997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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Going back to OEM exhaust this weekend, install tips?

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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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Going back to OEM exhaust this weekend, install tips?

I'm putting my factory stuff back on for the winter. Anything quirky about installing exhaust on turbos? I already bought new gaskets.

-Where's the best point to jack it up from?
-Where're the best places to rest it on jack stands?
-Any special way to align the tips or just eye them?
-Anything else I should look for or expect to be a pain in the ***?

Thanks, in advance.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 02:35 PM
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TT Surgeon seems to be a resident expert on exhaust installs. Maybe he'll chime in here or just throw him a PM.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by SVTHorsnake
I'm putting my factory stuff back on for the winter. Anything quirky about installing exhaust on turbos? I already bought new gaskets.

-Where's the best point to jack it up from?
-Where're the best places to rest it on jack stands?
-Any special way to align the tips or just eye them?
-Anything else I should look for or expect to be a pain in the ***?

Thanks, in advance.
WHY? are you selling it?
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:19 PM
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it's somewhat a pain. Did mine on a lift and took off the bumper for easier access. It should take you approx 3-4 hrs to take off your aftermarket exhaust and install the stock one. The most time-consuming part is getting to the cat/turbo bolts and tightening all 8 of them. Aligning the tips shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure not to tighten everything until you're absolutely sure that all is aligned well. Good luck!
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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Penetrating oil will be your friend...be careful not to break the studs...and don't forget to chase the threads before re-installing your stock exhaust.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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Thanks all. I'm not too worried about the dismount. I have straightpipes right now, 4 sensors and eight bolts to pull.

Originally Posted by 997tt RS 2.7
WHY? are you selling it?
Not selling it. I just finished building a car for the track, so I'm putting my TT mostly back to stock. I kind of miss the factory comforts of a soft ride and silent engine.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 07:11 PM
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I use a ton of wd40, two good floor jacks at the jack points in front of the wheels. once you get the stocker back up under the bumper it will stay in position. Just take your time.
c
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TT Surgeon
I use a ton of wd40, two good floor jacks at the jack points in front of the wheels. once you get the stocker back up under the bumper it will stay in position. Just take your time.
c
thank you. Can you specify any jack stand points? And where do I jack it up from? Somebody told me to jack it up from the center of the block? I'm nervous about doing that.
 
Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:32 PM
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There are two round jack points on the frame in front of each raer wheel, kinda hockey puck shaped, they are marked with a triangle on the side skirt. i have used the engine many times as a jack point, no problem as long as you put something like a wooden block or rag in btwn.
Also, get some 13mm shorty hand ratchets, they come in very handy.
 
Old Oct 8, 2009 | 03:36 PM
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Thanks. I'll keep that all in mind.

Also, I have straight pipes right now, so I'll have to have the ECU reset to clear the codes it's thrown. Should I also clean the 02 sensors with anything before I put them back in?
 
Old Oct 8, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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No, don't mess with the o2 sensors, the ECU should reset itself in 30 miles, or you can buy a cheap scanner that can also clear the codes (60$ sears).
GL
 
Old Oct 9, 2009 | 07:53 PM
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no one on this forum knows more about this stuff than TT Surgeon...heed his advice wisely!
 
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:27 AM
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what a royal pain in the ***. Never had such a hard time getting an exhaust in. Anyways, it's in but not resolved. Encountered the following problems:

-Stripped the bolt going into the turbo, driverside turbo, top driverside hole. It looks to me as if the nut stopped turning before the end of the stud, and I kept trying because it looked loose, don't know how to resolve this, am thinking a not and bolt
-Went to mount the first tip, sheered the bolt before it was even grabbing the muffler. I don't know why there's even resistance in it if the tip was completely loose and there was a .125" gap in the slit
-couldn't tighen the straps, I lost my allen wrench set.

I felt like a complete fool looking at my car half ****ed in the air straps hanging. Then I notice I jacked it up too high and my front lip was pressed against my garage floor. I hung my head in defeat and had some beer.

/weekend fail.
 
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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that said, thanks for all the advice. It jacked up very nicely from the crankcase. my jackstands were to big to get under the jack points so I put them where the control arms mount to the rear k member. Other than all the **** I listed above, went alright.
 
Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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oh, and one more thing, the tech who installed my straight pipes put the 02s in differently on either side, so I didn't know which were pre and post cat. Given the extra insulation and longer wire, I assumed the blue ones were pre cat, and black post cat. Is this right?
 


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