For Bilstein PSS10 Owners: Did You Corner Weight Balance Your Car After the Change?
For Bilstein PSS10 Owners: Did You Corner Weight Balance Your Car After the Change?
My car's stock suspension is being changed to Bilstein PSS10 and the ride height will be dropped 1 inch. In a few months, I plan to add after-market rear toe & upper control arm links, etc.
I've done my search and read up on the topic, but still have questions please. Thanks in advance.
1. Is corner balance considered a must after a change in coillover and ride height?
2. Since I am going to do some more mods to the suspension (toe link, dog bones) in a few months, should I hold off on the corner weight balance until then? In other words, does adding toe link, dog bones, etc. require that corner balance be repeated?
I've done my search and read up on the topic, but still have questions please. Thanks in advance.
1. Is corner balance considered a must after a change in coillover and ride height?
2. Since I am going to do some more mods to the suspension (toe link, dog bones) in a few months, should I hold off on the corner weight balance until then? In other words, does adding toe link, dog bones, etc. require that corner balance be repeated?
If you are tracking the car, then absolutely. For a street only car, then I don't see the value in corner balancing the car. If you are going to do more suspension mods in the future, then you should do a corner balance then also if you are tracking the car. If you don't have an event between doing the mods, then you can wait to do the corner balance until the final mods are done.
Your suspension mods seem like you're gearing up for track use.. Might as well do the corner balancing after all your suspension/alignment mods are done. Like what IA said, a corner balancing is not necessary for street use. I used to think that an alignment and corner balancing are needed once the car is lowered, not really so for the latter on street driving.. i will do it only when im ready for track..
my specs after musch suspension work, including the damptronics:
incl car@ 3486# / 190# driver / 1/2 tank fuel / total wt 3676#:
front (L/R): 759# / 710#
Rear: 1136# /1069#
at ride ht: front 105mm / rear 130MM (997gt2 is f: 108+/-2, R 133+/-2)
Alignement: front camber -2.3
Toe: -.05 ea side
Rear: Camber -2.0
toe 0.15 ea side






car is a weapon!! further evaluation asap
incl car@ 3486# / 190# driver / 1/2 tank fuel / total wt 3676#:
front (L/R): 759# / 710#
Rear: 1136# /1069#
at ride ht: front 105mm / rear 130MM (997gt2 is f: 108+/-2, R 133+/-2)
Alignement: front camber -2.3
Toe: -.05 ea side
Rear: Camber -2.0
toe 0.15 ea side






car is a weapon!! further evaluation asap
If I may chime in here, I just had PSS10s and H&R sways done this week. I am 99% street driver with maybe 1 track day a year at most. But, since I have the conversion from AWD to RWD with front drive components removed, does this change your guys' opinions on needing a corner balance?
thanks
thanks
Trending Topics
Are the PSS10 damptronics are the dampeners manually adjustable or do you just have two pre-set settings that are switched with the PASM button?
they are only 2 positions, sprot setting "on" or "off". you could change the valving internally if yu needed to change the dampening rates, but obviouly a lot of work. My car builder dyno'd the shock, and said that it wasn't too bad, and could handle a heavier spring if necessary
they are only 2 positions, sprot setting "on" or "off". you could change the valving internally if yu needed to change the dampening rates, but obviouly a lot of work. My car builder dyno'd the shock, and said that it wasn't too bad, and could handle a heavier spring if necessary
I corner balanced because my tech didn't charge me for it. Otherwise I wouldn't do it for the cost/gain factor for street use. There are obviously two school of thought on this and if you think you will track then most will opt for the corner balance. If you know you are going to then it would be recommended.
For the 997 Turbo's with PASM then there are not too many options besides Sport and Non-Sport. The 996 with PSS10's is not dynamic like the 997 PASM system would be. You can get a dialed in system for the 996 without PASM that can be adjusted inside the car as well that has a Sport/Non-Sport setting.
PSS10's are manually adjustable. That is why on the 997 Turbos or PASM cars they are called Bilstein PSS Damptronics without any numbering. Since the PASM controls the settings internally.
I myself would have liked to manually adjusted mine if I could have had someone shut off PASM warning and installed a set of KWV3's.
For the 997 Turbo's with PASM then there are not too many options besides Sport and Non-Sport. The 996 with PSS10's is not dynamic like the 997 PASM system would be. You can get a dialed in system for the 996 without PASM that can be adjusted inside the car as well that has a Sport/Non-Sport setting.
PSS10's are manually adjustable. That is why on the 997 Turbos or PASM cars they are called Bilstein PSS Damptronics without any numbering. Since the PASM controls the settings internally.
I myself would have liked to manually adjusted mine if I could have had someone shut off PASM warning and installed a set of KWV3's.
So far ( no track days yet) car is extremely planted and communicative. I've driven about 200mi, and think that my corner speed would be likely be above my RS!!! In any case the cars cornering capability is not even in the same realm as stock. I'm sure alot of this is due to the alignment, as well as lowering the roll center, and stiffening. The feel thru the wheel is totally different than stock (in a good way). you can feel the front tires biting (camber) the asphalt, no vagueness. That being said, the turbo suspension is obvoiusly way above my stock RS, almost full race, except for the dampers.
Taking both the Turbo & RS to an autocross this weekend to start the evaluation. Last time the RS spanked the turbo.
My lap times at NHIS are also typically much faster in the RS.
Taking both the Turbo & RS to an autocross this weekend to start the evaluation. Last time the RS spanked the turbo.
My lap times at NHIS are also typically much faster in the RS.
take a look at the pics or search my thread on 997tt suspension part 1, a few weeks ago: Motorsport control arms, custom arm ends, custom shock hats, erp control arms, erp solid bushings everywhere, etc
Hi Bob,
Your experience with suspension mods is obvious; I am glad you are participating in this thread.
I have 3 questions please, TIA:
1. Ride height: How much of the drop from stock are your settings of 105/130? (What are stock Turbo ride heights?)
2. I don't track my car and was going to use camber of -1.2 front, -1.6 rear. Any disadvantage with more negative cambers, outside of tire wear?
3. I looked at your original post, http://69.13.120.185/forums/showthre...31#post1862631 , you are not changing the stock anti-roll bars?
Your experience with suspension mods is obvious; I am glad you are participating in this thread.
I have 3 questions please, TIA:1. Ride height: How much of the drop from stock are your settings of 105/130? (What are stock Turbo ride heights?)
2. I don't track my car and was going to use camber of -1.2 front, -1.6 rear. Any disadvantage with more negative cambers, outside of tire wear?
3. I looked at your original post, http://69.13.120.185/forums/showthre...31#post1862631 , you are not changing the stock anti-roll bars?
my specs after musch suspension work, including the damptronics:
incl car@ 3486# / 190# driver / 1/2 tank fuel / total wt 3676#:
front (L/R): 759# / 710#
Rear: 1136# /1069#
at ride ht: front 105mm / rear 130MM (997gt2 is f: 108+/-2, R 133+/-2)
Alignement: front camber -2.3
Toe: -.05 ea side
Rear: Camber -2.0
toe 0.15 ea side
car is a weapon!! further evaluation asap
incl car@ 3486# / 190# driver / 1/2 tank fuel / total wt 3676#:
front (L/R): 759# / 710#
Rear: 1136# /1069#
at ride ht: front 105mm / rear 130MM (997gt2 is f: 108+/-2, R 133+/-2)
Alignement: front camber -2.3
Toe: -.05 ea side
Rear: Camber -2.0
toe 0.15 ea side
car is a weapon!! further evaluation asap
sorry we did not measure stoick ride ht. before dissassembly, shame shame
As installed damptronics was 120 front/ 155 rear, but that data is likely also no good as we dissassembled the dampers to install the hats ( what a disgrace
). so just call that our starting point, ( not useful info) We then set it to GT2 ht. as a 1st attempt.
No sway bar changes at this time. car corners VERY flat at any (barely) reasonable public road loading.
Car transmits probably too much for some people, and certainly on rough roads. On anything reasonable though, even for N.E. reasonable, car is a weapon. Not a 500 mi. cruiser though.
I am sure that on any track even slightly open, this car will eat my GT3
, (hopefully not the cup car, we will see) but also with driving confidence / feedback that was lacking before.
As installed damptronics was 120 front/ 155 rear, but that data is likely also no good as we dissassembled the dampers to install the hats ( what a disgrace
). so just call that our starting point, ( not useful info) We then set it to GT2 ht. as a 1st attempt.No sway bar changes at this time. car corners VERY flat at any (barely) reasonable public road loading.
Car transmits probably too much for some people, and certainly on rough roads. On anything reasonable though, even for N.E. reasonable, car is a weapon. Not a 500 mi. cruiser though.
I am sure that on any track even slightly open, this car will eat my GT3
, (hopefully not the cup car, we will see) but also with driving confidence / feedback that was lacking before.





