24s also have more lag. Not a big deal on the track but could be a big deal to someone that is into sporty street driving. I think the biggest draw for the X50 option is resale value (kind of silly but true).

I'm custom Cobb tuned by Sambo with 100 octane + Kline 2.5" exhaust, no other engine mods on my stock K16 '02 Turbo. It's not too loud and it's not very laggy either.

I can easily knock down 23-25mpg on the CA freeways at 65-75mph. Car runs and drives just like stock, only it's got 100 more hp and 100+ ft lbs of torque. I'm inclined to change the plugs every 15K miles vs 30K, but other than that, no impact to running costs (other than the obvious 100 octane @ $7.87 / gallon).

My stock clutch is holding up just fine, but in full disclosure the previous owner had it replaced at 40K miles, so it's still very fresh with only 13K miles on it.

I think a mild tune would make no real difference, except for the clutch wearing a bit faster if you push it a lot. In stock form, it feels like this engine is barely working to produce the power it does.

I've had tunes on several cars in the past. I currently have a GTI that had a stage 1 tune all its life and it had zero impact; 112k mi now.

+1 on the mild mods, keep it simple you should be fine. I also have Cobb and Kline, with 13k miles, everything else is original. No issues. It's tempting and very easy to fall into the addicting world of mods, kind of like drugs. Choose wisely.

If I do get it tuned, it'll be mild. An exhaust and a remap at most. Unless I get one that already has the K16, big IC and injectors of course.

How can I be sure an X50 car is really X50 ? I've used VIN decoders, that info doesn't seem to be there.

I have Mafless tune, Sambos K16 Billets. 4.5 Inch intercoolers and 1000cc Cobb injectors. Car runs like stock, still delivers decent fuel economy and just needs plugs more often. And it is WAY faster than it was when it was stock. Modding these cars is like serious addiction...be careful.

The Frunk sticker will have the X50 code if it's there.

When I was searching for my Turbo 3.5 years ago, I looked at and drove both K16 and K24 X50 cars. In my opinion, the K24 cars were definitely softer on the bottom end / midrange compared to K16 cars. In the end, I chose a car based on previous owner, maintenance history, overall condition, and a little bit of luck.

A well tuned K16 car with exhaust is a helluva lot of fun to drive!

If you plan to mod for power, one of the best advantages of the X50 is that you can have the compressor wheels upgraded to the 18G Wheels for a minimal expense and with typical supporting mods there is virtually no lag and a ton of power to be enjoyed. It's fast. Mine trapped 133 in the 1/4 mile and was still pulling very hard. And that was with the Mitsubishi 18G wheel, not the newer 18G billet version. Many of the fast 1/4 mile cars are only trapping in the 120's. K24's are a great turbo to mod. on the 996TT and very drivable. IMO, no lag issues to be concerned about - pure fun.

What he said, sticker under the (front) hood (or bonnet for the UK guys :D ) . It lists all the options the car came with (including X50 package)

frunk bonnet sticker or not? just feel up under the rear q panels and see if the intercoolers are smooth or rough to the touch like "cheese or carrot graters" lol. If rough? the car has the gt2/x50 ic's.

But boost levels should also tell you i.e. 0.7 on stock k16s vs 0.9 on a stock x50 car w k24s. Max is 0.9 on stock k24's. Not counting occasional .1 spikes.

I have most all bolt on's and tuned etc with old school k16/24 hybrids and I'm at approx 475+ rwhp and can still manage 25 mpg on a flat road in 5/6 gear. But only while navigating past LEO's. "Bolt on mods", tunes and the like, contribute nothing to the premature wear of parts ( not including tires ) or to less gas mileage.

Only drivers do.

Thanks for the response guys, most appreciated.

I'll prioritise condition and maintenance over options.
All things being equal I'll go for the X50, otherwise it'll be stock if it's a better car.
I'm not going to pay a premium for one though.

That sounds pretty reasonable...I don't think anyone here has any regrets with our own non X50 cars.

Good luck in your search. It's a helluva car!
http://i66.tinypic.com/9hswnn.jpg

seems to me that modded cars don't go for a premium so if you can get a good one, that hasn't been tracked, go for it. These are very easy cars to get dramatically improved performance over a stock or even x 50.

I got mine after driving a friend's chipped x 50. It was thrilling. I then tested a regular x 50 and it was great but not as thrilling.

I ended up buying a modded 04 with most of the 700 package on it and it was also chipped. K 28's, 1.4 boost, upgraded clutch, suspension, lowered, and after market exhaust and wheels. It's a beast, most fun I've ever had in a car and scary fast accelaration, throwns me back in the seat and I have to really hold on to the steering wheel tight. I haven't driven it at automatic jail speeds. but I don't have to because the power from second to third and third to fourth is fairly intoxicating.

has some issues with clutch accumulator (twice) don't know if it has anything to do with the added power. and I don't track it. My recommendation is that a modded 996 turbo is alot of bang for the buck, especially since there's no premium, so far.
good luck

it doesn't. such is the nature of a system designed for people that were light in the clutch foot loafers.

just disengage the clutch switch requiring "clutch in" to start. no more accumulator issues. just remember to l/r the gearshift to ensure you're in neutral, pre-ignition.

I recall a recent discussion about that switch, which I think I initiated. wasn't there some deep dark engineering reason why that couldn't work or wouldn't be the case? car's in the shop now for some other issues. will ask about it. thx.

i'm sorry, i don't understand your question? but i stand my my earlier suggestion.

if you disable the clutch "switch" at the pedal, that requires you engage the clutch with the engine off in order that you may start the car? you will eliminate the main cause of premature clutch accumulator issues, and be happier for it. just do it ;) and GL.

I have read - unsubstantiated rumors - that the clutch switch retards timing and de-sensitizes the e-gas pedal to make getting moving from a stop easier.

I think I'd have noticed by now, if that were so.

This switch does not exist on ROW cars! Only an north american cars....No function other than having to depress the clutch pedal for start.....

just a view. glad you clarified with think. Would I be making a bad assumption in assuming your 996tt is stock. On my twin turbo cars, stock has been rubbish compared tune alone and who gives a toss about mpg. but reckon waste of time just doing a tune on a turn of the century twin turbo euro. Eg Custom tune and exhaust with hi flow cats as a minimum and the results are night and day difference. e.g. put increase in hp / tq aside, night and day difference in throttle response in any gear. Then there's early spool and boost hit.

As a boost junky, who gives a toss about fuel economy compared to that insta boosting hit you get and 996 gt3 ish note out of the mezger when your over 5000 rpm. With an exhauat

But not all tunes are alike. DYOR

I went from stock to stage 2 OTS COBB TUNE and Kline Exhaust with 100 cel hjs cats and thought night and day difference to stock. Then a couple of weeks ago sat back to back in my car then in a umw custom tuned 996tt with Kline exhaust with 200 celL CATS and from a butt dyno experience the umw felt like a good 15% up on power / boost hit / pull through the rev range. Owner of the umw car felt a good 20% behind the wheel of both. Eg bit difference between circa 0.7 bar then 1.0 bar then circa 1.2bar

PS compared to stock form a Kline exhaust particularly in a tunnel vs stock is an absolute night and day difference with the window down. I think you need to move from think and go get a custom tune and exhaust if you don'. already have one. Just a view but what a waste of coin if you enjoy driving buying a 996tt and not running a tune and exhaust and foregoing that one or two or 5 mpg loss. Each to their own.

exhaust and remap will get you the same MPG as stock if you don't use the throttle that much.

Personally, I think the best 'deal' is to get one modified by a person or shop that you trust that doesn't have any deferred maintenance.