What Should Be My First Mods..... ?
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wood boy i think i got 80 hp on my ecu and that was a unichip.. the euro pipe said 30 to 40 if it was 20 that adds up to ah ah ah 100 me thinks but it was a long time ago ..... you can reprogram for the dealer or remove in the unichip case takes 15 min..
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Originally Posted by iLLM3
Agreed! Tarek i know the car is nowhere near as edgy/raw and not even stick like my M3, but still driving is the key and i saw you were very scared driving my M3 when i let you. Listen, just because its an auto and easier to drive, learn its limits and dont be stupid, which i know you wont!
LOL, remember when i took you for a ride in the M3, and i was spinning 1st through 3rd (drifting and fighting the car while driving in a straight line??)
Its very possible just hard to think about. Just like anything, you can apply that to. I mean my turbo is WAYYY FASTERR then the M3, and it still bores me sometimes. Its either your a power hungry freak or not, and im glad you are on the lower end with being happy with what you have LOL!
PSS9's will suit your needs, semi comfort, lower ride height and better handling, all you!
LOL, remember when i took you for a ride in the M3, and i was spinning 1st through 3rd (drifting and fighting the car while driving in a straight line??)
Its very possible just hard to think about. Just like anything, you can apply that to. I mean my turbo is WAYYY FASTERR then the M3, and it still bores me sometimes. Its either your a power hungry freak or not, and im glad you are on the lower end with being happy with what you have LOL!PSS9's will suit your needs, semi comfort, lower ride height and better handling, all you!
Hey Ramone,
My pleasure... To answer your other stuff:
1)The diverter valves are hard to see but if you get "black" then you'll likely be fine in terms of them thinking they're modded. However anyone in the know can tell (the one in the picture is silver so don't get the silver one).
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=30
2)I know the GIAC flash cannot be detected by the PST2 (I have one here). The nice thing with the switcher is that you can have your "stock" file on there and that way even if they drive it they won't know.
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=18
3)Bosch FR6's are just the spark plugs (the 6 is the heat range). The factory uses BERU made plugs (from France) that really don't hold up too well on modded cars.
4)The SSK is a short shift kit to reduce the amount of movement for the shifter and it becomes a lot more precise:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=31
5)Hmm.. honestly that's a grey area. Technically your warranty would be void but they'd have to prove the mod caused a certain failure. Then again if you have the "stock" file
In terms of doing an X50 "after" the fact, that would still be "modding" so kinda the same problem.
My pleasure... To answer your other stuff:
1)The diverter valves are hard to see but if you get "black" then you'll likely be fine in terms of them thinking they're modded. However anyone in the know can tell (the one in the picture is silver so don't get the silver one).
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=30
2)I know the GIAC flash cannot be detected by the PST2 (I have one here). The nice thing with the switcher is that you can have your "stock" file on there and that way even if they drive it they won't know.
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=18
3)Bosch FR6's are just the spark plugs (the 6 is the heat range). The factory uses BERU made plugs (from France) that really don't hold up too well on modded cars.
4)The SSK is a short shift kit to reduce the amount of movement for the shifter and it becomes a lot more precise:
http://www.sharkwerks.com/products.php?pid=31
5)Hmm.. honestly that's a grey area. Technically your warranty would be void but they'd have to prove the mod caused a certain failure. Then again if you have the "stock" file
In terms of doing an X50 "after" the fact, that would still be "modding" so kinda the same problem.
Originally Posted by ramone
Thank you for your detailed response
I have some more questions for you if you don't mind...
Please excuse my ignorance because I don't know much about cars but am trying to learn.....:
1) Is there any way for a porsche dealer to know if you've done Chip tuning, or diverter valves ?
2) What are Diver Valves ?
3) What are Bosch FR6 plugs ? And my car is an '03 with 8,500 miles...
4) What is the SSK and what is a "Throw" ?
5) I really want to keep my warranty since I still have 3 years left on it. Is there any way to order the X50 package as an after sale option ? That way I would get an extra 30hp plus a 9ff exhaust (39hp) giving me an increase of 69hp respectively while still being able to keep my warranty. Does this sound like a practical solution ?
Thanks again for the help
I have some more questions for you if you don't mind...
Please excuse my ignorance because I don't know much about cars but am trying to learn.....:
1) Is there any way for a porsche dealer to know if you've done Chip tuning, or diverter valves ?
2) What are Diver Valves ?
3) What are Bosch FR6 plugs ? And my car is an '03 with 8,500 miles...
4) What is the SSK and what is a "Throw" ?
5) I really want to keep my warranty since I still have 3 years left on it. Is there any way to order the X50 package as an after sale option ? That way I would get an extra 30hp plus a 9ff exhaust (39hp) giving me an increase of 69hp respectively while still being able to keep my warranty. Does this sound like a practical solution ?
Thanks again for the help
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Originally Posted by ramone
You joker
+ I'd say wheel spacers to get the right "look" using OEM wheels
+ PSS9 suspension to dialin the "right" ride height (whatever looks good to you). Yes it needs to be done at a workshop but you won't change it so you don't need incar adjustment.
+ Your choice of exhaust (whatever sounds good to you) plus the ECU tweak to suit
That would be good for a first crack at modding your car. Forget about warranty, just enjoy your car how you would like to enjoy it.
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Originally Posted by sharkster
2)I know the GIAC flash cannot be detected by the PST2 (I have one here). The nice thing with the switcher is that you can have your "stock" file on there and that way even if they drive it they won't know.
Thanks
Originally Posted by ramone
When you say the "GIAC flash", is that an ECU program. ECU reprogramming is what gives you the greatest immediate gains on the TT right ? So You're saying that you have a reprograming for the ECU that can't be detected by the dealership ? How exactly does it work and what are the hp gains ?
Thanks
Thanks
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My take in order of execution:
1. If you have a manual transmission get a Short Shift Kit - Get the Porsche unit if you are worried about them voiding your warranty. The peace of mind is worth the extra bucks. This will reduced the amount of movement you currently have to do to shift. Should have been how the car came from the factory. Best mod for the $$ in my book as far as getting a better feel for the shifts.
2. Exhaust - These cars are just too quiet from the factory. You will gain a few hp, better sound; loose a few pounds from the rear of the car. Do listen to other cars setup and inside cabin drone (resonance) before you decide. Have in mind what you would like to do with the car (take it to the track or not) as there are companies that offer alternatives that allow you to remove parts of the exhaust to switch between high flow cats with straight pipes to the tips, a muffler, straight pipes from the turbos, etc…
Since your car is fairly new and does not have that many miles I would wait on the suspension changes until you get to drive other cars to get a feel for what you want and then buy accordingly. And, back to the future use of the car, also help you decide on an adjustable setup vs a fixed one.
The other mods I would recommend based on what I have seen/read in a few threads:
3. Diverter valves – this is a proactive/preventive part change. Factory units are prone to failure.
4. GT-3 front brake ducts, Rear GT2 brake ducts (Front Part No: 996-341-117-90 and 996-341-118-90) – this will improve the cooling to the brakes and it is a fairly inexpensive mod.
5. Pagid Orange Brake Pads – better stopping power. Not that our cars lack stopping power for driving around town…
6. LW Flywheel with a clutch package from Kevin at www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com. I got a chance to drive Tom’s car with this setup and it is awesome. There is almost no difference in feel from the stock setup in terms of pedal effort and it cuts down in rotational mass. Love it.
7. High Performance Silicone Intake Hose Kit – another proactive/preventive part change.
8. Software upgrade (flash, ECU programming, etc…) I have my concerns with this. Just personal issues while the car is still under warranty. So, in my case this is the last option on the list. A lot of folks here have done it, have not had issues with warranty… but I am leaving this for last. Also, in my case with the non X-50 option, I would want to do this when I move to another Turbo setup.
And then you get into the cosmetic changes:
9. Clear/smoked side markers – cosmetic change
10. Depending on the interior options you have and what you like you can add carbon fiber components (shift ****, emergency break handle, etc…)
I have been compiling a list of changes for mine here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=295374
Best of luck and enjoy it in good health!
1. If you have a manual transmission get a Short Shift Kit - Get the Porsche unit if you are worried about them voiding your warranty. The peace of mind is worth the extra bucks. This will reduced the amount of movement you currently have to do to shift. Should have been how the car came from the factory. Best mod for the $$ in my book as far as getting a better feel for the shifts.
2. Exhaust - These cars are just too quiet from the factory. You will gain a few hp, better sound; loose a few pounds from the rear of the car. Do listen to other cars setup and inside cabin drone (resonance) before you decide. Have in mind what you would like to do with the car (take it to the track or not) as there are companies that offer alternatives that allow you to remove parts of the exhaust to switch between high flow cats with straight pipes to the tips, a muffler, straight pipes from the turbos, etc…
Since your car is fairly new and does not have that many miles I would wait on the suspension changes until you get to drive other cars to get a feel for what you want and then buy accordingly. And, back to the future use of the car, also help you decide on an adjustable setup vs a fixed one.
The other mods I would recommend based on what I have seen/read in a few threads:
3. Diverter valves – this is a proactive/preventive part change. Factory units are prone to failure.
4. GT-3 front brake ducts, Rear GT2 brake ducts (Front Part No: 996-341-117-90 and 996-341-118-90) – this will improve the cooling to the brakes and it is a fairly inexpensive mod.
5. Pagid Orange Brake Pads – better stopping power. Not that our cars lack stopping power for driving around town…
6. LW Flywheel with a clutch package from Kevin at www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com. I got a chance to drive Tom’s car with this setup and it is awesome. There is almost no difference in feel from the stock setup in terms of pedal effort and it cuts down in rotational mass. Love it.
7. High Performance Silicone Intake Hose Kit – another proactive/preventive part change.
8. Software upgrade (flash, ECU programming, etc…) I have my concerns with this. Just personal issues while the car is still under warranty. So, in my case this is the last option on the list. A lot of folks here have done it, have not had issues with warranty… but I am leaving this for last. Also, in my case with the non X-50 option, I would want to do this when I move to another Turbo setup.
And then you get into the cosmetic changes:
9. Clear/smoked side markers – cosmetic change
10. Depending on the interior options you have and what you like you can add carbon fiber components (shift ****, emergency break handle, etc…)
I have been compiling a list of changes for mine here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=295374
Best of luck and enjoy it in good health!
Last edited by wachuko; Oct 14, 2006 at 12:12 PM.
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Originally Posted by WOODTSTER
first of all I do not believe ANY ECU/Exhuast give you 100 HP
(but that is another debate).
top mods.
1) Short shift kit (B&M or Porsche) cheap
2) Suspension (I like my Cross JIC for cost/benefit ratio)
3) Europipe Stage 2 quiet
4) ECU (do with exhuast and throw in the silly DV valves)
5) GT3 seats
Now you still have a nice/refined (no drone, not too loud) sports car
that will take on just about anything in ALL AROUND performance.
Good Luck!
Marty K.
(but that is another debate).
top mods.
1) Short shift kit (B&M or Porsche) cheap
2) Suspension (I like my Cross JIC for cost/benefit ratio)
3) Europipe Stage 2 quiet
4) ECU (do with exhuast and throw in the silly DV valves)
5) GT3 seats
Now you still have a nice/refined (no drone, not too loud) sports car
that will take on just about anything in ALL AROUND performance.
Good Luck!
Marty K.
Marty a reflash on an X50 car will get you almost 100 Rear wheel HP. Stage 4 Giac
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Originally Posted by wachuko
My take in order of execution:
1. If you have a manual transmission get a Short Shift Kit - Get the Porsche unit if you are worried about them voiding your warranty. The peace of mind is worth the extra bucks. This will reduced the amount of movement you currently have to do to shift. Should have been how the car came from the factory. Best mod for the $$ in my book as far as getting a better feel for the shifts.
2. Exhaust - These cars are just too quiet from the factory. You will gain a few hp, better sound; loose a few pounds from the rear of the car. Do listen to other cars setup and inside cabin drone (resonance) before you decide. Have in mind what you would like to do with the car (take it to the track or not) as there are companies that offer alternatives that allow you to remove parts of the exhaust to switch between high flow cats with straight pipes to the tips, a muffler, straight pipes from the turbos, etc…
Since your car is fairly new and does not have that many miles I would wait on the suspension changes until you get to drive other cars to get a feel for what you want and then buy accordingly. And, back to the future use of the car, also help you decide on an adjustable setup vs a fixed one.
The other mods I would recommend based on what I have seen/read in a few threads:
3. Diverter valves – this is a proactive/preventive part change. Factory units are prone to failure.
4. GT-3 front brake ducts, Rear GT2 brake ducts (Front Part No: 996-341-117-90 and 996-341-118-90) – this will improve the cooling to the brakes and it is a fairly inexpensive mod.
5. Pagid Orange Brake Pads – better stopping power. Not that our cars lack stopping power for driving around town…
6. LW Flywheel with a clutch package from Kevin at www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com. I got a chance to drive Tom’s car with this setup and it is awesome. There is almost no difference in feel from the stock setup in terms of pedal effort and it cuts down in rotational mass. Love it.
7. High Performance Silicone Intake Hose Kit – another proactive/preventive part change.
8. Software upgrade (flash, ECU programming, etc…) I have my concerns with this. Just personal issues while the car is still under warranty. So, in my case this is the last option on the list. A lot of folks here have done it, have not had issues with warranty… but I am leaving this for last. Also, in my case with the non X-50 option, I would want to do this when I move to another Turbo setup.
And then you get into the cosmetic changes:
9. Clear/smoked side markers – cosmetic change
10. Depending on the interior options you have and what you like you can add carbon fiber components (shift ****, emergency break handle, etc…)
I have been compiling a list of changes for mine here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=295374
Best of luck and enjoy it in good health!
1. If you have a manual transmission get a Short Shift Kit - Get the Porsche unit if you are worried about them voiding your warranty. The peace of mind is worth the extra bucks. This will reduced the amount of movement you currently have to do to shift. Should have been how the car came from the factory. Best mod for the $$ in my book as far as getting a better feel for the shifts.
2. Exhaust - These cars are just too quiet from the factory. You will gain a few hp, better sound; loose a few pounds from the rear of the car. Do listen to other cars setup and inside cabin drone (resonance) before you decide. Have in mind what you would like to do with the car (take it to the track or not) as there are companies that offer alternatives that allow you to remove parts of the exhaust to switch between high flow cats with straight pipes to the tips, a muffler, straight pipes from the turbos, etc…
Since your car is fairly new and does not have that many miles I would wait on the suspension changes until you get to drive other cars to get a feel for what you want and then buy accordingly. And, back to the future use of the car, also help you decide on an adjustable setup vs a fixed one.
The other mods I would recommend based on what I have seen/read in a few threads:
3. Diverter valves – this is a proactive/preventive part change. Factory units are prone to failure.
4. GT-3 front brake ducts, Rear GT2 brake ducts (Front Part No: 996-341-117-90 and 996-341-118-90) – this will improve the cooling to the brakes and it is a fairly inexpensive mod.
5. Pagid Orange Brake Pads – better stopping power. Not that our cars lack stopping power for driving around town…
6. LW Flywheel with a clutch package from Kevin at www.Ultimatemotorwerks.com. I got a chance to drive Tom’s car with this setup and it is awesome. There is almost no difference in feel from the stock setup in terms of pedal effort and it cuts down in rotational mass. Love it.
7. High Performance Silicone Intake Hose Kit – another proactive/preventive part change.
8. Software upgrade (flash, ECU programming, etc…) I have my concerns with this. Just personal issues while the car is still under warranty. So, in my case this is the last option on the list. A lot of folks here have done it, have not had issues with warranty… but I am leaving this for last. Also, in my case with the non X-50 option, I would want to do this when I move to another Turbo setup.
And then you get into the cosmetic changes:
9. Clear/smoked side markers – cosmetic change
10. Depending on the interior options you have and what you like you can add carbon fiber components (shift ****, emergency break handle, etc…)
I have been compiling a list of changes for mine here: http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...d.php?t=295374
Best of luck and enjoy it in good health!
The best money I have spent has been driver education, once YOU are faster, then do the mods.
With that being said, I would do Short Shifter Kit, High quality brake fluid (I like Motul), brake pads (I like Pagid Oranges for street/track) and your flavor of suspension pending budget and needs.
As for more power depends where you want to be, if you KNOW you are eventually going big, just get it over with and save the time and money in the long run. I personally dont want anything over 550-600hp for the street, but that's me and I would lean towards Kevins Zero Clearance stage 2. This leads us back to having the skill to handle the power.
With that being said, I would do Short Shifter Kit, High quality brake fluid (I like Motul), brake pads (I like Pagid Oranges for street/track) and your flavor of suspension pending budget and needs.
As for more power depends where you want to be, if you KNOW you are eventually going big, just get it over with and save the time and money in the long run. I personally dont want anything over 550-600hp for the street, but that's me and I would lean towards Kevins Zero Clearance stage 2. This leads us back to having the skill to handle the power.
