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Snapped lug bolt...

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Old Aug 28, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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Snapped lug bolt...

Switching out to another set of rims today...my front passenger lug bolt snapped....not sure how it got cross threaded....anyways...I know I need to get that taken care of but...you think it'll be safe to daily drive for a while without 1 lug bolt for a couple months? With my schedule, I don't I'll be able to get it the shop for another couple months as I don't trust any shops around where I am. How hard is it to extract the bolt?
I'm thinking might as well flush brakes fluid, new rotors and pads while at it. Is there any difference with SS brake lines? I've got a set of mintex pads left over from my boxsterS that I can use and stick to OEM rotors or any other rotors that are equivilent? Daily driver with no track. Just occasional highway fun.
Thanks.
 
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 12:16 AM
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This happened on my last BMW, and it was a real pain. I had to get a new wheel hub and pay for about two hours of labor. It took a few days to get a new wheel hub, and while I drove the car with just 4 lug bolts on that wheel, I only drove locally for short distances with no highway driving.
 
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 01:00 AM
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on a 911 i would not recomend driving it, the rotors are held in place by the rim and the rim is suspose to be torqued so that the pressure is the same on all 5 bolts...with one out the rim will not have the correct pressure on it and can cause the rotor to warp. that being said...you can drive on it if you have to.

as far as removal, its not that hard, most of the time you can do it your self.

you will need to remove the rotor(caliper and pads as well) once you remove the rotor you should have good access to the hub, a small amount of heat from a torch directly around the bolt and a pair of large vice grips usually dones the trick. this is assuming you dont have to drill part of the head off to get the rim off. if you get the bolt out you will want to get a tap the same thread as the bolt(dont remember the size off hand) you will want to make sure that it goes in straight and this will hopefully allow the new bolt to go in correctly, it is possible that by crossthreading the bolt that there will not be enough good thread left, this requires a new spindal.

if the heat and vice grips dont work then you will have to drill it out. this usually means you will need a new spindal(the part the bolt is threaded into)...Mechanic is required for this unless you are one or have bearing tool.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions....
 
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 09:24 AM
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The head along with 1/3 of the bolt broke off so there is no way a vise grip is going to grab onto anything. I can visually tell that the bolt looks crooked so even if the remaining bolt were to be removed...I'm afraid that the existing thread will be crossthreaded. It's looking like I'll need a new spindle(wheel hub is the same thing?) right?
 
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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From what you are telling me I would say you need a new hub (spindal)...and a new bearing to go with it, depending on where you take it to have it done it should only take abt 2 hours to complete, make sure the correct wheel grease is used.
 
Old Aug 29, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by asialors996
From what you are telling me I would say you need a new hub (spindal)...and a new bearing to go with it, depending on where you take it to have it done it should only take abt 2 hours to complete, make sure the correct wheel grease is used.
That's what I was afraid of...I won't be able to get it to the shop for at least another month so I'm just going to have to check the lugs often till then. Might as well get new rotors, pads, brake fluid flush and some front spacers if I need a new hub...
 
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