How to adjust Wastegate rods?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 356
From: Southern California
Rep Power: 35
Originally Posted by roadsterdoc
I think if you set the actuator to start opening at 1.2 bar, you will over shoot. If 1.2 bar is your boost target, the rods need to be moving just before that so that the WG is fully open at 1.2 bar. ...
You can make a nice little tester out of a cheap bicycle pump, a boost gauge, some hose and T fittings. It's super important that the actuators are setup equally, that's why you have to do it with a pressure tester.
Last edited by Bodybag; Feb 25, 2007 at 10:33 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14
From: Rturbo
Rep Power: 0
Snap-on has a pressure pump kit and you also need their vacuum pressure gauge set with pressure and vacuum to make it correct. My ruf 550 is set for 0,5bar to open.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?Group_ID=1421
Good luck
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?Group_ID=1421
Good luck
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 582
From: Redmond, WA.
Rep Power: 0
Originally Posted by John D II
Well I never got around to actually using it - my tech did it for me. Yes, it is connected to a compressor and then the outlet end is connected to the wastegate. Next slowly squeeze the trigger and watch the pressure rise. There is a measurement that Stephen gave me (approx 12-14 Lbs -I forget) and when it reaches that pressure, you want the rod to begin to move. You would adjust the nut forward or back to get it right. Once one side is done you do the same to the opposite side. When complete you should be able to connect to either side, supply pressure and see the rod begin to move at the same presure on both sides. This would mean the wastegates are equally adjusted.
Seth
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,771
From: NYC
Rep Power: 136
Slightly OT.
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Banned
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 72
From: Mo
Rep Power: 22
Originally Posted by Bodybag
Do it with a pressure tester. There is no way to accurately and evenly adjust them without using a pressure tester.
Once you've got a tester and are ready to adjust them, set them up so that the watesgate begins to crack once they hit 12psi. That'll keep you from overboosting and have the boost set to a safe 1.2 max.
Adjusting rod length with the number of turns method will get you close, but you need to do the final adjustment with a pressure tester.
Once you've got a tester and are ready to adjust them, set them up so that the watesgate begins to crack once they hit 12psi. That'll keep you from overboosting and have the boost set to a safe 1.2 max.
Adjusting rod length with the number of turns method will get you close, but you need to do the final adjustment with a pressure tester.
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,932
From: The Woodlands, TX
Rep Power: 107
Originally Posted by jimmer23
Slightly OT.
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,880
From: In a Canyon - Really :)
Rep Power: 290
The TT doesn't need shimming, it already comes with an adjustable actuator rod. The issue is the the factory spring is too soft and will blow open with exhaust pressure when running anything over 1.0 BAR boost?
Originally Posted by jimmer23
Slightly OT.
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Has anyone tried to shim their existing wastegate actuators? On some turbo cars, you can put a couple of washers under the mounting points for the actuator to the turbo to create more tension on the wastegate. Voila - free boost...
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,771
From: NYC
Rep Power: 136
It does? Shows you how much I've looked at it lol.
So a couple of turns and I should be at 1bar huh? Sweet. What's the benefit of the EVO adjustable "1 bar" actuators then? They start there and are a bit stiffer so you can go over?
Anyone have pics (my car is at the dealer for warranty work)?
So a couple of turns and I should be at 1bar huh? Sweet. What's the benefit of the EVO adjustable "1 bar" actuators then? They start there and are a bit stiffer so you can go over?
Anyone have pics (my car is at the dealer for warranty work)?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 356
From: Southern California
Rep Power: 35
Originally Posted by blakshukvw
Bodybag, when do you have time to drive all of those sweat rides? You need to post them in the new 997TT forum that's going. I think it's titled "are you a baller".
I made a deal with myself back in '92 not to sell one car to get another, you know, the old stepping stone routine. I've stayed very true to my own rule since then, with the exception of selling my 993TT and trading up to a 996 GT2. I will admit that it's been difficult at times to add a "new toy" without selling an old one, but in the long run it has paid off HUGE.
I keep 2 of them at home (plus my pickup truck), and the rest at my office. I'll have each one home for a couple weeks and drive it regularly while it's there. Then, I'll drive one to my office and switch it for another that will stay at the house for a few weeks, and so on. Some I drive more often than others, but I'd say each of them gets at least 1000 miles a year.
I actually own a few more, plus half a s**t load of old motorcycles, but my sig was getting too big
Last edited by Bodybag; Mar 21, 2007 at 06:48 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 356
From: Southern California
Rep Power: 35
Originally Posted by jimmer23
It does? Shows you how much I've looked at it lol.
So a couple of turns and I should be at 1bar huh? Sweet. What's the benefit of the EVO adjustable "1 bar" actuators then? They start there and are a bit stiffer so you can go over?
Anyone have pics (my car is at the dealer for warranty work)?
So a couple of turns and I should be at 1bar huh? Sweet. What's the benefit of the EVO adjustable "1 bar" actuators then? They start there and are a bit stiffer so you can go over?
Anyone have pics (my car is at the dealer for warranty work)?
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 982
From: Montana
Rep Power: 63
I set mine (evo) so that the WG's start to move(.002") at 11.75 lbs, this gives me 1.3 bar. And the boost comes in a whole bunch quicker. This is a good mod for little cost. BTW the factory WG was set to move at 7 psi.
