First time oil change
First time oil change
I just finished the oil change for the first time. I bought a cartridge from my local Porsche dealer, and an STP cartridge as well to compare the two. They appear identical, same pleat depth and pitch. However, the filter I removed has very different flanges than either of these two new ones. Refer to pic.
The on the left has a much bigger aperture than the one from Porsche. The flange on the left (after it has been cut off for the inspection for metal shavings) is the one I took off and has a rubbers seal on the ID of the aperture, and fits nicely over the nipple. The one on the right is much smaller, and I couldn't get it over the nipple. I tried to use the canister to help force the filter flange over the nipple, but I couldn't get the screw started. I had to score the inside of the paper to get it started.
Is this normal?
The on the left has a much bigger aperture than the one from Porsche. The flange on the left (after it has been cut off for the inspection for metal shavings) is the one I took off and has a rubbers seal on the ID of the aperture, and fits nicely over the nipple. The one on the right is much smaller, and I couldn't get it over the nipple. I tried to use the canister to help force the filter flange over the nipple, but I couldn't get the screw started. I had to score the inside of the paper to get it started.
Is this normal?
the filter should slide and lock onto the post easily with a little push. if it doesn't, don't use it.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
the filter should slide and lock onto the post easily with a little push. if it doesn't, don't use it.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
the filter should slide and lock onto the post easily with a little push. if it doesn't, don't use it.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
STP and Fram are cheaply made. If the top and rubber part of the filter are not sealing to the post, the filter becomes useless.
IMO, use only german made parts or try WIX.
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No rubber in the stock filter. He's talking about the aftermarket filters.
It's just a paper filter, paper on the top and bottom, paper in the middle. The hole in the filter fits snugly over the tube, it doesn't float around at all.
Then there is an o-ring that goes on the filter housing. That's all there is to it.
It's just a paper filter, paper on the top and bottom, paper in the middle. The hole in the filter fits snugly over the tube, it doesn't float around at all.
Then there is an o-ring that goes on the filter housing. That's all there is to it.
Good luck.
Thanks all. This was very helpful After visiting a couple of local parts stores, I found that the one I took off - left - is a Wix filter. I compared the numbers. I also went to NAPA, and it was identical to the Wix. Even the part number, except for one digit, we're the same.
Depends on how quick you are. I would have a quart on hand. Hopefully, you would lose less than that. FYI, your instrument panel oil indicator should help. Keep in mind that the difference between the High mark and the Low mark is 1.5 quarts. Good luck.
Last edited by rrrruben; Jan 15, 2012 at 02:26 PM.




