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2001 Window Issue - replace microswitches

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Old Sep 17, 2017 | 11:08 AM
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2001 Window Issue - replace microswitches

My 01' window is acting odd. At first, it wouldn't drop when existing or entering the car. So I replaced the micro switches (interior and exterior door handles). Now the window does indeed drop (from either entry point), but it won't go back up. Additionally the window only goes up 3 inches at a time. Any ideas?
 
Old Sep 17, 2017 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Willard13
My 01' window is acting odd. At first, it wouldn't drop when existing or entering the car. So I replaced the micro switches (interior and exterior door handles). Now the window does indeed drop (from either entry point), but it won't go back up. Additionally the window only goes up 3 inches at a time. Any ideas?
Not going back up when the door is closed suggests the door latch switch is bad.

The going up only 3 inches at a time suggests a possible problem with the door lock controller which is a rather large alum/plastic enclosure that contains the hardware (electronics) that controls the window action depending upon the signal from the various switches.

Less likely there is a problem with the window regulator. These can wear out over time.

Something you have to consider: Was there any evidence of water in the door when you had the door apart to replace the switches?
 
Old Sep 17, 2017 | 12:37 PM
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How hard is it to fix? I'm new to porsche (lots of old BMWs). Good place for parts?
 
Old Sep 18, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Willard13
How hard is it to fix? I'm new to porsche (lots of old BMWs). Good place for parts?
The hard part is identifying the source of the problem. When my Boxster passenger window would fail to drop when the door handle was pulled or worse drop then later after the door was open go back up again, and when the door lock active LED on the dash would light on its own the tech checked the various switches and found them ok but found the door lock controller bad and replaced this.

The act of replacement is not hard. Disconnect the battery. Give the electrical system time to lose any residual electrical power. Always be careful around airbags.

Remove the door card and remove the suspected bad part/switch/controller and install the new one and reverse the process.

I had the door apart on my Boxster once. I had the factory manual to go by when removing the door card. (The door membrane was leaking.)

For the 996 I'm sure there are DIY write ups on how to replace door hardware. Do a google search and see what turns up. Read a number of the write ups until you feel comfortable tackling the job or if you think it beyond your abilities have the work done at a shop.

With over 315K miles on my Boxster just about everything in the door -- door lock controller, door switches, window regulator, door membrane -- have worn out or failed due to age and have had to be replaced and I have this done at the local dealer. The cost is not that *high*. Labor is just an hour or two but unfortunately some of the parts can be expensive. The door lock controller was several hundred dollars.
 
Old Jan 3, 2018 | 01:43 PM
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Today I replaced the door lock mechanism, as I had replaced both handle microswitches (outer and inner). no change in behavior. The window only goes up 4 inches at a time and won't return once the door is shut. either handle opening causes the window to drop...3 inches.

One odd behavior to note, the door locks from the key is no longer working. new from dealer 6 months ago. Additionally I played with the dash door lock switch and the window worked perfectly. Thinking I had synchronized the door somehow, I turned off the ignition and now it's like before. ugh!

Are there any other microswitches besides the handle (inner and outer) and door mechanism? Reset switch? lock system?
 
Old Jan 9, 2018 | 02:28 PM
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Have you replaced the regulator?
Just replaced the drivers side on my 996 and my brother-in-laws. One made by Porsche version 4 and the other is by URO.
Motor struggled to raise the window, and would not lower it most of the time. The cable stretches over time. Could hear a grinding noise when going up.

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-996-542-075/dp/B00STAM8WQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00STAM8WQ&pd_rd_r=HZBP2V56WAX8RBQ7NSX5&pd_rd_w=ez5oR&pd_rd_wg=G2u2V&psc=1&refRID=HZBP2V56WAX8RBQ7NSX5 https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-996-542-075/dp/B00STAM8WQ/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00STAM8WQ&pd_rd_r=HZBP2V56WAX8RBQ7NSX5&pd_rd_w=ez5oR&pd_rd_wg=G2u2V&psc=1&refRID=HZBP2V56WAX8RBQ7NSX5
 
Old Jan 25, 2018 | 03:30 PM
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I've had both problems.

The window regulator was bad and prevented the window from sealing correctly and made the window close and open very slowly.

On one side of the car the micro-switches associated with locking failed and the door locks would work inconsistently on the driver side of the car.
On the other side of the car the micro-switches associated with window drop and door latch status were failing so the car would inconsistently drop and reseal the window and also not blip the indicators twice after locking, indicating it didn't know if the door was actually closed.

The job is a pain and expect to beat up your hands fishing the actuator in and out of the door and getting the lock cylinder insert to seat in the new actuator the right way. A second set of eyes helps and occasionally another hand to hold the handle while you finagle the actuator.
 



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