What are your goals? The guys who pushed their head gaskets on racewears don't post up about it and don't want it to be talked about.

 

Goals are an engine which can withstand 750-800 crank reliably. Its a built 3.6 motor, the only issue is this head sealing. As he's already paid once to have the cases split, new bearings and shells etc he is loathed to have it all disassembled again to machine for 12mm studs if he doesn't have to... I can see his point as he's already paid once, and now paying again...

 

Did you see my post? Why not look into heat cycling the motor on the stand before it gets re-installed? Sounds much easier.

 

If you can't find the Evoms 10's then you are going to have to go to 12's to be reliable. Anything else and you are taking a chance. Just the way it is.

 

Doesn't ARP make custom anything you want? Did you try them?

 

The ARP material isn't better than stock. The A1 studs somehow have some unique material that is stronger. The studs on these motors are really long as they go through the head as well as the cylinder housing so it is hard to find studs that won't stretch. 12mm is around 53% bigger than 10mm when you do the math (πR^2) so it solves the problem.

 

Great idea, any info on how to do this? Has anyone done it successfully out of the car?

Would be great and answer a lot of problems for lots of people if it can be done!

 

yeah Tim and I built one before. he made adapters for water ports. rigged up a water heater. got the engine warmed up to about 200 degrees. I've used racewares a couple times. on my 996TT they held up stout for up to 900whp or around 30 psi. once I leaned on it 35-40psi it sent the gaskets right out - no orings. then I put it back together with O -rings and it held 1100whp no problem until I sold it.


on my 997 I made 1500whp on racewares and then head gasket blew after few k miles. using stock 3.8 GT3 gasket and small steel wire rings. now I switched to a composite gasket, big steel fire rings and custom made 10mm studs.


so really depends what you want to do and how much power you want to push. if its really 750-800whp I wouldn't hesitate to send racewares in there all day long. the build has to match the goals, the weakest link will always show.


there have been blown gaskets with just about every stud there is including arp, raceware, evoms 10mm & 12mm. people don't talk about any of them or they just don't make enough power to push them

 

I have the same experience on 996tt and raceware studs, all was 100% fine and did THOUSANDS of pulls up to 1.8-1.9bar on my last setup, gt3076s and about 900whp

Once I tried 2.1-2.2bar the heads went bananas

Refreshed the engine and runs like a champ on gtx2863s and only 1.3-1.6bar for now, but I am really confident can do 1.8-1.9bar safely again for a long time

PS: My tuner told me to keep her till 1.8bar, but I was too brave

 

Reviving a thread here to see if we got a final answer on re-torquing raceware 10mm studs after a heat cycle. I am going through and replacing stock studs next month and raceware 10mm seem to be the best. 650hp power goal so nothing crazy.

 

That will work, but for a re tourque you are looking at tearing it all back apart again, engine out, cams and baskets off, big deal. For that power level just use one torque.

 

raceware reliable up to 850whp and under 2bar of boost. no need to retorque.