Opinion on brakes for 997 tt
There are plenty of folks who will have great things to say about PCCBs. They offer lower unsprung weight and once warm have great stopping power.
That said, the standard brakes are superb. I run them with Pagid Yellows and replaced the brake fluid with Castrol SRF. Works great on the track and street albeit they squeak a bit when cold. The OEM rotors will eventually wear out (as will the PCCBs) and at that point can be replaced with something else. I've got 17 track days on mine and they have some cracking but I should get another 5-7 days out of them before they're toast. One can but a lot of rotors for the price of PCCBs.
That said, the standard brakes are superb. I run them with Pagid Yellows and replaced the brake fluid with Castrol SRF. Works great on the track and street albeit they squeak a bit when cold. The OEM rotors will eventually wear out (as will the PCCBs) and at that point can be replaced with something else. I've got 17 track days on mine and they have some cracking but I should get another 5-7 days out of them before they're toast. One can but a lot of rotors for the price of PCCBs.
The PCCB are great, but the replacement costs are insane if you really run the car that hard. If you are a serious track guy, go with a Brembo GTR kit which is less then a PCCB upgrade and you can make money off your stock standard brakes. The GTR kit is custom built to your needs.
Try this with your stock brakes.
1. Performance Friction front and rear pads.
2. Castrol SRF fluid.
3. Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
If you try that set up and tax them to the point of total fade at the track, consider upgrading.
If not, continue to run what I listed above.
It will be a good inexpensive way to see if you need a change.
Also remember that running your brake pads too low can boil your brake fluid early. The brake pad is also a thermal barrier. If you go too low on the pad, heat gets passed from the piston to the brake fluid. Not good...
That is why it is not uncommon for race teams to toss a set of pads with 50% of their life left.
Hope this helps.
1. Performance Friction front and rear pads.
2. Castrol SRF fluid.
3. Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
If you try that set up and tax them to the point of total fade at the track, consider upgrading.
If not, continue to run what I listed above.
It will be a good inexpensive way to see if you need a change.
Also remember that running your brake pads too low can boil your brake fluid early. The brake pad is also a thermal barrier. If you go too low on the pad, heat gets passed from the piston to the brake fluid. Not good...
That is why it is not uncommon for race teams to toss a set of pads with 50% of their life left.
Hope this helps.
Try this with your stock brakes.
1. Performance Friction front and rear pads.
2. Castrol SRF fluid.
3. Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
If you try that set up and tax them to the point of total fade at the track, consider upgrading.
If not, continue to run what I listed above.
It will be a good inexpensive way to see if you need a change.
Also remember that running your brake pads too low can boil your brake fluid early. The brake pad is also a thermal barrier. If you go too low on the pad, heat gets passed from the piston to the brake fluid. Not good...
That is why it is not uncommon for race teams to toss a set of pads with 50% of their life left.
Hope this helps.
1. Performance Friction front and rear pads.
2. Castrol SRF fluid.
3. Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines.
If you try that set up and tax them to the point of total fade at the track, consider upgrading.
If not, continue to run what I listed above.
It will be a good inexpensive way to see if you need a change.
Also remember that running your brake pads too low can boil your brake fluid early. The brake pad is also a thermal barrier. If you go too low on the pad, heat gets passed from the piston to the brake fluid. Not good...
That is why it is not uncommon for race teams to toss a set of pads with 50% of their life left.
Hope this helps.
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