what kind of brake kits did u guys upgrade to ?
#16
giddy-up & Whoa-the SALESman cometh
In theory and on the surface your answer is "spot on" and they do look pretty.
factual result of "said" front rotor and caliper "upgrade" is conclusive, that it makes VERY little difference in heat dissipation in real race conditions. It may be better in short sprint (20 minutes) circumstances, but on a production platform as a street car (996 TURBO) really is; there are too many other obstacles that should form as a primary issue in performance of brakes that is failing to be addressed in your dissertation on, ultimately, what we are here to discuss, performance and biggest bang for the buck! The true difference in diameter of rotor choice is not enough to produce a reduction in heat failures & warpage during a full session of track enjoyment. It is also not my intention to "rain on your parade". BUT, since you bring to the table the evidence that this Upgrade will result in superior braking on this car, I would have to object as a matter of factual evidence of myself and many other contemporaries having driven PSM aided turbo's under real track conditions. Larger calipers with more pistons and slightly increased diameter rotors will ONLY offer a slight extension of time on the track before the Larger rotor succumbs to the same illness as it's smaller (slightly) brethren. Nothing in your response indicates your awareness of this. HEAT from PSM isn't on your agenda and your eloquence on that subject matter is deafening in its silence?
Interestingly....MB has available for their OEM brands, many of the brembo calipers in several piston form for MUCH less than what brembo puts on the aftermarket. I have been comparing these calipers and found them to be identical to the what is being marketed without the nice color choice, unfortunately. A group buy of these calipers would be of exceptional value.
In conclusion. Brake upgrades are good, but failing to address the shortcoming of the overall heat issue can only result in these marginally larger pads and rotors to succumbing to the same problem all over again.
My experience at tracks such as the "Ring", Spa, Esotoril, Barcelona with Upgraded brakes offers me a much insightful capability in translating what the real capability of "better" braking creates. Until myself, as well as others who have driven these cars hard were able to control the heat induced into the brake systems, many different rotors AND calipers went South for the winter. There are people who drive their cars and there are DRIVERS. havefuntakechancesDRIVEporsche Calipers are good, cooling them is better, unless your into pedaling to the profilers, that COOL too!
factual result of "said" front rotor and caliper "upgrade" is conclusive, that it makes VERY little difference in heat dissipation in real race conditions. It may be better in short sprint (20 minutes) circumstances, but on a production platform as a street car (996 TURBO) really is; there are too many other obstacles that should form as a primary issue in performance of brakes that is failing to be addressed in your dissertation on, ultimately, what we are here to discuss, performance and biggest bang for the buck! The true difference in diameter of rotor choice is not enough to produce a reduction in heat failures & warpage during a full session of track enjoyment. It is also not my intention to "rain on your parade". BUT, since you bring to the table the evidence that this Upgrade will result in superior braking on this car, I would have to object as a matter of factual evidence of myself and many other contemporaries having driven PSM aided turbo's under real track conditions. Larger calipers with more pistons and slightly increased diameter rotors will ONLY offer a slight extension of time on the track before the Larger rotor succumbs to the same illness as it's smaller (slightly) brethren. Nothing in your response indicates your awareness of this. HEAT from PSM isn't on your agenda and your eloquence on that subject matter is deafening in its silence?
Interestingly....MB has available for their OEM brands, many of the brembo calipers in several piston form for MUCH less than what brembo puts on the aftermarket. I have been comparing these calipers and found them to be identical to the what is being marketed without the nice color choice, unfortunately. A group buy of these calipers would be of exceptional value.
In conclusion. Brake upgrades are good, but failing to address the shortcoming of the overall heat issue can only result in these marginally larger pads and rotors to succumbing to the same problem all over again.
My experience at tracks such as the "Ring", Spa, Esotoril, Barcelona with Upgraded brakes offers me a much insightful capability in translating what the real capability of "better" braking creates. Until myself, as well as others who have driven these cars hard were able to control the heat induced into the brake systems, many different rotors AND calipers went South for the winter. There are people who drive their cars and there are DRIVERS. havefuntakechancesDRIVEporsche Calipers are good, cooling them is better, unless your into pedaling to the profilers, that COOL too!
#17
Thank you for your input aracerx your input backs up some of the information I have heard from racing mechanics in regards to improvement in braking. I was told that if you could provide direct cooling to the rotors that I would benefit more than I would with the upgraded brakes with no cooling. So a more cost effective approach might be ducting to cool the OEM brakes would be the best, just my observation.
#18
Originally Posted by skojasevic
alex, how do you feel about brembo GT-Rs?
#19
GT-rs are the best... but @ $12K not all of us can afford it...
Most of the guys that have them usually get hooked up somehow( liek VRalex) or are tuners...
markski
Most of the guys that have them usually get hooked up somehow( liek VRalex) or are tuners...
markski
__________________
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
#20
tails waggin' dogs
AS a tuner, semi-retired driver and owner of 2 dollars that allows me access to rapid transit........My tutelage spans a large flow of moon phases. As such, I believe it my responsibility as a professional to NOT read into too many P-Mag articles or web induced pitchmen. My life experience must trump that!
Seeking out the real Achilles heel is what tuner's are supposed to be famous for....I THINK-therefor I make "things" go..... faster-M
Seeking out the real Achilles heel is what tuner's are supposed to be famous for....I THINK-therefor I make "things" go..... faster-M
#21
Actually, in theory, both of our viewpoints do hold water.
No argument here.
And as you pointed out, there are many other solutions to heat related problems that may not require throwing $3000-$4000 brake systems at.
(I didn't mention them because the question was "Why 6-piston"?)
Proper air ducting being one of the most effective.
Without a sufficient flow of fresh air to the brake system, even the largest disc will eventually run out of heat capacity and you will be back to the same heat related problems.
What I will add is that any improvements you make to improve airflow to the discs, will be exponential when combined with a more appropriate brake system.
In addition I will let you know that I am very familiar with PSM having spent sufficient amounts of time in the P-cars, in aggressive street driving as well as at the track. I have also supported many race teams with brake products for sprint races and endurance races.
A larger, and more appropriately designed disc (superior metallurgy, larger air gaps, curved vein designs), will in fact provide more heat capacity, while also providing more sufficient cooling on it's own.
This will keep the rotor cooler, making the pads act less as a heat sink, and in turn transferring less heat through the caliper and into the brake fluid. This will be a consistent improvement in sprint and endurance scenarios.
No argument here.
And as you pointed out, there are many other solutions to heat related problems that may not require throwing $3000-$4000 brake systems at.
(I didn't mention them because the question was "Why 6-piston"?)
Proper air ducting being one of the most effective.
Without a sufficient flow of fresh air to the brake system, even the largest disc will eventually run out of heat capacity and you will be back to the same heat related problems.
What I will add is that any improvements you make to improve airflow to the discs, will be exponential when combined with a more appropriate brake system.
In addition I will let you know that I am very familiar with PSM having spent sufficient amounts of time in the P-cars, in aggressive street driving as well as at the track. I have also supported many race teams with brake products for sprint races and endurance races.
A larger, and more appropriately designed disc (superior metallurgy, larger air gaps, curved vein designs), will in fact provide more heat capacity, while also providing more sufficient cooling on it's own.
This will keep the rotor cooler, making the pads act less as a heat sink, and in turn transferring less heat through the caliper and into the brake fluid. This will be a consistent improvement in sprint and endurance scenarios.
#22
bad air
I'm confident that you'll agree with my opinion that production noses make it impossible to duct enough air to the brakes. That, in and of itself, presents a daunting obstacle to a "hard charger". We have devised other ways around that. On a different note-there is an interesting blurb on weight reduction and comparing the component shedding entrepreneurs out there! That helps a bit. WELL, nice e-chatting-cheers!M
#23
Originally Posted by aracerx
I'm confident that you'll agree with my opinion that production noses make it impossible to duct enough air to the brakes. That, in and of itself, presents a daunting obstacle to a "hard charger". We have devised other ways around that. On a different note-there is an interesting blurb on weight reduction and comparing the component shedding entrepreneurs out there! That helps a bit. WELL, nice e-chatting-cheers!M
#24
#25
Originally Posted by ramone
no one answered my question
When I make reccomendations for brakes, it is usually to resolve an issue or fix a problem.
How are your brakes working for you currently?
Have you ever made any changes to pad coupounds?
Even though you do not track the car, would you consider yourself a spirited driver? (canyon driving, agressive through traffic, do you enjoy using your brakes agressively)
#26
Originally Posted by Gary II
Sorry ramone.
When I make reccomendations for brakes, it is usually to resolve an issue or fix a problem.
How are your brakes working for you currently?
Have you ever made any changes to pad coupounds?
Even though you do not track the car, would you consider yourself a spirited driver? (canyon driving, agressive through traffic, do you enjoy using your brakes agressively)
When I make reccomendations for brakes, it is usually to resolve an issue or fix a problem.
How are your brakes working for you currently?
Have you ever made any changes to pad coupounds?
Even though you do not track the car, would you consider yourself a spirited driver? (canyon driving, agressive through traffic, do you enjoy using your brakes agressively)
I'm bumping up to Stage 1/2 soon and my brakes are barely holding up as it is. Problem is I dont' want to spend too much money, or I at least want the most cost effective aproach possible....
Last edited by ramone; 02-08-2007 at 08:40 PM.
#27
Ultimate Solution!
We've devised a unique package that utilizes water as the medium for cooling the 4 (brake) corners down. As you should ALL be aware, water is the best and most efficient way to cool. It's quite unique and sorted out. It uses special electical control to not over compensate on the cooling and is adjustable. For a behemoth such as a 996 TURBO under track conditions, it's the only solution that works efficiently and is COST efficient as a by-product. M
#29
Originally Posted by ramone
Question...
If you're running stage 1/2 (non X50) and want a cost effective upgrade for the brakes should I look to just changing the fronts ? If so what is the best upgrade for the fronts for a stage 1/2 daily driver ?
I don't track the car.
If you're running stage 1/2 (non X50) and want a cost effective upgrade for the brakes should I look to just changing the fronts ? If so what is the best upgrade for the fronts for a stage 1/2 daily driver ?
I don't track the car.
Last edited by tom kerr; 02-09-2007 at 10:30 AM.
#30
Originally Posted by heavychevy
What are the other ways around the heat, I'm sure there are several here that would like to know new ways of keeping our brakes cooler and helping them to last longer.