There are all sorts of methods when breaking in an engine. What I use and have for nearly 6 years is as follows. The initial start up sees 2K rpm for 20 minutes to seat the cams. After the car has come to temperature we put it on the road for 2-300 miles. Little to no load and varying throttle. After the 300 miles we line it up on the dyno (or suitable road) and run full throttle through first, second and third gear, fourth on the 6 speed cars. Then let off and cool down. The rings are either going to seat right then and there from the chamber thermal heat and the pressure on the rings forcing them into the walls of the cylinder. The silicone based walls of the Porsche turbos will seat. There is actually a larger chance of failure by lolly gagging around for a 1000 miles. The cylinders can semi glaze and either never seat properly or take excessive time to do so. The 2-300 miles seats the bearing and the rest seats the rings. Dump the oil in 700-1000 miles and roll on. I break every motor in this way and it sees a 12K mile/1year warranty.

 

Stephen,

If I let you build a engine for me will I get a 12,000/one year warranty?

 

There is a cut off point. LOL, I think you exceed that my friend I am almost nuts enough to say let me do it and I would.

 

Stephan:

Thanks, I will follow your break in procedure and it makes sense. The only question is the initial oil has a break in additive package. Do you think 1,000 miles is the best compromise with engine wear bits vs additive protection? (That question sucks but I hope you understand what I am saying.)

 

Very pereceptive, we had three engineers working on the car,

Andreas
Thomas
Bernd

and it took 4 months

all the best
adam