Try Dutch Treat Porsche and ask for Robert.

They are located on Inglewood Blvd, between Manhattan Beach Blvd and Artesia Blvd. Close to Manhattan Beach.

 

you can try Bryan at Stuttgart Performance. They are a board sponsor and located near newport beach, off the 405.
he should work with you to get you back on the road.

tell him his New Jersey customer sent you.

JB

 

Thanks so much for the responses guys. It's great to have choices - once again, I'm indebted to you guys.

 

I think for your area thats probably right. Porsche Labor time for a Clutch is 25 Hours. A factory Clutch and Flywheel will run around $1000. And you should always replace everything together or you will regret it later, so Clutch, Flywheel, Throw Out Bearing...ect. Most Porsche Shops are $100-150/hr. So you are $2500-3000 in Labor and $1000+ in Parts.

 

Hello, need some advice: Indy quoting $2,700 for following:

Replace clutch - standard Sachs kit
Replace RMS
New Oil Filter, top of oil
Replace crank, flywheel seal
Replace clutch slave cylinder
Replace clutch release arm
Replace clutch actuating Fork
Replace clutch pushrod seal
Replace pilot bearing
Replace pivot ball pin
Flywheel bolts

All labor included to perform above, plus swapping axles left to right and vice versa.

9 hours of labor quoted for all clutch work.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

Seems about right. Get them to do the LNE IMS upgrade while they're in there.

 

look at air-oil-separator, too.
LN engineering IMS bearing. gives you peace of mind and helps you sell car down the road.

JB

 

Fozzy, thank you very much for the reply. Makes me feel better. As far as the LNE IMS upgrade is concerned. My research shows that I have a late build MY2006 with the 'improved IMS'. According to LN, this upgrade will require engine disassembly and the intermediate shaft sent to them to be upgraded. Do you still recommend having this done?

 

Thank you JB, I will call right now about the AOS, good advice.

 

You have a 997?

Probably No. You can't do the IMS retrofit on your car, and tearing into the engine *just* for that is probably not worth it.

Having said that, there was a long thread on rennlist about this, linked here for your convenience:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforum...s-bearing.html

 

Wow!!! that is shocking I strongly recommend R2 Racing in Santa Clarita (they do the maintenance on my 996 C4). Their work is awesome and I am almost positive their price will be below $2K. Good luck and keep us posted. Opppsssss, just realized this is an OLD thread

 

Are you sure 2k isn't for a straight clutch kit replacement?

The sachs clutch kit alone is $1100. Add in the slave cylinder ($200), actuating fork and release arm (~$300) and the rest of the parts listed and you're up to $1700+ in parts. I would be very surprised to see a shop do a complete clutch rebuild for $300 (or less) in labor.

You can shop it around, and you *might* save a couple of bills, but I doubt you'll get to $2K. OTOH if the shop has a good reputation, and trust the tech who is working on your car.....

 

I believe that they advertise clutch replacement for $1400. Now they did not do my clutch, that was done at FFW in Monterey Park, and when my clutch was replaced, I have several other things done (CV Joints, etc.) and my bill was around $2K.

The service at R2 Racing was excellent and they are all very nice and explain everything they do and answer all your questions. I will continue to take my car to them as I have been very pleased with their service. I bought my first Porsche in 1973, and have been very lucky finding Indy shops to work on my various P-cars

 

I am a proud owner of 1999 Porshe 911/996 which I purchased January 2013. I saved for all of ten years pin pointing the color (interior/exterior) mileage, convertible, # of owners etc…
To my dismay and disappointment, I find that a new clutch was the reasons I have been smelling a distinct burning smell once I parked it back in the garage. The car only has 61K miles. I bought it with 55K miles. I will admit I have driven it fast a few times (hell…why NOT?) but riding the clutch isn't something I've done since I was a kid first learning how to drive. (lessons learned the hard expensive way). The mechanic shared with me that I was the first to actually burn through the flywheel too. The costs coupled with a few other critical fixes RMS. It was leaking a little. He also suggested I replace the IMS which can save my thousands if inturn the IMS ever was to fail…(Have any of you ever heard that?) He did show my first hand if the seal was to fail how much damage could occur to the engine…I heeded his suggestion and I'm having it replaced all in the same breath of the clutch…I am also having the 60K routine maintenance service done, apparently I also have the spark plug tubes leaking oil onto the engine…
The readings of others postings seem to have paid in excess of $4000. for a new clutch.. I'm having all this work done for just around $5000.
This mechanic was highly recommended…Dealers (once the cars are out of warranty) seem to charge an astronomical amount for even an oil change…I've paid as much as $260…what is a typical oil change costs for this high bread toy?
I'm glad for this forum...

ArgenRedM10e

 

$5k doesn't sound out of line for IMS bearing, rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, and 60k. The flywheel in particular is an expensive part - about 800 bucks if I remember correctly.

Clutch and flywheel life depend a lot on the previous owner. I bought my car with 60k miles on it and the clutch and flywheel were both shot.

The IMS bearing and rear main seal are common items to be replaced. No cause for alarm, but these are known points of failure that are best taken care of. While your mechanic has the engine out, have them replace the air-oil separator. It is on the transmission side of the engine and isn't an expensive part, but they do fail periodically and require a great deal of labor if done separately.

Sooner or later you'll want a new water pump (get one with a composite impeller) and a low temp (160 degree) thermostat. Good cooling is very important to these cars. It's not a bad idea to flush the coolant when you replace the water pump.

The engine uses almost 10 quarts of synthetic oil, so oil+filter+labor charge is likely to run you a couple hundred bucks. DIY can save you a lot on oil changes, if you're so inclined.

There is an incredible amount of information (and a little hysteria) in these forums. Read up and you can learn a lot.

Welcome to the slippery slope :-)