Motons for GT2
Motons for GT2
I am considering doing Motons on my GT2 and I would like to get some feedback from your personal experience on this set up. Do you have it setup for track or street and what springs are you using.
I would appreciate any info or experience good or bad .
TIA Raudel
I would appreciate any info or experience good or bad .
TIA Raudel
Personally, I use the JRZ shocks with 700 and 800 lb springs from hyperco...was the BEST application of money spent on the turbo BY FAR...
I went with the Clubsport ProRS and love them...but there are many different variations that JRZ offers...Moton is pretty much the same product with a more well known STREET name...JRZ seems to support more gt and gt2 cars though...
I would suggest slightly lighter springs for mostly street...that being said, Im moving to 1000+ springs this summer...
I went with the Clubsport ProRS and love them...but there are many different variations that JRZ offers...Moton is pretty much the same product with a more well known STREET name...JRZ seems to support more gt and gt2 cars though...
I would suggest slightly lighter springs for mostly street...that being said, Im moving to 1000+ springs this summer...
I just finished the Moton setup for my TT. I went with the club sport kit, full monobloc, CPP upper control arms, GT3 adjustable front lower control arms, ERP adjustable rears.
To say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,
To say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,
Last edited by ccayer; Apr 20, 2007 at 12:21 AM.
Raudel when i go to set my Moton's up fully, i will let you take the car for a spin and give you all of the specs.. Even on the soft setting now, which RUF setup the car is unreal in its handling characteristics, compared to mostly anything i have ever driven.. It feels like a bigger Lotus Exige, same precise feel, you are welcome to drive it whenever 
I will also find out exactly what they put in the car as far as spring rate wise to the shocks, w/e it is it feels amazing!
Martin

I will also find out exactly what they put in the car as far as spring rate wise to the shocks, w/e it is it feels amazing!
Martin
Originally Posted by sechsgang
Personally, I use the JRZ shocks with 700 and 800 lb springs from hyperco...was the BEST application of money spent on the turbo BY FAR...
I went with the Clubsport ProRS and love them...but there are many different variations that JRZ offers...Moton is pretty much the same product with a more well known STREET name...JRZ seems to support more gt and gt2 cars though...
I would suggest slightly lighter springs for mostly street...that being said, Im moving to 1000+ springs this summer...
I went with the Clubsport ProRS and love them...but there are many different variations that JRZ offers...Moton is pretty much the same product with a more well known STREET name...JRZ seems to support more gt and gt2 cars though...
I would suggest slightly lighter springs for mostly street...that being said, Im moving to 1000+ springs this summer...
Originally Posted by ccayer
I just finished the Moton setup for my TT. I went with the club sport kit, full monobloc, CPP upper control arms, GT3 adjustable front lower control arms, ERP adjustable rears.
Do say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,
Do say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,
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Originally Posted by iLLM3
Raudel when i go to set my Moton's up fully, i will let you take the car for a spin and give you all of the specs.. Even on the soft setting now, which RUF setup the car is unreal in its handling characteristics, compared to mostly anything i have ever driven.. It feels like a bigger Lotus Exige, same precise feel, you are welcome to drive it whenever 
I will also find out exactly what they put in the car as far as spring rate wise to the shocks, w/e it is it feels amazing!
Martin

I will also find out exactly what they put in the car as far as spring rate wise to the shocks, w/e it is it feels amazing!
Martin
I just sold my 2003 GT2. I had Moton Clubsports for about 2 years. Initially I had 550/800 lb springs front & Rear with Cup helper spring. That was fine for the street, except the springs would clunk over very big bump or expansion joint. I then went to a 350 to 650 progressive spring over a 650 lb front spring and a 500 to 800 lb progressive rear spring over a 800 lb spring. That set up eliminated the clunk, and was good on the street, but on the track was too soft. I then went to Cup car springs front and rear 1100 front/1400 rear and that was great on the track but too stiff for any street use.
I then went full circle and put the stock progressive single springs back on and had no clunk, a good street ride and handling comparable to the first two options on the street. It was still too soft for the track, but since it was primarily a street car that was the best set up for me.
In addition I switched out the toe links front and rear to Cup adj links rear and Eisenlor in the front.
I would recommend you start with shocks and stock springs. Then go up from there in spring rate. In addition make sure your installer has good experience with adj. shocks as canister pressures will play a roll in how thing work as well. I also think the standard valving of the Clubsport is too slow for the GT2. You need to determine your desired result of handling street or track bias. You need a minimum of 250- 300 lb of spread in spring rate front to rear.
As far as set up went I ran -3D of camber front, -3.5D of camber rear, stock caster, +10' of toe front (5' per side), +40' of rear toe (+20' per side), and sway bars set one off full stiff. At the track I went to full stiff on the bars. To generate the negative camber easily punch out the extra holes and rotate the shocks 180 degrees and you will have at least -2.5D of negative camber.
Ride height varied, but was at the lower end of factory specs.
Budget at least twice what the parts cost to get the time in to make set up and spring adjustments. If you can take it to someone experienced you will save in the long run. Good luck.
JCM
I then went full circle and put the stock progressive single springs back on and had no clunk, a good street ride and handling comparable to the first two options on the street. It was still too soft for the track, but since it was primarily a street car that was the best set up for me.
In addition I switched out the toe links front and rear to Cup adj links rear and Eisenlor in the front.
I would recommend you start with shocks and stock springs. Then go up from there in spring rate. In addition make sure your installer has good experience with adj. shocks as canister pressures will play a roll in how thing work as well. I also think the standard valving of the Clubsport is too slow for the GT2. You need to determine your desired result of handling street or track bias. You need a minimum of 250- 300 lb of spread in spring rate front to rear.
As far as set up went I ran -3D of camber front, -3.5D of camber rear, stock caster, +10' of toe front (5' per side), +40' of rear toe (+20' per side), and sway bars set one off full stiff. At the track I went to full stiff on the bars. To generate the negative camber easily punch out the extra holes and rotate the shocks 180 degrees and you will have at least -2.5D of negative camber.
Ride height varied, but was at the lower end of factory specs.
Budget at least twice what the parts cost to get the time in to make set up and spring adjustments. If you can take it to someone experienced you will save in the long run. Good luck.
JCM
Originally Posted by RCNJ
Thanks Martin, I might take you up on that ride. I gotta do something with my suspension. The car feels nervous and twitchy at high speeds. At times I've felt like I was going to loose it. Do you get that feeling at all?
Whenever we meet up on a Sunday or whenever you can take it for a spin, i have driven stock GT2's and its a night and day difference, especially in the comfort level of pushing the car too its limits, its intimidating but very responsive and lets you know what is going on at all times, you will love it!
I completely forgot to mention...I have also done upgraded camber plates, drop links, and an assortment of small tweaks...along with JRZ sways...
If your ever around Philly, feel free to take a drive...compare the setup to Martins...
If your ever around Philly, feel free to take a drive...compare the setup to Martins...
Originally Posted by sechsgang
I completely forgot to mention...I have also done upgraded camber plates, drop links, and an assortment of small tweaks...along with JRZ sways...
If your ever around Philly, feel free to take a drive...compare the setup to Martins...
If your ever around Philly, feel free to take a drive...compare the setup to Martins...
ya, im goin...and thats fine...
I mean...how else are you going to acutally experience a car that handles well... ... ...
jk, im pretty sure your Gt2 could damn near kick the **** out of the turbo on track...even with your softee suspension...hah
I mean...how else are you going to acutally experience a car that handles well... ... ...
jk, im pretty sure your Gt2 could damn near kick the **** out of the turbo on track...even with your softee suspension...hah
Originally Posted by sechsgang
ya, im goin...and thats fine...
I mean...how else are you going to acutally experience a car that handles well... ... ...
jk, im pretty sure your Gt2 could damn near kick the **** out of the turbo on track...even with your softee suspension...hah
I mean...how else are you going to acutally experience a car that handles well... ... ...
jk, im pretty sure your Gt2 could damn near kick the **** out of the turbo on track...even with your softee suspension...hah
Dont worry it will be dialed in, and ready to make you go 
Originally Posted by ccayer
I just finished the Moton setup for my TT. I went with the club sport kit, full monobloc, CPP upper control arms, GT3 adjustable front lower control arms, ERP adjustable rears.
Do say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,
Do say it changed the car is a HUGE understatement. I also did H & R sways so I could use the stock swaybar ends. H & R race springs in 514/800 configuration - I was looking for a compromise between periodic street and track applications. I also had it corner balanced. I run 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of negative camber front and rear.
Turn in is sharp, precise is a great way of explaining it. Brake dive is GONE, any lean the car had is nonexistent. Power on squat is controlled and the car leaps off the corners. The control of the dampner for bump and rebound is very good. Coming from Ohlins I was hoping to find something as good - in my opinion this setup is far better.
Grip levels have increased tremendously, so much so I had to add padding in my suit from the GT3 seats digging into my sides under fast sweepers. Power on and the car reacts very predictably, no snap oversteer to be had and I've dialed out the understeer completely. I track in the rain as well… this setup is amazing… go full soft and the car is very controllable – even while running in full race ecu mode.
The track I run predominately is Portland International, which kills left fronts normally and with this setup and corner balancing I've been able to keep the left front alive. Tire temps are in the "normal" range now.
During install I would recommend they put the collars on both the top and bottom of the swaybar mount if you go this direction. The twist on the swaybar mount has a tendency to loosen the mount on the right rear.
Good luck,





