Engine ticking following an oil change
I changed the oil in my 99 C4 996 (40k with its 2nd engine) and it now has a tick on idle when warm. I used 5W40 Shell Helix Ultra Fully Synthetic
I've researched it and it appears to be a sticky lifter. Whats the best way of sorting this short of ripping the lump out? will another change of oil with a different grade help? - if so which grade would anyone recommend? |
You didn't have it before but do now? It's the oil or oil level. Check your level and - here comes the flaming - go back to 0/40 Mobile 1.
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Originally Posted by denversteve
(Post 3526414)
You didn't have it before but do now? It's the oil or oil level. Check your level and - here comes the flaming - go back to 0/40 Mobile 1.
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0w40 should quieten it down nicely.
There are two main schools of thinking around oils for the 996: 0w40 and 5w40 (and then another group wanting to return to earlier brews with more metals in them). I have experienced this in a non porsche (Alfa) engine, and the 0 weight oil made a big difference - it got rid of the rattle. Worst 3 days of owning that car... |
Flaming incoming: And, if you go back to the 0W-40, you will virtually always have new oil due to having to add a quart every time you go a couple blocks. And with all the burning, smoking and blow by, you'll be saving the environment too.
How's that? HA. |
Just teasing...did I get you guys a little fired up? It is worth a try to see what happens.
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before i drop the oil i'm just going to try a few other things first. I have been told that i should check the spark plugs are tight and also fire up the car with no aux belt attached for a few seconds too see if its an aux tensioner.
The ticking isnt always there when warm. Would a sticking lifter effect performance? - because the car runs 100% out of interest, what is the price of oil in the US? Mobil 1 is about £50 for 5 litres over here (approx $77 a gallon) |
$6.50 USD per quart / so, $26 for a gallon. You get that Euro socialism tax...HA. I think the oil you used is good. Have you driven it hard yet and brought the oil up to temp?
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wow, Its a rip off over here! - i've given the car a good hard run over 100 miles today but still no difference.
Just hoping its not serious as it was supposed to be going up for sale this weekend. |
Originally Posted by Parkcity911
(Post 3527314)
Flaming incoming: And, if you go back to the 0W-40, you will virtually always have new oil due to having to add a quart every time you go a couple blocks. And with all the burning, smoking and blow by, you'll be saving the environment too. How's that? HA.
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Castrol Edge 0W40 may be a better cost option for the UK, I am a fan. 5 litres £44.99 inc VAT
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I agree with Castrol. Although from all I've read you should go 5W-40. See LN Engineering and Flat 6 Innovations sites. If you don't use any oil, I'm sure 0W-40 is acceptable. Motul is made in Germany and may be cheaper for you. I know it is highly regarded here in the States. Good luck and keep us posted!
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Don't use the Castrol Syntec or Edge.... By far the most underwhelming synthetic oil on paper made by any well known oil company. You're much better off with the Shell, Motul or Mobil 1.
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What is the best Shell? Euro or Plat? What do they call it so I know....thanks!
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Originally Posted by Parkcity911
(Post 3527980)
What is the best Shell? Euro or Plat? What do they call it so I know....thanks!
The Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 is actually Pennzoil Ultra European Formula 5W-40 here, it is the highest quality oil SOPUS makes. There is a Pennzoil Platinum European Formula 5W-40 too, not as good as the Ultra but still a great oil but very hard to find for the most part. We simply don't have access to the Shell Helix brand name here. |
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