If your going to be driving mostly on the street, the OE pads are the best bet. All other pads are just going to try to emulate the OE standards. Racing pads on the street are far too abrasive and will not stop well. Street pads are manageable on the track, they will just wear and fade more quickly. You can deal with the attributes of the street pads on the track but obviously not the race pads on the street.

Remember, Porsche has the best stock brakes in the industry, they are always being emulated. The only way to get more stopping power is to get larger brakes, it’s just physics. Big brake kits allow you to push your car much further at the track, even while using a pre street pad. So if you want to stop noticeably quicker you have to speed some decent cash. Messing around with non OEM products will only cause problems.

If you encounter the glazing problem again you just need to re-bed the brakes in order to transfer pad material to the rotor. They glazed over in the first place because the daily driving ate all of the pad material off.

 

19000rpm you should be a novelist! (but you do have some font issues)

I think we're mostly on the same page, but... Totally agree - but - you do have to get brakes *hot* to bed in. A progressive heating with some ramp-up - then some stops to actually transfer material, then some moderate stops to clean off excess and cool down. Follow the Pagid proceedure, as their pads are the most susceptible to bedding issues.Please...
Ahh, no. You really should think about what's happening at the Metallurgical level - The crystalline structure of the iron or steel is disrupted due to heat causing the surface *and moderate penetration depths* to be affected.

You really do have to either machine this off (getting well below this area) or abrade this off using some means.

Just re-bedding the brakes onto glazed surface won't get even or effective pad transfer to the rotors. You have to start with a moderately good surface to bed. Agreed?
Fine - just ramp up the heat like I said. Agreed.

AIRjordan23 tracks. He was using stock pads and then mintex. The cause IMHO was overheating the rotors via brake technique and some surface heat treating from the orig. stock pad incident.

If you're gonna track, then you need to swap out pads that are going to handle the extended heat range without causing rotor damage.

As far as "No one does this." using an track pad as an abrasive.. Well I certainly do, and all my track buddies do. We all get some pad transfer sometimes that causes "shudder", and if you have the Hawk Blues (or other high abrasive pad) sitting around, why not use 'em. Certainly everone trying to find a compromise pad for the track and street will not succeed. You need to swap out pads before an event. You either get squeeel on the street and poor cold performance with a track pad on the street, or really overcook the brake system and do damage to the rotors with street pads on the track.

As far a Stoptech/Porsche recommending pad/rotor conformability - as a general rule - yes. You have to know a little about what is happening, and there is a bit of judgement as to how much to scrub the rotor to get all that old pad material off before you can bed the new pad to the rotor. They are going to err on the side of "lawyer safety" and just not go down that route. If you do know a bit, have some experience and do some observation, you can feel when you've removed the old bedding and safely rebed new pads.
Again... Please...

 

Didn’t know you tracked your car. There are just different practicalities for people who don’t work on their own cars. Having to redo the work you did just the other day because a customer was not told something properly is no fun. I’m just used to saying its safer to go slow on new brakes. There have been some people that ruin an hour of work in a few seconds, then bring the car back and blame it on the installer.

I personally see nothing wrong with doing it another way, it’s just something I have never had a customer ask for. Having two sets of brakes for the road and the track isn’t in everyone’s budget or skill set either. I guess that’s my favorite excuse to have a couple cars. PCCB, and carbon helped eliminate the need for both. This makes the option cost for the ceramics more reasonable to those who question the cost. You get a great street and track break all in one.

 

When you are starting out at DE's - stock is fine (although a good low hydroscopic higher temp range brake fluid flush is a *really good idea*)

But as you progress through the ranks, and the limits of grip, you need to diverge into purpose built equipement - i.e. tires (R-compond), brakes (track pads), etc.

Then comes the suspension.... Just the slipery slope.

BTW, nobody in their right mind tracks PCCB's! Failures and cost.

 

Believe it or not I’ve scene it done very successfully, guess they weren’t in their head. Lap time was good though. The 2nd gen doesn’t have all the problems like the early ones. MovIt is even going to produce a full racing version that should be very similar to carbon/carbon. I guess well see how those work out.

 

Yeah, and Stoptech is too..

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ad.php?t=74270

 

Haven’t scene theirs before. Hopefully they will hold true to their promise of the lower price tag. I would consider a set.

 

I am some what confused... Both 19000rpm and Dietz make valid points.
I have done numerous sport brake upgrades on everything from Lexus to Mitsubishi cars. On the last set of Brembo's installed with new pads ,SS brake
lines and ATE blue fluid. I took it very easy in town, stop light to stop light.
Anticipating stops as if braking on ice, easy pumping motion using 2.5X-3.5X
the distance of a normal stop. But per Brembo instructions, I got on the highway and after reaching a speed of 75-80mph, checking my rear view mirror of any vehicles behind me. I put the pedal very aggressively to the brakes as if an emergency stop... down to 35-40mph. Checked the second hand on my watch for reference.(noted time) accelerated back up to highway speed at a regular rate. Waited at least 45 seconds (usually 60 seconds) to allow for cooling. Then went thru the proceedure of aggresive braking 75>35, then cool down time. I would repeat this procedure 3 times, then allow 2-3min cooling and do it 1-2 more times. I have had great sucess in brake grip, using this method with even cheaper after market upgrades for passenger cars.
Now, I have zero experience with the track cars, however I have a brake job planned for the 996TT with SS lines and fluid change with new pads on stock rotors. I plan to go to Hallet (W of Tulsa, OK) this year for some PCA training and some spirited (hard) driving. I don't want to cook my brakes...
as I have heard of guys doing with such a weekend outing at the track.

What should I use... as far as pads for the Sat/Sun day at the track? Remeber the rest of the time (95%) I am driving aggressive street driving.

 

Ahh, I hesitate to recommend anything because experience and style/preference is so variable.

That said, and the above disclaimer that there is no compromise pad, I used the Ferodo 2500 series as a dual use.

http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_compounds.shtml

For a full track pad that still is streetable, Pagid Yellow RS-29 (or RS-19 if you can't find the 29's) Orange 4-4 if you can stand the pig-like squeel (it's really bad - really)

http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html

although Pagids are finicky to bed in. Follow this to the letter.

http://www.braketechnology.com/brakepadbedding.html

Some say Pagid's are expensive - they are. Pagid's are temperamental to break in and bed - they are. But they are worth every penny. They last.

 

mine turn purple after the track, then back to normal...

 

What turns purple?? (insert profane comment here...)

Rotors?

The EVO guys call their calipers "Brownbo's" instead of "Brembo's" ;-)