rear toe links
#17
02-21-2018, 09:36 PM
I just lowered my car to GT2 height with H&R springs. i was unable to get the proper toe and camber at the same time. So i set the camber to the minimum i could get at -1.3 deg and then i installed the Elephant racing eccentric bushings in my existing toe arms to make them shorter and allow me to adjust my toe properly (to get enough toe out). The eccentric bushings work but the adjustable toe arms would be better and easier to adjust. I had considerable difference between side to side and was just barely able to get it all in spec. With adjustable toe ares it would have no problem.
this is the only add on you will need. internet lore included.http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-002.htm
#18
02-21-2018, 09:40 PM
I just lowered my car to GT2 height with H&R springs. i was unable to get the proper toe and camber at the same time. So i set the camber to the minimum i could get at -1.3 deg and then i installed the Elephant racing eccentric bushings in my existing toe arms to make them shorter and allow me to adjust my toe properly (to get enough toe out). The eccentric bushings work but the adjustable toe arms would be better and easier to adjust. I had considerable difference between side to side and was just barely able to get it all in spec. With adjustable toe ares it would have no problem.
this is the only add on you will need. http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-003.htm
#19
02-21-2018, 10:34 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: California
Age: 68
Posts: 265
Rep Power: 45 
For normal driving and depending on how low you go, the toe links or eccentric bushings are required on "most" cars to be able to get the alignment right. Get the alignment right (reasonable street/track values below) and it is 90% of the tire wear battle. The solid thrust bushings and monoball parts start making more of a difference when you push hard and start tracking the car. I track my car occasionally and drive a long freeway commute every couple of weeks and i am at 14K on my PS2s and still have a track day or 2 left in them. -.6 camber up front with 1/8" toe in and -1.3 camber in the rear with 3/16" toe in. My toe readings are the difference between the tread from the front of the tire to the rear. You can check your alignment with a tape measure, the right length stick and a descent cell phone with the inclinometer app (or a bubble level and the use of trig).
#22
02-21-2018, 11:37 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: California
Age: 68
Posts: 265
Rep Power: 45
The eccentrics Vs threaded is not just an accuracy issue but an ease of adjustment. The eccentrics are a pain in the a$$, especially when aligning yourself where you need to raise and lower the car to adjust and and measure. The other benefit of the threaded toe links and possibly threaded dog bones, is being able to have a track alignment and a street alignment documented that is so many turns of this or that and you can switch between the two.
#23
02-22-2018, 05:22 AM
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Syracuse, NY
Age: 42
Posts: 347
Rep Power: 31
Originally Posted by 993GT
OP, is your 911 a commuter car or a Porsche?
#25
02-22-2018, 06:12 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Age: 42
Posts: 12,874
Rep Power: 578 There are MANY options for both in various varieties of price point, you do not need adjustable rear thrust bushings (single hole/centred are perfect)
stock rear LCA with non-adjustable solid thrust arm bushings and inner monoball inserts and you're set...no need to over-mod
plenty of options out there, including some from RL/6SO members
stock rear LCA with non-adjustable solid thrust arm bushings and inner monoball inserts and you're set...no need to over-mod
plenty of options out there, including some from RL/6SO members
Is this what i'm looking for?
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...001-detail.htm
and then these for the rear (non adjustable)?
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...a01-detail.htm
Goals, will be 90% street driven, want to get down about 1.5-2" from stock (about 1" lower than my PSS10's are now)
Car has about 70K Miles on it currently, was curious if there are also any bushings I should be replacing with OEM/Aftermarket....I've already done the front top strut mounts
Last edited by HotRodGuy; 02-22-2018 at 06:16 AM.
#26
02-22-2018, 06:19 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Age: 42
Posts: 12,874
Rep Power: 578 This is the Porsche Motorsport RSR stuff, front tie rods w/ bump, LCAs, rear toe arms w/ bump, rear thrust arms w/ anti-squat. Infinitely adjustable, top quality German made race parts, not much else to say..
For street use and normal lowering, there is really no reason or need for anything beyond that's on the car stock. Maybe put in solid T/A bushings in the rear. The rear LCA monoball inserts will be a maintenance item especially for car driven in the rain. Pretty much all the aftermarket monoballs are low grade FK or Aurora and dont hold up long term. Years ago I ran them and was replacing them every other year. I would never ever recommend adjustable dog bones. Even 996/997Cup cars use the same parts as the street cars. If you can't get your car aligned with stock dog bones, you're doing something wrong.
For street use and normal lowering, there is really no reason or need for anything beyond that's on the car stock. Maybe put in solid T/A bushings in the rear. The rear LCA monoball inserts will be a maintenance item especially for car driven in the rain. Pretty much all the aftermarket monoballs are low grade FK or Aurora and dont hold up long term. Years ago I ran them and was replacing them every other year. I would never ever recommend adjustable dog bones. Even 996/997Cup cars use the same parts as the street cars. If you can't get your car aligned with stock dog bones, you're doing something wrong.
But maybe the solid thrust arm would be worth it. But i'm curious why everyone says non adjustable vs adjustable. And just do the rear correct?
#27
02-22-2018, 06:25 AM
yup that's the stuff!
I've been running my current monoball inserts for about 60k now, no issues and car is DRIVEN! lol
I have no reason to tell people they don't need toe-links for alignment (I sell Tarett products...), if people are having issue getting their car aligned and it's not hard-tucking tire, probably have an issue elsewhere (extremely low camber value, accident damage, bad subframe bushings, etc)
2" lower from stock is getting pretty damn low...
I've been running my current monoball inserts for about 60k now, no issues and car is DRIVEN! lol
I have no reason to tell people they don't need toe-links for alignment (I sell Tarett products...), if people are having issue getting their car aligned and it's not hard-tucking tire, probably have an issue elsewhere (extremely low camber value, accident damage, bad subframe bushings, etc)
2" lower from stock is getting pretty damn low...
Is this what i'm looking for?
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...001-detail.htm
and then these for the rear (non adjustable)?
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...a01-detail.htm
Goals, will be 90% street driven, want to get down about 1.5-2" from stock (about 1" lower than my PSS10's are now)
Car has about 70K Miles on it currently, was curious if there are also any bushings I should be replacing with OEM/Aftermarket....I've already done the front top strut mounts
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...001-detail.htm
and then these for the rear (non adjustable)?
http://www.tarett.com/items/986-987-...a01-detail.htm
Goals, will be 90% street driven, want to get down about 1.5-2" from stock (about 1" lower than my PSS10's are now)
Car has about 70K Miles on it currently, was curious if there are also any bushings I should be replacing with OEM/Aftermarket....I've already done the front top strut mounts
#28
02-22-2018, 06:28 AM
alignment looks good to me, if you monoball/solid LCA thrust you can 'tighten' your toe-in numbers
#29
02-22-2018, 06:31 AM
non-adjustable is nice for rear as it's set and forget, majority of people probably don't want the added complication of axle positioning/squat values, fronts adjustable to nice to tune caster (which also controls fender rub for street guys)
this is good info, i drive rain or shine. And last thing i'd want to do is have to be replacing them yearly/every other year. Would it be worth replacing the original OEM with new OEM?
But maybe the solid thrust arm would be worth it. But i'm curious why everyone says non adjustable vs adjustable. And just do the rear correct?
But maybe the solid thrust arm would be worth it. But i'm curious why everyone says non adjustable vs adjustable. And just do the rear correct?
#30
02-22-2018, 06:32 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Age: 42
Posts: 12,874
Rep Power: 578 yup that's the stuff!
I've been running my current monoball inserts for about 60k now, no issues and car is DRIVEN! lol
I have no reason to tell people they don't need toe-links for alignment (I sell Tarett products...), if people are having issue getting their car aligned and it's not hard-tucking tire, probably have an issue elsewhere (extremely low camber value, accident damage, bad subframe bushings, etc)
2" lower from stock is getting pretty damn low...
I've been running my current monoball inserts for about 60k now, no issues and car is DRIVEN! lol
I have no reason to tell people they don't need toe-links for alignment (I sell Tarett products...), if people are having issue getting their car aligned and it's not hard-tucking tire, probably have an issue elsewhere (extremely low camber value, accident damage, bad subframe bushings, etc)
2" lower from stock is getting pretty damn low...
well 2" is a # in my head, i know my PSS10's on hte car are as low as they should go and i want to be lower. But I never owned the car with stock suspension.
But you and I are similar in we drive everywhere and anywhere (we follow each other on IG)
