ODBII / Suncoast headers
Originally posted by deputydog95
THe only reason I say your HP reading might be a little high, is that your numbers translate into about 317 crank HP. That's about the same as a 3.6 liter and you're running a 3.4. Maybe the software has a plus/minus error of around 20. Either way it's pretty close. My stock 3.6 dyno'd at about 273 to the wheels on a dynojoet.
Do you have any other mods (ECU, etc)?
I'm still having issues with my connector. I tried someone else's obd scanner and it worked fine. I still have to wiggle mine around to make it connect.
When you get all the correct inputs for the speedtracer software, can you post them up? There's around 20 of us that bought the software so I'm sure people are going to start looking for this info.
THe only reason I say your HP reading might be a little high, is that your numbers translate into about 317 crank HP. That's about the same as a 3.6 liter and you're running a 3.4. Maybe the software has a plus/minus error of around 20. Either way it's pretty close. My stock 3.6 dyno'd at about 273 to the wheels on a dynojoet.
Do you have any other mods (ECU, etc)?
I'm still having issues with my connector. I tried someone else's obd scanner and it worked fine. I still have to wiggle mine around to make it connect.
When you get all the correct inputs for the speedtracer software, can you post them up? There's around 20 of us that bought the software so I'm sure people are going to start looking for this info.
I will get readings with the correct parameters after I get the post install data with the "wrong" parameters for comparison sake.
Was the other scanner the same brand? If so, I'd see about getting yours replaced.
Originally posted by Miykl
I have Fabspeed catbacks and my air box has been modified to be exactly like the Fabspeed airbox (w/o buying their kit) and running a K&N. Otherwise, all stock.
I will get readings with the correct parameters after I get the post install data with the "wrong" parameters for comparison sake.
Was the other scanner the same brand? If so, I'd see about getting yours replaced.
I have Fabspeed catbacks and my air box has been modified to be exactly like the Fabspeed airbox (w/o buying their kit) and running a K&N. Otherwise, all stock.
I will get readings with the correct parameters after I get the post install data with the "wrong" parameters for comparison sake.
Was the other scanner the same brand? If so, I'd see about getting yours replaced.
Your comparision readings may be a little skewed since you replaced you old spark plugs with new ones.
Originally posted by 1999Porsche911
Your comparision readings may be a little skewed since you replaced you old spark plugs with new ones.
Your comparision readings may be a little skewed since you replaced you old spark plugs with new ones.
Im having major OBD plug issues. The plug stays in but the connection just doesnt stay. I have to press it in firmly and gently release and hope i dont hear the input disconnect tone from my laptop. Ideas for a fix anyone?
Originally posted by C4S ESQ
Im having major OBD plug issues. The plug stays in but the connection just doesnt stay. I have to press it in firmly and gently release and hope i dont hear the input disconnect tone from my laptop. Ideas for a fix anyone?
Im having major OBD plug issues. The plug stays in but the connection just doesnt stay. I have to press it in firmly and gently release and hope i dont hear the input disconnect tone from my laptop. Ideas for a fix anyone?
The connector just doesn't seem to seat fully in the Porsche no matter what I try....seems they used a slightly different shape.....like the rest of the electronics (nav , bose, etc) in this car... it sucks.
i talked to jay at AE today. he said you gotta really force it in. he said the porsche receptors are unusally snug.
just like carlos said, you need to hear it "click" in.
jay recommends pulling the receptor out of the dash so it hangs. that way you can really press the two pieces together with both hands. he said he usally does this on all his customer cars so you can get a firmer fit.
his buddy owns vivid racing and they use it on his 996 all the time.
apparently the key is a really snug fit and listen for the "click". then you'll know it's seated.
anybody know how to get that receptor out of there? i won't be home till 7 tonight so i can't experiment yet. i felt up behind it and it doesn't appear to be held in by much.
just like carlos said, you need to hear it "click" in.
jay recommends pulling the receptor out of the dash so it hangs. that way you can really press the two pieces together with both hands. he said he usally does this on all his customer cars so you can get a firmer fit.
his buddy owns vivid racing and they use it on his 996 all the time.
apparently the key is a really snug fit and listen for the "click". then you'll know it's seated.
anybody know how to get that receptor out of there? i won't be home till 7 tonight so i can't experiment yet. i felt up behind it and it doesn't appear to be held in by much.
i think it's held on by a couple of screws.
Originally posted by deputydog95
i talked to jay at AE today. he said you gotta really force it in. he said the porsche receptors are unusally snug.
just like carlos said, you need to hear it "click" in.
jay recommends pulling the receptor out of the dash so it hangs. that way you can really press the two pieces together with both hands. he said he usally does this on all his customer cars so you can get a firmer fit.
his buddy owns vivid racing and they use it on his 996 all the time.
apparently the key is a really snug fit and listen for the "click". then you'll know it's seated.
anybody know how to get that receptor out of there? i won't be home till 7 tonight so i can't experiment yet. i felt up behind it and it doesn't appear to be held in by much.
i talked to jay at AE today. he said you gotta really force it in. he said the porsche receptors are unusally snug.
just like carlos said, you need to hear it "click" in.
jay recommends pulling the receptor out of the dash so it hangs. that way you can really press the two pieces together with both hands. he said he usally does this on all his customer cars so you can get a firmer fit.
his buddy owns vivid racing and they use it on his 996 all the time.
apparently the key is a really snug fit and listen for the "click". then you'll know it's seated.
anybody know how to get that receptor out of there? i won't be home till 7 tonight so i can't experiment yet. i felt up behind it and it doesn't appear to be held in by much.
Originally posted by Kevin D
So Miykl, how is the installation of the second header goin' ? Can't wait to see your results !
So Miykl, how is the installation of the second header goin' ? Can't wait to see your results !
Originally Posted by C4S ESQ
the 1. drag coefficient, and 2. frontal area other turbo/c4s front end owners are using, and to confirm 3. gear ratio is 5.1263.
thanks!
thanks!
1. Cd 996 -> 0.30, Cd 996 turbo -> 0.31, Cd gt2 -> 0.34 so you should probaly go with 0.305 since you don't have a turbo wing, i'm just guessing.
2. ~2 square metres (i got 1.830 x 1.295 mm=2.36985m2 but this is just multipying width and height)
3. as posted above but here it is again





