Hoping you guys could give me your thoughts on this rig: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/4875861770.html

I'm more familiar with the 997 so not sure the things I should be looking for and considering on this 996. Has both tops and appears clean from the ad. Not sure about the price on it either.

Thanks for your help

 

From the pics the car looks to be a good example. And it has a matching color hardtop.

"not sure the things I should be looking for and considering on this 996"

My usual reply is the car is just a used car so give the car a thorough used car check out.

This starts with a visit to the cold car, so you get to hear the engine start/idle/warm up from dead cold, or what passes for dead cold in the Sacramento area.

When you go to start the engine, be sure you observe the CEL comes on when you turn the key on and then goes off after the engine fires and begins to run.

Switch off the A/C. This turns off the radiator fans so the engine will get hotter than it would with the A/C and the fans on. You test the A/C and heater/defroster function later.

Let the engine idle while you get out and walk around the car, opening trunk and engine compartment lid and leaving the engine compartment lid open while the engine runs. You want to listen to the engine from dead cold to nearly fully warm, say 10 minutes worth of idling. Look at the body panel finish at an oblique angle. Look at the body panel gaps for signs of unevenness. But always keep an ear tuned to the engine.

Then have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. After this then you take the car out as the driver and cover the same route and drive the car the same way.

Use the car as you intend to use it, within reason of course, and give the car/engine every chance to show its true colors.

The test ride and drive is intended to uncover any steering, suspension, braking, or shifting issues, along with any engine issues.

Afterwards if you still like the car give it a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you confirm it does work. This ranges from headlights to horn. From wipers to top. From front trunk lid latch to spoiler. From. From.... well, you get the idea.

After the test ride, test drive, used car checkout if you still like the car, believe you can buy the car for an agreeable sum of money arrange to have a PPI done.

Among other things this gets the car on a lift where the tech can inspect the car very carefully for any signs of leaks, or other issues. He should be able to read the DME over rev counters and the engine run time stamps when the last events occurred and the total engine run time, and if he sees anything disturbing he should go over this with you.

There is I'm sure you've heard/read about and that is the good old, or should I say bad old IMSB. What you do or do not do with this is between you and your trusted tech where you will have the car serviced should you buy it.

 

This is not truly an enthusiast IMO as he spelled "breaks" wrong and only put 35k since 2002. I wonder what other stuff has been neglected.

But seriously, some peeps think they can hold off maintenance just because it has low mileage. Ask for any paperwork done on the car and try to negotiate based on age related items like rubber parts and such.

Also try to determine if those 35k miles had any track time or daily stop and go short trips on them.

Ask owner about oil change intervals. I've seen some low mileage cars like that, that has literally only had 2-3 oil changes throughout the course of its life. Otherwise get PPI and go from there.

As for price, if it is truly in excellent condition, it's a fair price considering the mileage and your location. Mid 20's IMO would be considered a good deal.

Good luck

 

I appreciate your thorough responses. Such a good forum - Thank You.