OK, I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I learned something today and I thought I would share my new found knowledge with my dear old forum members. Let's get the specifications out of the way, '02 Gt2, Stock K24's, Orton flash, DV's, and a Europipe II (quiet).

To make a long story short, after the flash and DV's (pre-exhaust), my mechanic used the mark the nut method and turned each nut (clockwise) evenly. I believe at that time he turned them 4 full revolutions. Before the flash and DV's I saw the occasional .9 spike (stock) and the best dyno numbers were 444 rwhp, 426 rwt (stock). After the flash, DV's and my mechanic's wastegate adjustment (4 revolutions each) the best dyno numbers were 482 rwhp and 454 rwt and she was hitting 1 bar with a 1.1 spike. Both these runs were done in very similar conditions (temp 60's, humidity, same dyno and operator).

Finally I installed my Europipe and felt that the wastegates could use further tweaking. I asked a member on this forum to borrow his wastegate psi tool and when it arrived I went to TPC, put the car on the lift and we tried to set the wastegates to crack open at 12 psi. Well, I've got to tell you; it is very difficult to look at the psi gauge at the same instant that the wastegates crack open and then the gauge hitting the magic number. We thought that we had it set and put her on the dyno, she hit 1.2 bar and the best run was 506 rwhp and 496 rwt (90 degrees). Well, needless to say I was pretty happy until I got her on the street. She was over boosting in 4th and 5th (1.3, 1.4 bar) and I felt the fuel shutting down; bad feeling. I went back (twice) that night and we turned the nuts back 2 full turns and I took her back out. FYI, it was about 90 degrees outside that day. Well, she continued to over boost,

I went back to TPC a couple of days later and unscrewed the nuts until they were both exactly 11 millimeters from the tip of the rear nut, to the tip of the rod. I used an electronic caliper, so they were dead ***** even. I then marked the nut using touch up paint (guards red, of course) and began the painstaking process of turning the nuts several turns and driving her, checking the boost, coming back, waiting for her to cool, measuring again to be sure and then repeating the process again. After several adjustments, the top of the nut, to the tip of the rod was now 14 millimeters. I was just getting 1 bar at the top of 3rd and 4th. Well, I took her home and this morning, I started the process all over again. I finally after three test drives and 5 and a 1/2 more full turns I am seeing a solid 1.1 bar in 3rd and 4th with a 1.2 spike at 5500 rpm in 4th, and a solid 1.2 bar in 5th (140 mph and beyond). The temp outside today was in the high 60's with no humidity, so I know it will not over boost in colder temperatures.

Thanks for listening and I hope this helps someone in the future who is trying to adjust their wategates. I attached a copy of the three dyno runs overlapping each other for further information. Take care and drive safe.

 

Congrats Mario.your just dandy @1.2 bar.I know what you mean about 1.2 bar in 5th. Imagine trying to get 1.5bar in 5th at 8000Rpm.man I was ****ting myself as the Police have been out in force in my neck of the woods........... car had a kick *** radar set up but I'm to dump to work the sucker.

 

Sounds good...and thanks for the dyno...but I must say the OEM WG are really hard to make it hold 1.2 bar to the red-line on 4th. If you did in your conditions awesome! Otherwise, I will strongly recommend you to get the EVO WG...is huge!! I am hitting now 0.9 bar at 3,200 rpms and 1.2 bar all the way with 1.3 bar spike in 4th gear.

 

I also think the upgraded wastgates are better. Don't get me wrong, mine are adjusted also on stock k16. I think that the tendency to overboost is higher when the temp is up and not down. I could be wrong but I thought I remember this. Anyone else can confirm or dispel? Enjoy the boost!

 

glad you got it dialed in Mario. It should be a beast now. By the way, my rear tire has held air ever since....weird huh?

 

No, they tend to over boost in colder temperatures because the air is less dense so the turbo propeller spins with less resistance. I took her out this morning in 58 degrees and she over boosted again. Last night it was 68 degrees and she ran fine. So after the over boost run this morning I dialed the wastegates back a full turn and the overboost stopped, but I also stopped seeing 1.2 at the top of 4th and through 5th. I now see 1.1 at the top of 3rd 1.1 in 4th and 5th. I guess given a choice, I would rather be slightly under the max, than slightly over.

 

i was holding 1.3 bar in 5th last night with no issues on the pump file...weird

 

1.3 bar is too much for stock K24's. At that point, the turbo is overworked and you are substantially decreasing the lifespan of your turbos if they regularly hold a solid 1.3 bar.

 

it doesn't do it regularly. i get a solid 1.2 from 3rd gear on but last night was pretty cool and it did hold 1.3. there was no TB shut down though...

 

If you are getting a solid 1.2 in 3rd, from my latest experience, you may over boost in 4th (115 mph plus) and probably overboost in 5th (130 mph plus). I was also holding a 1.2 in 3rd and then at the top of 4th and 5th I got an overboost and TB fuel cutoff. It happened when I went beyond 1.3 bar. Consequently, I had to dial the wastegates back to prevent over boost in the higher gears at higher speeds.

 

does Orton use GIAC or does he have his own tune?

 

His own tuner in Belgium. Did you feel a difference in boost when you installed your EVO wastegates?

 

i was not getting a steady 1.2 before i did the wastegates. i could have probably gotten the stock ones to 1.2 but everyone on here said i need the evo ones so i got them..... GMG dialed in my evo wastegates but the installer told me that they dont use them as the stock ones are usually fine

 

1.3 spike or spike of 1.4 bar it had happened to me some times where setting the right position of the EVO WG. I see now 1.3 bar spike and 1.2 solid. If is really cold 1.3 stays more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvQYrBrdn4A

GIAC has different maps in their program and I think I may have gotten Race routine (aggressive mapping) .. like you drewTT where the TB does not cut at this boost level. The down side is that our cars are really sensible to environment temperatures.... where EVO IC's could be a great help.

Stephen at IA has done all the job in my car may be he has the answer.