996 C2 1998 Australia (RHD)

Does anyone have experience in overcoming initial stickiness of the throttle (accelerator) ?
Have read posts by Van and MJBIRD993 (thankyou gentlemen)

Sticky throttle is not crucial but annoying...
Only apparent from the closed throttle position...ie, on initial application of foot pressure when taking off.. feels like stick-slip. Also seems to cause high idle say 1500rpm occasionally when hot and, fluctuations where the engine is attempting to return to idle after stopping.

Cruise control is operational and OK.
Throttle body is clean & operates well. Spring return is OK.

Have dismantled the accelerator box on the floor, cleaned and lubricated the components (which were clean and lubed anyway). While off, lubricated the lower end of the cable.
No improvement.

Being a motorcyclist of old, I suspect the cable is dry.

Q`s;
Where does the cable run ?... I cant see it under the footwell. Are there pics diagrams of the run ? Where can I get cable access ?

Any input gratefully received
cheers, Rupert

 

As another (ex) motorcyclist of old my solution was to just replace the cable. While I tried all kinds of tricks/lubes to resurrect a sticky cable the problem was the cable was just worn out and no amount of lube was going to help.

Be sure the idle issue is not due to a dirty/malfunctioning Idle Air Control Valve. This can get dirty, wear out, or just get flaky (sometimes intermittently) and cause idle issues.

 

As a general rule of thumb, whenever there is a "cable" involved (clutch, throttle, etc) it's best to replace the cable as you'll never be able to get the grease all the way through and beings it's not smooth indicates there is a problem. Had a sticky clutch cable once and sure enough it snapped leaving me stranded.

 

Thanks for your input Macster and FLA996TT.

Aftert 11 hours investigating the problem it turned out to be not the accelerator box, but lack of cable lubrication and surprisingly...a TB which was screwed on unevenly causing the casting to distort ..thus binding the butterfly shaft.

Solutions;

The two part cable was lubed using a motorcycle lubing adapter and a pressure (lever type) oil gun.... at the front then, the rear.
Yes FLA996TT, the oil penetrated all the way through. It pushed out dirt and eventually became clean when issuing from the end(s).

Took a long time to find the second problem, the throttle body situation. It was interesting. Can only magine a previous owner when fitting an IPD plenum, did`nt care about his/her torques on the 4 screws.
I removed the TB, made sure it was clean under the flange, put the loctited bolts back in, & pulled them up carefully so as the TB flange nipped the plenum O-ring seal evenly. Again, being a motorcyclist of old ...was tempted to drill and wire the securing bolts but instead am relying on the serviceable loctite. Will keep a watch.

Found the cable halfway box made of black plastic, up and just forward of the RHS rear wheel. It was sitting a little askew. ie, not co-axial with the cable in and cable out. Apparently dueto the plastic moving with age/heat, and, a missing fastening cable clip directly above, causing a slightly maligned exit.

The throttle now operates smooth a silk.

thanks again to contributors.
Rupert

 

More than once I managed to get lube all the way through the cable. One "trick" was to put a funnel over the cable and seal the funnel to the cable with tape and fill the funnel with oil suspend the cable so it hung straight down and let the oil slowly work its way through to be caught be a drain pan on the garage floor.

I bought every magic cable lube offered and tried them all.

But while I managed to lube the cable the cable ended breaking anyhow generally where the cable connected to the hand throttle (or clutch or brake lever) and the carburetor (or at the clutch or at the brake).

A stiff cable is a sign the cable should be replaced.